DIY: Front Stud replacement/ Spacer install
 

While a few guys have done this, I haven't seen a DIY so here goes. Adding 15mm spacers with extended studs requires jumping through a few hoops..

First, Buy (2) M12 x 1.25 lug nuts (open style) at your local NAPA store, and a 1" spacer of some sort (Home Depot plumbing dept). In this case a 3/8ths pipe coupling seemed like it would work. These will be the tools you need for installing the new and removing the old studs without damage. :
http://images52.fotki.com/v729/photo...MG_1898-vi.jpg

Remove your caliper and Rotor (see ChrisSlicks DIY) http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ent-front.html. You can do this without the Pad removal step if you're careful and you don't have a lip built up on your rotors. This next step is assuming you want to remove the old parts undamaged in case you de-mod in the future. Otherwise just wail away with a hammer to remove them. If you like to preserve your stock parts (I do), Screw the nut on the stud:
http://images116.fotki.com/v703/phot...MG_1901-vi.jpg

Slide a larger socket over the stud and whack a few times with a hammer until the stud is free:
http://images44.fotki.com/v1535/phot...MG_1902-vi.jpg

http://images44.fotki.com/v1535/phot...MG_1903-vi.jpg

Knock all 5 out and save. The threads will be undamaged if you use this technique. Now for the install of the new studs. The cut-out in the splash shield does not provide quite enough clearance to fish the new longer studs into place without flexing the shield a bit . You can also Open this up a little with a die grinder or file and slip the new studs into the holes..All in loosely:
http://images110.fotki.com/v1538/pho...MG_1908-vi.jpg

Now, take the open ended lug nut you bought and the 1" spacer and assemble on the stud:
http://images51.fotki.com/v731/photo...MG_1906-vi.jpg

Hit with an impact gun until all studs are pulled in and firmly seated in place. This takes some muscle and probably is not doable by hand unless you can lock the hub in some fashion.. After 10 of these the lug nut will be getting a little funky which is why you bought 2! You'll want one with clean threads to hold your rotor/spacer in place when you re-mount your caliper.
http://images116.fotki.com/v709/phot...MG_1909-vi.jpg

Re-assemble Rotor and caliper, put your spacer in place making sure the centering ring is fully seated.
http://images49.fotki.com/v1511/phot...MG_1910-vi.jpg

Remount wheel and torque to spec. Drive a few miles and re-check torque just to be sure you got the studs pulled in all the way. I would do this a few times just to be safe.

Done! Rep points appreciated if you found this helpful..

Nice DIY.

I remember as a kid, how does the stud stay in place like that....lol
cool stuff

Spacers make a subtle visual difference, but contribute greatly to a muscular stance and filling out of the wheel wells. Before and after:

http://images44.fotki.com/v1535/phot...MG_1899-vi.jpg

http://images50.fotki.com/v1525/phot...MG_1911-vi.jpg

Did u do the rears as well??

Did the rears a month or so ago with the Version 2 spacers. (no stud work necessary)
It's a little more complicated on the rear if you go with the longer studs as the parking brake assembly neeeds to be moved for clearance. The V2 versions shown are simple bolt on adapters.

Pics: Front and Rear Spacers: 15mm album | Ttschwing | Fotki.com

very helpful, well done DIY. Thanks buddy.

Modshack, could you please PM me or post a link to where you got the spacers, along with the part number. Also why did you go with 15's?

Spacers from: WWW.ICHIBAUSA.COM - Hubcentric Wheel Spacers, OEM S13 5-Lug Conversion, Header, Turbo Manifold, Downpipe, Test-Pipe & More Performance Parts!

Why 15's?....They fill in the wheel wells very nicely bringing the tires almost flush to the fenders. Won't cause a problem if lowered in the future. 10 was too small, 20 too big, 15 just right IMO..

Thanks Modshack for yet another useful DIY thread!

Just a quick question.

I've asked Minicobra this before, but did you feel any addition vibrations (not matter how small) from adding the spacers?

And also, do you reckon that sand will be picked up by the edges of the bottom tyre and scratch the bottom sides of the door sill?

No problem!

Properly machined, a good set of Hubcentric spacers should introduce NO vibration into the equation. It does alter the track width and factory scrub radius a bit, but in combo with my Stillen bars feels nice and precise. More on Chassis tuning anf the effects of mods here if you're interested:
Roger Kraus Racing : Oversteer/Understeer chart

On the road pick-up issue, yes, moving the wheels out a bit does expose the rocker to a bit more throw-off. The rocker though is plastic so therefore is fairly flexible and should resist chippping more than say the hood. YOu can always put some clear protectant film on it. I haven't run these in the rain yet so I don't have any experience with what it will throw onto the car.

just a couple things to comment on Steve,
1. I was able to fit the 15mm lugs through the heat shield without trimming just by wiggling the heat shield a little bit.

2. I recommend installing 1 new stud at a time. I did all five on my first one, and the vibrations of the impact wrench buggured up the threads on the loose ones a little. Not too much, and not in an area that affected them, but I still recommend doing only one at a time.

Yeah...I was tired and impatient to get this done..Updated above! My Impact must be smoother than yours too!

May I ask why you used antiseize on the back mating surface of the rear spacer? For alignment with the hubcentric ring?

Also, were the stock studs difficult to remove? I had to change the studs on my toyota once and I really had to hammer them a lot to get them out. I was afraid I was going to damage the wheel bearing.

I've had spacers "weld" themselves to hubs before due to corrosion

A few whacks, not hard at all.

ah, makes sense. thanks.