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-   -   DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>. (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/4616-diy-oil-cooler-scratch-built-install-lottsa-pics.html)

vehl 07-27-2009 01:32 AM

hey Modshack, any increase in water temperature now that there's an obstruction to the radiator? and does that mean when u change your oil, u put in more than the standard 5 litres?

im interested in getting an oil cooler done as well but am looking at possible downsides to it..

Modshack 07-27-2009 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vehl (Post 127266)
hey Modshack, any increase in water temperature now that there's an obstruction to the radiator? and does that mean when u change your oil, u put in more than the standard 5 litres?

im interested in getting an oil cooler done as well but am looking at possible downsides to it..

Water temps do not seem to be an issue at all...This car runs very cool in the 182-190F range. Car now takes +1 Qt of oil.

ZForce 08-19-2009 09:29 PM

Great thread, thanks Modshack! :tup:

iceman21_23 09-09-2009 03:56 PM

i have a question modshack would a 36 row or 48 row cooler be any different with any of the other fittings?

Modshack 09-10-2009 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman21_23 (Post 191652)
i have a question modshack would a 36 row or 48 row cooler be any different with any of the other fittings?

All the fittings would be the same. A cooler that big might be overkill for the street though based on the temps I'm seeing. (OK for track though)

iceman21_23 09-11-2009 08:09 AM

i plan on taking my car to the track as often as i can afford lol so i may get the 36 row just incase thanks modshack rep+1

Mike 09-11-2009 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman21_23 (Post 194049)
i plan on taking my car to the track as often as i can afford lol so i may get the 36 row just incase thanks modshack rep+1

when do you plan on your first track event?

I just completed Modshack's cooler install yesterday with the same cooler as he used, and have track events on the 25th and 30th. I should be able to report back on the effectiveness soon if you can wait.

iceman21_23 09-11-2009 10:56 AM

i have my first track day at MSR on oct. 30th my buddy is friends with the people that run it and we have a 4 hour session there.

also modshack what exactly did you use for the bracket?

Mike 09-11-2009 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman21_23 (Post 194222)
i have my first track day at MSR on oct. 30th my buddy is friends with the people that run it and we have a 4 hour session there.

also modshack what exactly did you use for the bracket?

4 hour endurance????

Anyway, should have feedback for you by Oct 1st. Car is all ready for the track now.

For my bracket, I got a piece of flat metal stock from Lowes and cut it to size.

iceman21_23 09-11-2009 11:10 AM

no we just have use of the track for 4 hours

Modshack 09-11-2009 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman21_23 (Post 194222)

also modshack what exactly did you use for the bracket?

Just a simple 1/8" thick rectangle of aluminum, drilled to match the cooler on one side and the existing cross-brace holes on the other. More pics:
Oil Cooler fabrication and install album | Ttschwing | Fotki.com

cjof2003 09-21-2009 12:12 AM

Please excuse me if I'm just a little slow and don't understand but I do have a question sort of.

You stated that the sandwich plate does not open up and allow oil flow through the lines and cooler until 180F.
You also stated you drain the cooler/lines during oil changes.

During an oil change, I assume the oil isn't 180F, thus the plate isn't open, so do you do the change, drain the cooler, then let the car idle up to 180F and check the oil levels again and add more oil to account for the increased volume that is not accessible?

If you don't, would you not run low on oil, or does oil somehow fill back into the filter, lines and cooler during the change process?
Would this be any different without a thermostatic sandwich plate if you drained the cooler each time?

Sorry, I admit I have limited knowledge in this area, it just seems to me, that if you drain the cooler, oil has no way of getting back in there until the car is started and the pump flowing, thus you would need to recheck and compensate the oil level after inspecting for leaks. Thus a thermostatic plate would require the car to be started and warmed to at least 180F and do this. Is this correct?

Modshack 09-21-2009 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjof2003 (Post 206590)
You stated that the sandwich plate does not open up and allow oil flow through the lines and cooler until 180F.
You also stated you drain the cooler/lines during oil changes.


Sorry, I admit I have limited knowledge in this area, it just seems to me, that if you drain the cooler, oil has no way of getting back in there until the car is started and the pump flowing, thus you would need to recheck and compensate the oil level after inspecting for leaks. Thus a thermostatic plate would require the car to be started and warmed to at least 180F and do this. Is this correct?

I think you're making it a bit more complicated than it really is.

There is always oil flow through the cooler regardless of temp. When cold it is a limited flow, but the thermo plate remains slightly open to allow this and avoid thermal shock when the 180 point is reached. 180 is the point that the plate opens fully for max flow and cooling.

Popping off one of the AN fittings at the plate allows oil in the cooler to drain by gravity as it is mounted higher on the car

When started up the cooler is immediately filled.

Final oil levels should always be checked and adjusted after filling to approx. levels, running the car to fill the filter and cooler, and allowing oil to drain back to the sump for accurate measurement via the dipstick.

cjof2003 09-21-2009 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack (Post 206945)
I think you're making it a bit more complicated than it really is.

There is always oil flow through the cooler regardless of temp. When cold it is a limited flow, but the thermo plate remains slightly open to allow this and avoid thermal shock when the 180 point is reached. 180 is the point that the plate opens fully for max flow and cooling.

Popping off one of the AN fittings at the plate allows oil in the cooler to drain by gravity as it is mounted higher on the car

When started up the cooler is immediately filled.

Final oil levels should always be checked and adjusted after filling to approx. levels, running the car to fill the filter and cooler, and allowing oil to drain back to the sump for accurate measurement via the dipstick.

Alright, I understand now. Thanks. :tup:

iceman21_23 09-29-2009 12:43 AM

mike so you still were up to the 260 range huh? hmm i may have to get one size bigger just to be safe.


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