Sorry to bump an old thread but I thought this would be the most relevant here;

From the following thread: http://www.the370z.com/new-roadster-...g-light-2.html

These part numbers are for the control stalks for the 370z:

2011 USDM (base)
wire harness, main: 24010-1TH0A
wire harness, left body: 24014-1TG0A
controller assy-BCM: 284B1-1ET6C
switch assy-combo (stalk): 25560-9N00B (this is the same stalk that CADM NISMO receive)

2011 CADM (base)
wire harness, main: 24010-1TH0A
wire harness, left body: 24014-1TG0A
controller assy-BCM: 284B1-1EJ5D
switch assy-combo (stalk): 25560-1EA0C

2011 MEXDM (touring, no base avail)
wire harness, main: 24010-1EZ0A
wire harness, left body: 24014-1EH0B
controller assy-BCM: 284B1-1EA5D
switch assy-combo (stalk): 25560-1EA0C
---------------------------------------------------------------
US stalk: 25560-9N00B (lame USDM) $170
Canada/Mexico stalk: 25560-1EA0C (no rear wiper)
Arabian/Argentinian/Brazilian stalk: 25560-1EL0B (with rear wiper)
Euro stalk: 25560-1EL5A (daytime running lights; no rear wiper)
Euro stalk: 25560-1HA7A (daytime running lights; with rear wiper)
Japan stalk: 25560-1EP0B (RHD yo!)



The one we needed to have the factory fog switch was the Canada/Mexico stalk: 25560-1EA0C (no rear wiper) but @ $400 its simply not cost effective..


But has anyone tried to price the 2013 wiper stalk? These have the necessary fog light switch integrated if im not mistaken.

Any insight?

Bump, anyone?

Why the diode to the BCM?
 

Curious as to why you are adding a diode to the input at the BCM. Great write up by the way. Very complete.

It's been so long I can't remember. I think the original Nissan wiring schematics all use diodes. I think ChrisSlicks confirmed I needed it at the time.

I ordered and installed the rocker switch from the Zstore. I powered the switch using the yellow wire for the accessory socket located in the armrest.

Instead of using the pigtail that came with the kit, I ran the red power wire from the switch to the BCM and spliced into the orange power wire. Bingo, the light works!

Problem is, the light always works as long as the car is started. Probably because I am only using the red power wire coming off the switch and not using the black ground wire.

Question: Is the ground wire for the light also located at the BCM along with the orange power wire?

After many hours studying the wiring diagram, I determined the best approach was to go ahead and wire the rocker switch directly into the rear fog light.

The factory ground wire for the light terminates in the rear bumper area, so I was destined to take apart the rear hatch anyway just to gain access to the wire.

Turns out wiring the switch to the light was a simple install and only took a couple of hours. I threaded the wires from the fog light through the drain plug located under the spare and into the console.

Now the rocker switch works as advertised and looks like a factory install. Total cost for fog light and switch was just over $300. Well worth it!

I know you did this a long time ago, but I was wandering if you used a 5/8" drill bit for the hole, and how you did it without cracking/breaking the plastic. I'm getting ready to install a similar switch, and am a bit paranoid since there is no room for error.

Thanks!

When I did mine, I used an exactoknife to cut the shape and then filed outwards to get the perfect fit. A drill might be easier but I was worried about the same thing.

Hope that helps!

Hey any luck wiring the led light to your factory switch so that you can turn the led fog light on and off like factory fog light? Also, does the flash still work when the switch is turned on? Im trying to do the same thing, wire that led light and still be able to turn it off like you can with factory bulb using that switch on the left lever, but still have it flash when fog light is turned on.