Thanks for the write-up. I read through it before I started and it took me less than an hour from the time I started pulling out tools until I was done putting them up.

+1 rep

Ok so question: Let's say you have a bit of rust. What tool or tools do you all recommend to remove the rust and make sure the rotor will not wear uneven?

If it is rust on the edge just leave it. Rust on the hub face, just leave it and apply a very thin smear of grease to prevent it rusting to the hub. Rust on the braking surface will be gone with a few minutes of driving.

I mean rust on the Hub face and studs. I got brand new DBA 2 piece 5000 series rotors for the front and 1 piece 4000 series for the rear. They recommend sanding down or using a wire brush to promote even wear on the rotor. They even go as far as to recommend use of a Dial indicator to see if there is any run-out of the rotors once installed. If there is it is recommended to rotate the rotor 1 lug at a time until you get the lowest run out.

Just for yall who have base brakes. My rotor did not have the "anti seize pop off" screw. But the hole is still there. Coincidentally, the bolts from the bracket are the perfect size. So rather than beating your rotor, just screw that bolt into the hole in your rotor and it pops right off.

Just some pictures to add to this DYI.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...91426840_n.jpg

Additional Tip:

1. Instead of fiddling around with a coat hanger or zip ties; I used a jack stands which is leveled to the original position.

2. The pop-off screw works great. Take it off, removed the spacer, spray a little WD40 and slowly screw it back to the hub. (Warning, it made a mark on the inside hub. Don't think it will cause any issues.)

3. Aligned the new rotors where you made the mark; so that your new rotors has the same weight distribution. (Not sure how much it matters but might as well).

The setup I went with DBA5000 and Project Mu 800.

Lots of brake dust compared to stock. Stopping power seems to be "slightly" better on initial bite.

Exta stud
 

Hey guys just putting on Ichiba spacers on the front and am running into an issue with that extra bolt that is beside the studs. Do i have to knock that out because the 15mm spacer does not go on. Please help.

It just unscrews. It's there so u don't accidentally put a rear wheel on the front.

Just changed my front rotors and pads this weekend. Surprisingly verrryyyyy easy if you have any experience working on a car.

subscribed :) nice DIY dude!

What is torque spec on our 370z?

I thought removing the brake pads was not necessary to install rotors?

Has anybody taken the dust shields off to replace with the sport ones for the Sport BBK? Is it easy? I'll be doing this in a couple of weeks but haven't seen anybody do it yet. Don't want to trim or bend the base ones.

So I upgraded my base brakes with the Akebono Calipers and Z1 2 piece rotors front and back. Didn't want to trim or bend the dust shields so I bought the OEM sport ones. Front of the car real easy, remove wheel, caliper, rotor and four bolts for the hub assembly. Rear of the car you have to remove wheel, caliper, rotor, e-brake assembly, rear axel bolt and hub assembly. Pretty straight forward but some work for just dust shields. My OCD didn't allow me to bend or trim them :roflpuke2:
Here are some pictures of the rear.

So by removing the two 22mm bolts and this one 12mm bolt I should be able to move the caliper without breaking the brake line?