^ :tup:

Good comeback ..petit woman :icon18:

Still would like to know Nissan's reasoning behind the extra weight. Will do some inquiring with my resources. :tiphat:

Thanks for that. Its pops up much better now. I was wondering if they put the weight in there for balance! LOL..

Best 5 minute fix in a long time..

Cheers,..

The weight is 2 lb's 7 oz'z!! Crazy !!

Glad I could be of help, and I figure for 5 minutes, it's worth it

WOW... Thanks for getting the exact weight!

ok...I checked with my dealer and the weight is for throw weight on closing the hatch, remember there is hatch shock that has resistance and the weight is to close the hatch with some weight behind. Funny they said "also maybe for petite woman".

So there you have it...it's like a pendulum weight to assist with closing the hatch. If you guys are not noticing any additional force required to close the hatch after removing the weight...that's odd then.

One additional note and VERY IMPORTANT, the part is NOT covered after the 3 yr 36k mile warranty runs out. They have revised the part 5 times, as currently for ALL year models they are on part rev "E". And here is the kicker, they are bending us over big time for this non warranty part for a mere $37.77 per spring. Yup...can you say bend me over !

The bros Z 2009 with 42k and out of warranty was replaced under warranty. They are family with us and I applaud them. So go with the mod mentioned on this thread or the penny mod. But $37.77 per spring is outrageous.

Part # 84415-1EA2E Spring-Lift

Wellllllll... There is "more" resistance with closing the hatch, but I have found that the 2 pounds hinders the popping open more than the actual closing. And since the struts are probably wearing out, it'll seem like a brand new setup :tup:

And to make sure, you're talking about the SPRINGS not being covered past the 3/36k (Although an extended bumper to bumper SHOULD cover it)

And yes $37.77 is a :icon23: (bend over) price, but if a member has an issue with theirs NOT being covered, PM me, and we'll figure something out ;)

Yup springs are not covered after the 3yr/36k warranty runs out and MAY not be covered under the extended warranties. I have both extended warranties and they said under those warranties only mechanical and electrical parts are covered . The springs are not mechanical as in no moving part(s). They submitted the warranty claim to NNA (zero out of pocket for me) and will know when I have to have my 09 rev "b"part number replaced as it's starting to stick intermittantly. I will find out tomorrow as mine is going in for the notorious drivers side window creak.

Great DIY - clear explanation and good pics. Repped.

I am still a bit confused about the removal of the panel. This would probably be obvious if I were performing the procedure, but I'm not quite sure if you stick both arms in there, one on each side, and pop the whole thing off at once or one side at a time. Maybe I'm just being dense - everything else was explained very well.

I've broken way too many clips and other interior panel attachments to feel comfortable doing this myself, so I just sent a link to this thread with a request for estimate to my favorite body shop. I've spent over $20K there in the last year and figure they ought to do it pretty cheap. :)

LOL, thanks for the rep, if you have a panel tool, it's REALLY easy and quite hard to break a clip.
If you want a better walk through, give me a call or shoot me a text (310)893-4207

I appreciate the offer, :tiphat: but when the body shop does it so inexpensively*, why get my fumble fingers into the mix? :)


*for $50 they R&Red all the panels from the seats back so I could install sound damping. I'm guessing they'll want $25-50 (whatever their minimum is) for this job.

If they want $25-50 and you pay, I will cry... I might start slitting my wrists brother...
Get a panel tool and call me, if you break anything, I'll either swap you pieces or buy you a new one, LOL

This is soooo easy to do !

:rofl2:

If this were not interior panels, I would do it in a heartbeat. I pulled my Steering Lock fuse and taking a few pop-rivets out didn't bother me, but, due to past experience, I have a real phobia of messing up interior panels. Heck, I even paid the dealer to install a cabin air filter, which is supposed to be a very simple job, just because I didn't want to risk tearing up the glove box. If I let the body shop do it, I'll save $50 in tranquilizers. :p

How about this: if the body shop wants more than $50 or they don't have time to do it, I will contact you and let you walk me through it. Sound good? I have a panel tool; a metal one, but strategically placed paper/cardboard should prevent scratching the paint.

:shakes head: LOL, dammit... You can do it with a credit card if you want! LOL, or put some scotch tape on the metal panel tool!
But yeah, give me a heads up if you need any help

(I can almost understand the cabin air filter because it's easy to break the tabs, and I KNOW the back plastics are a bitch because I put a small crack in the rearmost lower panel pulling it off when i changed my tail lights, but these clips on the hatch are easy and very robust)

Did this in 15 mins tops yesterday. I love that my back hatch actually opens when I hit the button now. Thank you for this write up. To anyone thinking about doing this. Get a panel tool and follow directions. Its not that hard. Believe me its worth 15mins of your time.

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