:roflpuke2:

Anyone do this and can report actual gains? I don't want to buy $75 worth of RC flanges for a no gain mod.

I recall reading the OP did some ambient temp testing before and after ... and concluded it did indeed lower temps in the engine bay. I have Typhoon's, so getting cooler air up into the engine bay was important to me.

Did it net power gains worthy of $75 ? Who knows. It would cost roughly three times (75 dyno run, 75 do install, 75 after dyno run) as much to do a before and after dyno.

Great write up Modshack...Implemented it when I installed my Z1 oil cooler...Works great for my K&N short rams...Just wondering what did you use to fasten the flangesd to the inside of the bumper??? pop rivets??? I just drilled a hole in the flange ear and used one of the fasteners that was used to hold the blanking plate in plate...and notched the upper plastic tab ...might still have to rivet it..still alittle loose. Any how thanks for the great ideas...sorry to hear you sold your Z...Miss living in North Carolina...

Thanks!
I just used some sheet metal screws, and did have to trim as you noted.

More pics here: Fang Vents: Forced air cooling for your airbox.. album | Ttschwing | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

http://images18.fotki.com/v674/photo...MG_1884-vi.jpg

Nice write up on the vents and giving more options. I'm still getting around to cleaning my gen3 to take pics. Hopefully your set up and slow all my pm..io

What type of flanges and hose did you use, and where can they be purchased?

Where did u buy all the materials?

Great finding! I'm going to try it with just two flanges. :driving:

(4) 2.5" aluminum flanges P/N 10350-10
(6) foot Aeroduct hose P/N 05-29810

@ Pilot Supplies and Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce

From Home-Depot: (4) stainless steel clamps

So how much does this really help

I just finished up this mod and it was easy but there are a few tips i would add for rookies like me ;)

1. When I attached the flanges to the bumper I used spin nuts on the opposite side of the screw so they won't loosen after time from driving vibrations and they fit way tighter when u use the nut or spin nut to secure the bolt

2. When doing the drivers side, the heater steel lines (I think thats what they are) have a black hard plastic holder that get in the way. Take that off, from what I can see the lines dont need this they were very stable without it. When this is out there is way more room to drill ur holes for that flange. To take that piece off just take the top bolt off then use a reg screw driver to pop the black plastic holder off, it will take some patience cause its locked on top and bottom.

3. I also found it easier to attach the hoses to the flanges on the car 1st then route them where u need them to go, zip tie them up a bit so they dont get in the way of the oil cooler on pass side (fins are very sharp could cut the hose) then attach the other end of the hoses to the bumper lastly.

I havent driven the car to see the difference yet cause its winter here but from my research this mod adds a lot for the $76 I paid in materials. I hope these tips help they are only to guide the guys like me that are new at this and need a lil more help.

I live in Texas where it's always HOT!.. anyways I noticed my temps dropped alot faster after this install. After taking it up 240 degrees (oil temp) then cruising around to try and get the temps to decline could take 10 minutes, at 65 mph with 3K RPM's almost! After the install with in 2 minutes the temps would start to decline. A cooler motor makes more power especially at 240 degrees. That has to say something!

Finally got around to this, just ordered the flanges without thinking the tubing was from the same site so I will call tomorrow and add that with my order to avoid 2 shipping charges.

Finished this today ;) Actually cut off about 6 inches off each 3 foot of ducting also.