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Is that a Nissan sticker you have on your painted calipers?
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What's up with the Nissan sticker?
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Another question...do you just allow the hard tubing part of the brake line to flex and bend as you remove the caliper and hang it out of the way, or did I miss a step?
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You need to disconnect the bolt securing the brake line to the steering knuckle assembly (picture 4). Once you've done that you'll have lots of flex from the rubber hose. |
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The rotor should come off freely once the caliper is out of the way, however corrosion can cause it to become bonded to the hub. You'll have to give it a good hard whack with a rubber mallet to break it loose (picture #7). |
Been beating the **** out of my rotor with a rubber mallet for like an hour, still won't budge. Sprayed some PB Blaster on it as well. Ugh.
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You can try applying some heat from a torch (if you have it) around the face of the rotor but that only really works if you have a real torch (oxy). Another trick that works sometimes is to put the wheel back on over the studs and using your hands to jar the edge of the wheel causing a lever action on the rotor. |
Did you put a lot of muscle into pounding the rotor? When I did mine, at first I thought I was hitting it hard enough, but I had to really pound it like I was trying to shatter it before it loosened.
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*sigh*, I failed, and failed hard....
See this thread: http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...ml#post1632378 |
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http://www.the370z.com/members/icorm...45-photo-1.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/icorm...46-photo-2.jpg |
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+Rep !! |
Ahhhhhhh soo thats the newer thing on the rotors for the 370z.
I previously had a 350z and getting the rotors was a big pain in the a$$ w/ out a breaker bar or enough space. Glad to know its easier to do rotors and spacers. |
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