Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   DIY: Fang Vents: Forced fresh air to your airbox (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/6081-diy-fang-vents-forced-fresh-air-your-airbox.html)

MeetJoeAsian 02-09-2010 04:08 PM

any idea how much of a temperature difference this mod makes in the winter time?

And also, how does this mod compare to short tube and CAI?

Modshack 02-10-2010 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeetJoeAsian (Post 394810)
any idea how much of a temperature difference this mod makes in the winter time?

And also, how does this mod compare to short tube and CAI?

Over stock, None as the OEM boxes are sealed to the radiator wall and pull air from outside the bay. Intake Air Temps (IAT's) will run 5-10 degrees over ambient typically, while rolling. That 5-10 degrees, as measured at the MAF, is mostly a function of the airbox and MAF being inside the bay. Both a Stillen G3 and my Custom short rams run roughly the same temps based on reports here. Open element short rams though typically will run 25 degrees+ over ambient. The hose will lower that a bit, but without completely shielding the filters they're still gonna suck a lot of engine bay heat. Mine are shielded and insulated so the impact there is minimal. During very cold weather I've seen the difference from ambient go to 2-3 degrees.

jtown82 03-17-2010 12:02 AM

only thing i dont like is it looks like your sealing the ducting to the air box? making it the only way of air getting in. wont that basically make it have to suck through a straw to get air at idle and low speeds. though that doesnt seem like much but im pretty sure your hurting the performance through a good bit of the launching untill certain speeds are hit. ive seen setups like this and watched cars lose power because of that until certain speeds are pushing enough air in. have you actually had the car on a dyno with that setup? cool air is good an all. but it the engine is actually having to struggle to get the air its not helping. you need something to actually monitor air CFMs and see if its actually helping or hurting. but i could be wrong. but that happened to me and a few others on our grand prix bck when i had one. the intakes are very similiar to the Z other than only having one box.
we had places at the bottom of our front fascia perfect for ducting. but it turned out because of the length of tubing the engines were being starved of air.

Modshack 03-17-2010 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtown82 (Post 450188)
only thing i dont like is it looks like your sealing the ducting to the air box? making it the only way of air getting in. wont that basically make it have to suck through a straw to get air at idle and low speeds. though that doesnt seem like much but im pretty sure your hurting the performance through a good bit of the launching untill certain speeds are hit. ive seen setups like this and watched cars lose power because of that until certain speeds are pushing enough air in. have you actually had the car on a dyno with that setup? cool air is good an all. but it the engine is actually having to struggle to get the air its not helping. you need something to actually monitor air CFMs and see if its actually helping or hurting. but i could be wrong. .

My airboxes are not connected/sealed to the inlets. Even if they were, the flanges are no smaller than the actual pass through ports to the OEM boxes.
My experiments on another similar design (sealed) on another car showed that the flow up dual 2.5" hoses was enough to pretty much eliminate any restriction at the airbox outlet, and actually show some positive pressure on a Magnehelic gauge..

http://images50.fotki.com/v1527/phot...MG_1849-vi.jpg

bejan 03-30-2010 08:43 PM

Hey Modshack, did you get pack A or pack B for the stainless clamps on the website (Http://www.aircraftspruce.com) you provided?

+1 times as many times as I can for you by the way =]

Modshack 03-30-2010 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bejan (Post 473692)
Hey Modshack, did you get pack A or pack B for the stainless clamps on the website (Http://www.aircraftspruce.com) you provided?

+1 times as many times as I can for you by the way =]

Not sure what you mean by A or B......I used clamps I had laying around.....Just pick some up at Home Depot (Plumbing Dept) or your local hardware store. These are just standard stainless worm clamps. Be sure they'll handle 2.75" diameter...

bejan 03-31-2010 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack (Post 473747)
Not sure what you mean by A or B......I used clamps I had laying around.....Just pick some up at Home Depot (Plumbing Dept) or your local hardware store. These are just standard stainless worm clamps. Be sure they'll handle 2.75" diameter...

Perfect, Thanks!! :tup:

kevin1985912 04-05-2010 03:15 PM

is there a chance for the water to get into the filters when it rains?

Modshack 04-05-2010 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin1985912 (Post 482133)
is there a chance for the water to get into the filters when it rains?

No...The airspeed is not fast enough to carry water (other than a mist) up the tubes....I believe the airboxes have drains anyway...

jtown82 05-02-2010 10:11 PM

had a chance to get any dyno numbers? esp say with a good fan blowing into the inlets to see the true difference in power gained with air rushing in.

Modshack 05-02-2010 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtown82 (Post 522518)
had a chance to get any dyno numbers? esp say with a good fan blowing into the inlets to see the true difference in power gained with air rushing in.


Huh?......No...This is not a RAM AIR set-up. All it does is help cool the air charge coming into the filter area. Cooler IAT's usually result in more timing advance which equals more power. Doubt you could ever dupicate this on a Dyno...

Dr.Awkward 05-02-2010 11:42 PM

Think this would work to put air onto oil/dif coolers mounted in front of the wheel wells, would it be effective?

Modshack 05-03-2010 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr.Awkward (Post 522634)
Think this would work to put air onto oil/dif coolers mounted in front of the wheel wells, would it be effective?

You could by cutting holes in this panel and ducting air into the area in front of the wheel liner:

http://images47.fotki.com/v1497/phot...MG_1683-vi.jpg

Looks like there's already a mold mark for this! You'd also have to louver the front of the wheel liner to promote flow through...

http://images50.fotki.com/v1514/phot...MG_1709-vi.jpg

Dr.Awkward 05-03-2010 11:10 AM

So make a vent that would move the air out into the wheel well, that might help keep the brakes cooler too.

Modshack 05-03-2010 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr.Awkward (Post 522897)
So make a vent that would move the air out into the wheel well, that might help keep the brakes cooler too.

For street use you'd get a better bang for the buck running the lines to the intake. There are simpler ways to duct air to the brakes..(Flaps on the lower control arms etc)


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