Now that I've gotten mine working again, I'd say the worst part of a self-repair is just getting the switch open. Took me probably an hour once I had my drill charged, and used the correct Dremel cutter.

It super easy to just move the gear back into the unlocked position, and pull the motor like I did then put it back together. All in all, it should only take a couple hours. I spent a lot longer trying to understand how everything worked, but really the only important parts are pulling the motor to prevent accidental lock engagement, and forcing the buttons down. You could even forgo reinstalling the lock all together (there would be an empty hole which could cause problems), put the board inside something, and/or tape the buttons the down.

akmofo wrote:
When the switch is depressed (there's only in, no half-way as theorized by Fritz in other post). 1 and 6 get disconnected and 2,3,4,5 are all connected.
Not this Fritz! Disconnection/Connection is complete at half-way in or earlier but I advised not to over-push the switch(es) to the limit(s).

Confirmed again: the two switches change at about half way and nothing in between! (They're also easily available cheaply from your electronics parts shop...as are the Omron relays.)

That apart::::the important thing to note is that the brown wire passes both positive and negative. On car testing with voltages is ill-advised and the "fuse" is thus...er... confused!

Also see my several posts and threads on this: The board fits (fitted) neatly in an eyeglass case which fits nicely in the car thus saving dead weight...but testers in Europe (and some states) need a steering lock so I progressed from there with the "switch optional" thread which also adds vehicle security.

Regards,

Fritz

Hey Fritz This site has been very quiet since you have been gone don't come in here and start the "fuse" stuff again like you and that other guy did and all you guys did was confuse everybody if you want to help then help if you have any other agenda I suggest finding a new site.

Hello guys.

So... i ended up having my steering lock go out on me on my GTR, and after searching realized the 370z had the same part and you guys had alot of information.

Since my warranty was out, I ended up having my car towed to my home and attempted some of the fixes that are listed on this forum. It seems the Fuse fix doesnt work on the GTR, as I was able to get the car to turn on to Acc and On mode, and with the fuse removed, the car was still looking for the steering lock. I didnt end up trying to cut the wire, maybe this will work?

I will attach some pictures of the battery fuse box and the fuse that i removed if someone wants to look at it.

Anyways I ended up taking out the Dremel, and slicing the box open, and having the gear fully turned so that the 2 buttons are fully depressed and basically it is in a permanent "unlocked" state.

Well... that is cool but now, it seems this throws a code? the key light came back on after a few times of turning the car on and off. It doesnt affect the car turning on, but it seems to be triggering that it cannot lock the steering lock when the car is off? It actually goes away when I clear the codes on the car but will always come back after a few on and off cycles.

Anyways, if anyone has any more information about this on a GTR or possibly another permanent fix that i havent tried. or maybe i should try the wire cutting method?

I wrote up a complete DIY on how I repaired mine.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post2134381

(this wasn't really to answer bhk1004's post, just coincidentally posted at the same time).

I'm confused. about this part:
Are you saying it doesn't prevent the car from starting? Or that the steering lock no longer works? I would expect the lock to not work anymore if you pulled the fuse.

I think the fuse just powers the motor that spins the gear and raises/lowers the lock. Cutting the wire does the same thing, just at a different point in the circuit.

My girlfriend's car has the little yellow light on as well, but it doesn't seem to affect the ability to start it, which is the only thing I cared about.

yes, I followed your pictures and write ups, as well as someone else on the GTR forums that actually was able to actually fix the unit. So now with the motor removed and the unit in a permanent "unlocked" button depressed mode, I am getting the key light again. but it seems now its for not being able to "lock" when the car is turned off and is throwing a code. which I can actually wipe. but will come back.

Wondering if there is a fix somewhere for this.

BTW, I actually used the peice at the top, the spring lock mechanism, the hold the pin down which seemed to work pretty good as well.

yes, the light is on, but the car starts perfectly fine. I was wondering if there is a way to get rid of this stupid light... as I am sure there will be questions when I am either selling the car or trading the car in which will become a headache...

BTW awesome info on the new bolts to replace the headache security bolts... gonna go get me some tonight!

Thanks! Wait, I just realized you said you have a GTR. Aren't you eligible for the recall?

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post1501963

called the GTR hotline, what we consider a recall and what they consider a recall are 2 completely different things. They say officially that is only considered a technical service bulletin and are refusing to fix it FOC outside of warranty. and the part doesnt fall under the drivetrain warranty... i woulda thought steering wheel would be part of the drivetrain? lol. oh well.

oh and my car didnt fall into the catergory for the TSB either... due to this was to replace the unit for the C model. and my car already came with the C so I am assuming thats why my VIN wasnt included in this.

Is it a 2009? I would print it up, go dealer to dealer until one will do it for you.

It says pretty clearly:

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/d...lockrecall.pdf

OWNER’S LETTER
Dear Nissan Owner:
Nissan is committed to providing the highest levels of product quality and customer satisfaction. We believe that our current and future success depends on your continued satisfaction with Nissan. With that in mind, we want to bring to your attention important information regarding the Steering Column Lock System in your 2009 Nissan GT-R.

REASON FOR SERVICE CAMPAIGN
Your 2009 GT-R is equipped with an Electronic Steering Column Lock (ESCL) that locks the steering wheel when the vehicle is parked and turned off to help prevent theft. On some 2009 GT-R vehicles, excessive oil within the ESCL may cause the On Board Theft Deterrent System to prevent the engine from starting. To avoid any such occurrences, Nissan will replace the ESCL Assembly.

WHAT NISSAN WILL DO
Your Nissan dealer will inspect and if necessary, replace the Electric Steering Column Lock (ESCL) Unit free of charge for parts and labor. WHAT YOU SHOULD DO Contact your Nissan dealer at your earliest convenience in order to arrange an appointment. To ensure the least inconvenience for you, it is important that you have an appointment before bringing your vehicle to the Nissan dealer for service. Please bring this notice with you when you keep your service appointment. Instructions have been sent to your Nissan dealer.
If the dealer fails, or is unable to complete the service free of charge, you may contact the National Consumer Affairs Department, Nissan North America, Inc., P.O. Box 685003, Franklin, TN 37068-5003. The toll free number is 1-866-668-1487.

Is that the 866 number you called?

yup. but the problem is, they are replacing the earlier A and B units for the C unit. My car already had the C unit from the factory and my car is outside of the VIN numbers that are covered.

oh and if you call them, they still maintain this is not a recall, and is only a technical service bulletin. lol.

Lame. I'm still waiting to hear back from Nissan as I've asked them to foot the bill since I have a B unit, but I have a 370z (like it matters, a bad part is a bad part).

kinda wierd having a GTR guy finding info about steering lock here since i originally found the info from a GTR site how they swapped out the unit. :icon17:

GL on the repairs guys. :)

yah... they did say if you keep the reciept for any $$$ you pay, and eventually there is a recall they will reimburse you... If they do have a recall in the future, not sure how they gonna feel about my cut up unit that is duct taped together... lol.