Installing ARP wheel studs
 

I installed ARP wheel studs for 2 reasons. I wanted a longer stud to ingage more of the lug nut, and I had a lug nut strip out. :mad:

These pictures here are of the front.

First remove the wheel, brake pads, caliper, and the unit bearing. The unit bearing has 4 bolts holding it on. You get to them from behind.

Once the unit bearing is out. You can use a punch, I used a brass one. I put the unit bearing in a vise, and beat the old studs out. 4 or 5 good hits and they're out.

You don't need a press to put the new studs in. But you can if you want to. I've been doing this since the late '70's so. Now I start with the first stud and beat it in. MAKE sure that it is seated flush on the flange. Then do the rest. After you are done with all 5 studs. Double check that all 5 studs are flush.

Note: I marked the unit bearing on top so I know how it goes back on.

Now install the unit bearing. Followed by the rotor, caliper, brake pads, and wheel. This is it for the front. It took me about 2 hours to do one side.

Next is the rear.

Remove the wheel. Put the E-brake on and put the Z in gear. Remove the cotter key from the axle shaft. Remove the locking piece for the nut. Now use a 32mm socket with a breaker bar, I used an air gun. To remove the axle nut.

Next, Relaese the E-brake, and take the Z out of gear. Remove the brake pads, caliper, and rotor. Remove the E-brake shoes.

Next up is the unit bearing. There is 4, 17mm bolts holding it on from behind. It's tight back there with the CV joint. You can't use a 1/2" drive 17mm socket because of the wall thickness. I used a 3/8" drive 17mm socket with an adapter on a 1/2" drive racket. Worked like a charm. :tup:

Note: I marked the unit bearings on top so I how how it goes back on.

Now to remove and install the new wheel studs. It's just like doing the front. :tup:

Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way.

** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible.

Once the studs are installed in the unit bearing. Time to put everything back together. Install the unit bearing,

Install the E-brake shoes, and rotor. When doing this part. You have to adjust the E-brakes for proper adjustment.

Install the caliper, brake pads.

Put the Z in gear, and put the E-brake on. Install the axle nut and torque to spec. Install the locking piece, and cotter key.

Install the wheel. And you're done. It took me about 2 hours per wheel to do this. So that's about 8 hours total. That's with taking breaks to check on GF who had foot surgery.

I tried that. It didn't work. Not enough room. The ARP studs are 3" long.

Good work bro thanks for the knowledge.

Now about the lug nuts. I wanted to use open ended lug nuts. So I cut the top off a lug nut that I was using. Comparing that to a Z1 open ended lug nut that I got with the ARP studs. I thought that the lug nut that I cut off would have more threads in it. I was wrong. Comparing the two. There is only about 3~4 threads differance between the two. So it would be easier to just buy the open ended lug nuts then to cut the tops off of the closed top ones.

wow... baller golden studs and cutting tops off of lug nuts. :tup:

LOL I only cut the one off to see. I'm using the open ended ones from Z1. :tup:

:tup:

yeah ARP's are 25mm longer than stock. You maybe be able to squeeze in a 20mm without pulling the hub in the rear. Nice breaker bar though, I actually had to pull out the suspension arms and axle to get my straight breaker bar to work. One thing I noticed is you NEVER want to let your caliper hang by the line. Get some bungee cables to hang them up.

Edit: Also dont forget to torque to specs. Hub bolts are 65 and axle nut is 133

I used Zip ties when I did mine, and there is no way you would be able to fit anything larger than what comes with the 15mm spacer in the front, even that had to be tapped in to get it to slide into the hole.

thanks buddy! I need to do the exact same thing over the weekends!

I took the pictures before I put the bungee cord on. ;) I forgot to include the torque specs. Thanks! :tiphat: That break bar is a SnapOn flex head ratchet. :D

I had you in mind when I was posting this. ;)

I'm at this point right now and I can't seem to get the 3/8" socket to fit in the 4 bolts around the CV Joint....this is a paint. I managed to get 1 out of the 4 bolts. I think i'm gonna take a break for awhile. I also need to get a 6 pt 3/8 17mm socket (socket set). Keep you up to date. This sucks...I took off a lot of linkages and wondering if I should need to take off the whole CV Shaft from the hub.

My front's taken off but I need a vice to hammer it in or buy myself an impact driver to fasten a spacer (which i have) to pull the stud in from the front side.

need to get myself a set of 6pt socket too

I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive, 17mm socket with an 1/2"adapter, 4" extension on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once broke free. I used the 3/8", 17mm socket with a 6" long, 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet. ;)

Thanks for the help! I only have craftsman stuff and the wall thickness is not working out for me. I just picked up a 6pt 17mm 3/8 socket set (both reg & deep), i'm gonna give that a try and let you know how it goes.

So you didn't need to take out the axle? I'm seriously considering that right now. :confused:

Never took out the axle. Just removed the big nut, the 4 bolts, and slid the unit bearing off the knuckle.

Ah, so for the rear you did need to remove the big axle nut to make room around the CV drum for the 4 bolts. Hmm, I don't have an impact gun to remove the axle nut and I already removed all the OEM studs to put the car back on wheels to break the nut off.

Scratching head as to what to do.

YEA!!! LOL It's the 32mm nut I was talking about. You can put 2 studs part way in, and use a pry bar between them to hold the flange from turning. ;)

yea I may need to do that or borrow a friends air compressor for impact. But it's over 130 lb-ft so will see if it'll do the trick. Ill have to wedge some nuts on the OEM studs to give that a try tomorrow. Ill keep you updates thanks for the help!

Yay, I finally got it off and I do need to take the axle nut off with an impact after all. I cannot get access to the 4 wheel hub screws with a 3/8 17mm socket without pushing the CV Joint back a little (which meant I needed to remove the Axle nut). It was a piece of cake once I borrowed an air compressor from a friend. Looks like that'll be my next toy to get. Thanks for all the help.

Hey, no problem. :D The axle has to come off anyway to remove the unit bearing. With the nut off. you found out that you got a little more room to work with.

Thanks for this write up! I'll be making use of it shortly, after I drill out the 3 studs per side on the front wheels to get them off :shakes head:

I'm looking at the ARP studs also, but I really don't want any stud protrusion with the lugs. Do you think R40's would be deep enough that none of the stud would poke? It seems a bit ridiculous ARP doesn't make them in a shorter length.

depends on if you are using spacers or not. It may poke out a little without spacers.

Nope no spacers. The offset is +15 rear and +25 front, so I didn't need spacers anymore with the advans. Damn. Might go back to stock then, or get the nismo ones.
I guess cutting some length off the arp studs would work too.

yeah, i had to cut off the tip on one since I messed up a thread by accident. Used a dremel and some patience. Dont forget goggles.

Thanks for the info. I contacted a local shop about cutting all the studs down. Then I can get the best of both worlds, awesome studs and the length I want. (And I can leave the hubs on)

Ok, so I am just doing this today and already running into some issues. First once I exposed the hubs and took the old studs out I could see that it looks like the teeth on the hubs stripped and I will need to replace the front hubs :shakes head:

As much as that sucks, the real issue right now is that I can't for the life of me remove the wheel hubs from the car! What is the trick to getting these things out of there?

Also, are there any good aftermarket wheel hubs for our car? If I have to replace them, I might as well find something better than OEM.

Time to contribute something to this DIY:
After fighting with the wheel hubs forever trying to break them loose I decided to try something. Looking at the hub, I saw no reason to have to remove it in order to install the studs, and I remember it being super easy the first time I tried it. Sure enough, you can easily install ARP studs without removing the hubs in the front:
http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...4-studs-3.jpeg
http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...3-studs-2.jpeg
http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...52-studs1.jpeg

That is what that hole is for in the dust shield, you could install studs twice as long if you wanted.. you just pull it through, seat the stud with a nut to suck it through, then rotate and do the next, etc. I thought that's what it was like, but couldn't remember then reading this I second guessed myself.

So there you go, a lot of work saved for people doing this in the future. Now sadly this doesn't help me one bit as I need to replace the hubs anyways lol, but hopefully it will help others out!

Yup the fronts don't need to be removed, it's the rears that give you trouble. I had to remove camber arms, support brace, and axles just to take the hubs off


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Why did you have to take all that off, was it just to get the clearance to get to those 4 bolts? I thought that once the 32MM nut was off the front, and the 4 bolts were off the back, the wheel hub would slide right off the axle.. ? Also, if I do attempt it, anything else I should know, like anything I have to mark so it goes back on in the same spot, etc? Thanks!

To remove the front hubs. All you have to do is. Back the 4 bolts out about 1/4". Put a socket and extention on one bolt. Now smack the end of the extention with a hammer a few times. Move on the next bolt. The hub will pop out. ;)

For the rear hubs. Remove the axle nut. Next, remove the 4 bolts in the back of the hub. It's a tight fit in the back of the kuckle. It's best to use a 1/2" drive thin wall socket if you have one. Or use a 3/8" drive socket. ;)

If I'm reading this right. Those teeth marks in the holes are from the studs when they was installed. Once you have installed the new studs. They should be tight. If you can move a stud from side to side using hand pressure. Then you have a problem. ;)

The holes had been slightly enlarged, so the new studs would still have had some play in a couple of the holes.

the only thing I dont like about the arp studs is that they are made for sti's so they dont have the same amount of teeth as our stock studs do. You just have to wedge them in making new teeth marks in the hub holes. They hold fine, its just not a good feeling.

True, although with new front hubs the only marks will be from the ARP studs so I'm sure it will be ok. I'll watch for that on the back though.