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DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

I just took it to the dealer, plugged in only the board w/ the motor removed (didn't put the rest of the steering wheel lock in at all). Pushed the

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Old 01-26-2013, 04:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I just took it to the dealer, plugged in only the board w/ the motor removed (didn't put the rest of the steering wheel lock in at all). Pushed the two buttons while I hit the start button and it started no problem. There doesn't seem to be any negative impact of just hitting the two buttons, starting the car, then releasing them.

Since this is working, I think now that I have it home I will probably put the board back in the steering lock, without the motor, and will make sure the gear is fully extended pushing the buttons in.

If it's this easy, I don't really see any more reason to mess around with soldering the buttons or anything. If I get Nissan to cover the part replacement, I might try screwing around with it then.
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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akmofo wrote:
When the switch is depressed (there's only in, no half-way as theorized by Fritz in other post). 1 and 6 get disconnected and 2,3,4,5 are all connected.
Not this Fritz! Disconnection/Connection is complete at half-way in or earlier but I advised not to over-push the switch(es) to the limit(s).

Confirmed again: the two switches change at about half way and nothing in between! (They're also easily available cheaply from your electronics parts shop...as are the Omron relays.)

That apart::::the important thing to note is that the brown wire passes both positive and negative. On car testing with voltages is ill-advised and the "fuse" is thus...er... confused!

Also see my several posts and threads on this: The board fits (fitted) neatly in an eyeglass case which fits nicely in the car thus saving dead weight...but testers in Europe (and some states) need a steering lock so I progressed from there with the "switch optional" thread which also adds vehicle security.

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Old 01-27-2013, 06:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritz View Post
akmofo wrote:
When the switch is depressed (there's only in, no half-way as theorized by Fritz in other post). 1 and 6 get disconnected and 2,3,4,5 are all connected.
Not this Fritz! Disconnection/Connection is complete at half-way in or earlier but I advised not to over-push the switch(es) to the limit(s).

Confirmed again: the two switches change at about half way and nothing in between! (They're also easily available cheaply from your electronics parts shop...as are the Omron relays.)

That apart::::the important thing to note is that the brown wire passes both positive and negative. On car testing with voltages is ill-advised and the "fuse" is thus...er... confused!

Also see my several posts and threads on this: The board fits (fitted) neatly in an eyeglass case which fits nicely in the car thus saving dead weight...but testers in Europe (and some states) need a steering lock so I progressed from there with the "switch optional" thread which also adds vehicle security.

Regards,

Fritz
Hey Fritz This site has been very quiet since you have been gone don't come in here and start the "fuse" stuff again like you and that other guy did and all you guys did was confuse everybody if you want to help then help if you have any other agenda I suggest finding a new site.
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