I just added RTV to mine to see if it would stop leaking.

Here is my final setup. I royally screwed myself attempting to integrate the aftermarket sensors with the oil pan. So for this go around, I opted for fittings that would attach to the oil cooler. I ordered them from Summit for $38.

http://i.imgur.com/ngFdnzP.jpg

It seems to me that putting the thermostat and pressure on the oil cooler would give some bad readings, especially if using a thermostatic sandwich plate.

Did this issue ever get resolved? Was the drop in oil pressure traced to a fault in the gauge? If so, is this a problem others have experienced using the AEM gauge? I'm thinking of doing this install and would like to avoid having to replace the gauge every few months because of a defect. How do the AEM gauges compare to others such as Delfie or Innovate? Thanks for any input.

Nissan told me the pressures were fine. AEM said the gauge transducers don't last long and it's the likely cause. Ended up selling the car before finding anything else out.

Spearfish, thanks for the response. Guess I won't be going with the AEM gauge. I'll check out Delfie and then decide whether to proceed or not with the install. Again, thanks for your input.

Update to Oil Pressure gauge installs...

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...r-bsp-npt.html

I'll just link the img to simplify.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d.jpg~original

My gauge setup. In the cubby with a water temp gauge on the left. I hated the water temp dots so two gauges got put in. See the link.


Nissan 370Z Forum - Corsairprime's Album: 370Z Nismo Car mods - Picture
http://www.the370z.com/members/corsa...uges-370z.html

Good info. I was looking at an AEM gauge but have thought better of it after reading this write up.

My Autometer gauge part numbers.
 

For those that would like to know the potential costs involved for my build:

I paid the following prices for the gauge setup pictured in my prior post response. See below. All gauges came with sensors. Just needed to find a place to mount them. I had a sandwich plate for the oil cooler. Port was available. One problem solved. I ordered the water temp sensor adapter for the return coolant hose at the top of the engine block and installed the temp sensor. When the thermostat opens you get the coolant temp reading. It very closely follows the OBD2 coolant sensor readings. Fabricating the cubby mount and the wiring integration is not that hard. Minor cutting and drilling at best. Take the whole cubby out to do this install if you plan to keep it more or less intact, I found it to be the easiest way to work the install and not sweat to death in the Texas heat getting this done. The dimmer unit is definitely required for nighttime driving. Do not try to hook this up to the factory dimmer, it's a waste of time and just a pain.

1x Water Temp gauge 2 1/16" #5654 Amazon price $202.27
1x Oil Pressure gauge 2 1/16" #5652 Amazon price $229.77
2x Carbon Fiber 2 1/16" cup #2121 Amazon price $45.73
1x Lighting Dimmer #9114 Amazon price $33.52
Mishimoto water temp sensor adapter MMWHS-34-BK Amazon price $24.15

Spearfish,
teflon tape has no business on straight threads, (BSP). I've seen it where people have put it on drain plugs, and it has gotten into the oil system. it is possible for some of the tape to make it into the fittings, and gum them up, rendering the readings innacurate.

It's not that it had no business....because that's not true. When used correctly it's completely fine. Trick is to not put too much on and to ensure you don't let any roll over the edge of the fitting so that it would be in the oil stream. I use it sparingly and keep it neat and it's no issue. Also important to clean up any left on threads when taking parts apart that have it.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

So just grabbed a pressure gauge myself today, Learing of another guys motor eating it after the rear timing cover gaskets failed.:( Having warranty till 118k and 3 more years , the few hundred was worth it.

Wisper quiet and lighting fast Japanese Stepper Motor Movement
Analog and digital display
Pointer trailing LED's
Fully programmable Warning feature
Daisy chain
Premium waterproof sender
Includes wire harness (gauge to sender -plug and play)
2 color choices
includes mounting cup
includes Visor

Prosport JDM (Japanese dual series electrical Oil Pressure gauge

I agree with Mozen. The trick is to have the tape only on the threads and not at the end of the fitting. I've been doing this for as many years as I can remember having teflon tape. A sloppy taping job could cause problems.

I wish I had read this before ordering my oil pressure gauge. I had already purchased a 1-100 psi so I had to return it for a 0-150. No big deal as I ordered it from Jegs and they have a great return policy.

where do U mount this gauge w/o disturbing original dash..

For those interested in having the dimming feature on an AEM or Defi Racer oil pressure gauge work, read on. Each of these gauges has a wire as part of the power harness that's supplied with the gauge that when connected results in the gauge dimming when the headlights are turned on. It's the grey wire in the AEM harness and the white wire in the Defi harness. In order to get this feature to work on my 2013 Z, I tapped into the red wire running from Terminal #9 of the M81 connector that connects into the audio unit. The wire is labelled "ILL(+)" in the FSM. You can find the details on p. PG-91 of the FSM for the 2013 model year. (Presumably, the FSMs for other model years will show the same type of connector and terminal, but they may be numbered differently (IDK) … anyway, look for the ILL(+) terminal on the audio connector). I ended up cutting the red wire, carefully trimming back the insulation on both ends, and then splicing in the wire from the gauge using a 22-18 AWG solder splice. Be advised that it's a bit of a labor-of-love since you have to remove a number of trim pieces in order to access the connector at the back of the audio unit … as well as run the gauge wire from the fuse box located in the driver foot well up and around the pedals and feed it to the back of the audio unit. Anyway for those interested, it works.

Ive been on the track a full season after installing my fuel pressure gauge and plumbing it in... hasnt budged or had issues.

http://www.the370z.com/members/giral...into-block.jpg

A-Pillar...

Or just swap gauges
http://www.the370z.com/members/giral...-installed.jpg

Yes and no

If its straight threaded, it should come with a grommet to ensure the seal, if not a smear of red rtv at the base... teflon can get ugly if a piece spits up into the pressure sender or get to travel around the system. if a fine strip is added at the base of the adapter thread, that should never happen, but if it covers all threads, theres a good chance of chewed up teflon floating aorund in in the system

That section is well covered and wont get water.... your air conditioner intake is right next to it.

If picky about it though, you can always hot glue the grommet after applying.

Yeah you need to reconsider that...

For oil cooler Ideal is to get an oil pan spacer, tap it and get readings from there... other option: you can run an -8an with 1/8npt take off (add a 1/8npt male to 1/8"npt female to add space) in line with sandwich plate for an oil cooler setup, but aluminum tape the fitting to isolate it from airflow.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Russell-P...xoCuGwQAvD_BwE

For oil pressure, Ideally, you would want to Tee it off from the block , so that you are are getting the exact same reading that the OEM is sending to the motor.
http://www.the370z.com/members/giral...into-block.jpg

I would recommend against installing the aftermarket sensor using a T at the factory pressure sensor location. I used the brass T from Z1 and an Autometer pressure sensor, and I not only had the brass T fail, it also cracked the port.
So now I have to replace the upper oil pan.

Did I read in your other thread that you had an impact with something?

The brass T was not a good choice to begin. But the port shouldn't have cracked on it's own just from track abuse. Plenty of guys are running oil pressure sensor tee'd off the factory location with no issues for years.

Why not just get a sandwich plate that's threaded for a 1/8" npt fitting?

The only "impact" I had was hitting a curb and getting two wheels off track.
Also my home track of Sebring is very bumpy. The other thing, it seems the
Autometer sending unit seems larger than some other units that I see.
I'm looking at getting an AN adapter and installing it on top of the oil cooler,
or even running a line from there and chassis mounting it.
I did find a thread where someone else cracked the port at that location,
he did not mention what caused the damage.

I've heard of a few people cracking the port due to over torqueing the sensor.

This guy on the 350Z forum had a solution that might be worth checking out before replacing the upper oil pan. It's a common BMW solution.
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...imple-fix.html

It is possible that when I reinstalled the factory sensor, I over tightened.

It is also interesting that in the first picture in this thread the T fitting is the exact one that I used, but pictures of the actual install show a different and much stronger looking brass T.

bait/switch

the links take me to a generic page. can you send the link to the exact fitting... thank you for the information!

it would be something like this but make sure the threading on the Z is bspt.. can't remember offhand.

https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Sens.../dp/B08LQN61K6

I bought a chinesium one because it looked similar to the OEM ones but ended up being too slow for my taste.

Any affordable gauges you've found that looks similar to OEM?

Defi has the closest look.

I don't wanna open a new thread, so I'll reuse this one to post a few questions before I get on to installing an oil cooler. All of the parts arrived so I just wanna make sure I got everything conceptualized as I should, so I have several questions (some of which are pretty simple and maybe stupid, but bear with me pls).

1. Does the oil cooler have a direction how it's supposed to be turned? I'm guessing it doesn't.

I bought the thermostatic plate adapter.

https://i.imgur.com/L5Ib5D7m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/P1jMm7qm.jpg

2. The side with the rubber, I'm guessing goes toward the engine, correct? The other side is flat, so the oil filter should attach on that side, yes?
3. On the thermostatic plate, the black hex screw is probably factory sealing the thermostat, nothing to do there, correct?
4. Thermostat itself is now probably closed, as the temperature isn't hot. But when I look through it - I can see the path for oil is partially open. Is this by design? I thought it would be completely closed until a certain temperature, and open only then to let the flow get to the oil cooler. Do I misunderstand something here?
5. These fittings on the sandwich plate and the same fittings on the oil cooler - should I use teflon or threadlocker or any other stuff to make sure it's tight and doesn't leak?

This is the pressure sensor and I just places the T-fitting on top of it to check threading. Here I have the following issue:

https://i.imgur.com/CflHPavm.jpg

6. The thread on the sensor is for whatever reason, cone-shaped. It literally expands just a slightly bit going from top to bottom. It's barely visible, but you feel it the moment you start threading the T-fitting. Threads are 100% same width. Is this normal or is this a manufacturer's defect? I can imagine it being deliberate, so to have better thread engagement to get a super snug fit, but I'm worried the T-fitting might break if I thread it fully. I would sandpaper the bottom part of the threads so they fit easier, because it will be snug anyway, and I'd teflon or threadlock there. Thoughts?

Last question is regarding wiring. I know just the basics about wiring so I'd like to reconfirm something that's probably very obvious....
This is the schematics I got with the pressure gauge

https://i.imgur.com/6QKmbk6m.jpg
Large pic: https://imgur.com/6QKmbk6

7. I want to have amber-amber lighting, which is described as ignoring the WHITE wire, and connecting only the ORANGE to the battery. BLACK and RED being the + and - wires, naturally. Am I right to assume that I need to tie both ORANGE and RED to the + terminal of the battery, BLACK to the ground and that's it? Wouldn't that inevitably drain the battery? I suspect I should connect it to something that turns on with the car....

Thank you! :tiphat:

A few questions to start:

1. What brand/model of oil cooler?
2. What brand/model of thermostatic plate?
3. What brand/model of oil pressure gauge and sensor?

The answers will be helpful to those who can assist you with the install.

Thanks, I was trying to ask the questions already in a sense that it would be clear regardless of the brands, bc probably there is no difference regarding teflon/threadlock etc...

Oil cooler: setrab, 25 row
Pressure gauge and sensor: RSP gauges
Sandwich plate (with thermostat) - mocal

OK, a few comments to start:

1. In terms of the installation of the thermostatic plate, you are correct. The side with the rubber o-ring should be mounted against either the upper oil pan or the factory oil cooler depending on the model year of the Z. (Earlier Z's were not equipped with the oil cooler). The oil filter will screw into the opposite side of the plate. Even with the plate installed, there should be enough space for the oil filter.

2. In terms of the fittings, I would recommend applying a small amount of Permatex high-temperature thread sealant (or an equivalent brand-name sealant) to the threads as opposed to using teflon or threadlocker. I've found that the Permatex sealant works well. That said, follow the manufacturers' instructions. If they say to use teflon, use it.

3. In terms of the sensor fittings, it's important to recognize that different thread types exist. The most common ones are NPT and BSPT. They have different thread pitches and are not interchangeable. The port in the engine block where the factory sensor is mounted is a BSPT thread type. You will need to determine the thread type of your T-fitting as well as the aftermarket sensor. It is important that the thread types match. Adaptors are available that allow "bridging" between fittings of different thread types.

4. In terms of the wiring, I would recommend running the sensor wires through the large rubber grommet located in the firewall behind the battery. Afterwards, make sure to apply some silicone or RTV sealant around the opening that may need to be created to feed the wires through. Once inside, you can run the wires to the gauge, wherever you decide to place it. In terms of the gauge wires, I'd recommend running them to the driver's footwell where you'll find a fuse box. Connect the load wire from the gauge to an "add-a-circuit" (or fuse tap) of suitable amperage that you can install in the fuse box. You can select what circuit you want to tap into. The ground wire from the gauge can be connected to a nearby grounding surface, such as a screw or bolt mounted into metal. Make sure to disconnect the battery before proceeding with the wiring.

Trust this helps!

Thanks for the help, it does help and confirms most of what I suspected so far.

Regarding threadlock - there is nothing in the instructions that would suggest using any teflon nor threadlock, just "lubricant". (https://cdn.z1motorsports.com/upload...tallManual.pdf) I will look a bit more what do other installation manuals suggest, I'm guessing a bit of teflon can't hurt. I'll see if I can get permatex instead too.

Regarding threads - Well, the more you know :) I didn't know this about the threads and now that I'm looking into it - definitely the threads on the sensor and the T-fitting are different. I also found this thread where there is more information: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-w...eads-size.html
I'll see what adapter I need and I'll get those too. Thanks for this help!

And lastly, regarding wiring - no problem in pulling wires from the battery to the inside, I already located all the holes in the firewall and how/where to do it. I'm more confused by the instructions identifying 3 wires I need to connect (+, -, orange), and it tells me that orange needs to go to the battery. This part confuses me. I guess Orange needs to either go to the fuse or somewhere else? Please help :)

Thanks!

Can you post or provide a link to the instructions? I suspect that the orange wire may control the illumination of the gauge ... however, I would need to see the instructions to confirm.