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Thanks for the DIY!
My experience with the T30s seems to be better than most. I bought this from Home Depot: DEWALT 1 in. Torx Security Drill Bit Tip Set (7-Piece)-DWA1TS-7 at The Home Depot And used a 1/4" socket to hold the T30 bit in my wrench. The bolts came out easily and cleanly, despite being covered in Loctite. Now I know that I need to replace or fix the "wire assy-steering airbag" because I am an idiot and snapped the ribbon cables during another DIY job. |
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Got the steering wheel swapped out re-installed. I have reconnected the orange/yellow and grey connections and in re-installing the actual airbag, it isn't laying down flat. Meaning, I can get the bottom point to match up but then the top left and right points won't push in. Or... I can get the top right and left points to line up and the holes for the T30 lined up and the bottom point sticks out about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. Has anyone run into this and what was the solution? It feels like there is something in the way and I am afraid to press to hard or give it any force and get a deployed airbag to the FACE.
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It's most likely the spring loaded metal plate in the center of the wheel. Look at the fitment of the notched area at the bottom. It most likely is not slotted in correctly on your wheel. I had the same issue. I actually had to bend the piece a tiny bit to make it slide on properly.
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...p/DSCN2417.jpg |
It was the notch on the bottom. After about an hour of banging my head and WTF's. I looked hard at everything and literally said out loud to myself.. "You dumb Bi*#ch"
Un screwed. Reinserted the black lip behind the metal plate at the bottom. Pushed back on the top. Re-screwed and whaalaa |
So... If anyone reading this DIY runs into this issue or doesn't want to run into this issue,
Before you screw the 2 top torques, place the lower black lip behind the metal slot at a 45° angle, top leaving towards you. Push top back making sure 2 springs in rear are in contact. Hold in place at top while you re screw torque screws. http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/...pshhoczsra.png |
Ha! So the hits just keep on coming.
So.... Now if she's parked or sitting with the wheels straight the steering wheel is straight as well. But. When I drive straight... The wheel drives with it turned about 5 mins counter clockwise (if that makes sense.) Do I need to remove and reinstall more clockwise to compensate for it? Jeez |
you gotta be pretty f-ked if you messed up aligning the splines.. :ugh:
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You must have not put it on the same spline you took it off from, so yes.
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Aaaaanddddd..... The donk of the day award goes to me....
Dually noted gentlemen. Just found on a 350z forum that the correct spline has a hash mark. Looked on my old wheel and there it is. Battery is disconnected for yet the 3rd time now and is waiting realignment. So... for all of you reading this that have never changed a steering wheel before. Follow this DIY. Check updated pics throughout the whole post. And match up the hash marks on your hub and your wheel. |
I guess my blanket statement for reverse order of disassembly for reassembly was to vague. If you don't want to take the wheel back off you can just hit a curb on the opposite side.
I guess I will add that I'm just poking fun since sarcasm can't be read online. Sorry if the DIY wasn't clear enough 3rd time is a charm! |
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The funny thing about it is that I have actually tested that theory... Not by choice though. |
when i do steering wheel swaps, the very first thing i do is align steering wheel to point noon position.
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no horn!
I replaced my steering wheel and all went seamlessly thanks to this thread. However, I have two issues:
1) The horn is not working. Does anyone know which wire I must have not connected correctly that controls the horn? 2) The wheel is crooked. When I put it back on, I aligned the engraved lines, but as I tightened the center lock nut, the wheel starts to drift. Is there a trick to keep this from happening other than just holding the wheel very tight? |
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