Looking forward to the answer. I really like the idea of having it on dim with the parking lights then brighten up with the brake lights.

I haven't heard anything from evo-r on this. My guess is it will work...

Do you have a picture of this on at night? If so would you please share? Thanks.

I think I have try that before. If you wire the stop light srouce with the parking light. It does that

I just wanted to post 3 things:

1) The instructions in my kit actually show the factory orange wire as being the brake (it’s really reverse). My brake wire was green but I hear some people have instructions that say the brake wire is green unlike the ones that were included with my fog.

2) Use a torch on the back of the factory dummy light. I held it for about ten seconds and the nuts came off super easy. Before I heated it they would just turn in the housing as discussed before due to loctite. Don’t worry about scorching the little black plastic bracket the factory one fits into. (A) You will never see it, and (B) it is removed once you install the light since the EVO-R light sticks on with double sided 3m tape and is not bolted to it. Install took about a half hour with the exhaust out. I did this when installing my CBE. Fog light is by far one of the coolest little exterior upgrades. The LEDs accent the rear lights perfectly

3) Lower voltage to the LEDs worked on my bench supply. I ran 6volts to the light. I know the current draw would be double at 6 volts so hopefully the internal resistors to the LEDs are a high enough wattage. I only did this for a few seconds to test. I have not taken a light apart to do any modifications since I wanted mine to flash when I hit the brake anyways. This is a good idea to look into and if you could open up the housing. I’m sure the board could be easily modified to a larger wattage resistor to handle the higher current draw with running a lower voltage. Most LEDs illuminate at 3v. The 12-14v source from our cars will go to a resistor on the led matrix (this is inside the fog) which drops the voltage down to 3-4v. If you gave them 6volts that same resistor would then drop the led voltage down to 1.5-2 roughly with a higher current draw (which is why you may need a larger wattage resistor internally). This would allow you to provide 6volts when you have the lights on the 12v when you hit brake (will be brighter). You can do the switching with a transitor or relay. Diode isolate your sources.

Great tips Svre46! I know there are several light owners who want to exactly what you described re: the increase is brightness when you hit the brakes.

So can we increase the brightness without opening no right?

If the resistors are a high enough wattage to handle the increased amp draw then yes. I did not open my light so someone would need to investigate this. I just did it for a few seconds on mine to test but obviously prolonged use you risk damage unless again, the resistors are a high enough wattage to handle the decreased voltage and higher amperage. Someone should try a 24hr run at 6 or 7 volts and see if it holds up if we cannot open one. Maybe EVO-R can let us know the specs, or they may not want to share because a second version of this light could potentially be released. My light did dim a bit but keep in mind current is a big factor with LEDs and not so much voltage. I would really need a light to play with to get into the heart of this.

It would be nice to have a dim when on, bright when brake, and then the optional flash for reverse (could actually just use a flasher relay if it was into built into the light) and diode isolate it from the tails so your tail lights don’t flash with it.

One last thing. LEDs do have a limit of how low the voltage can go before operating. Current is the big factor on their illumination. If we decrease the voltage the dimming on them is pretty minimal but noticeable at least on my light. If you go to low they may not illuminate at all. We may need two types of LEDs in the light(one brighter than the other) or open it up so I can find a way to modify the flashing circuit (will always be bright when 12v is applied to the flashng wire) and use an external flashing relay so that it will flash in reverse but not flash on brake.

Maybe I will open up my blank oem housing and install a custom led matrix to do these functions as a test.

GUYS READ THIS TOO

It explains LEDs and dimmers ect. Someone may be brave and do their own modification.
http://www.mikesflightdeck.com/led_dimmer.htm

I finally put mine in today... and may need to take it off and re - install it because with my blacked out valence , I liked how the dummy lights color was very much the same as the valence.. this one stands out... I wired it to reverse to blink and brake to be steady.. but put a switch in-line the brake wire so I can turn it off it I get sick of it... everything works great but the color is a little to bright.. also on one side of the light I can see a smidge of white where I didn't with the stock one.. so I need to take it off again, tint it, and spray inside of the bumper where the light sits... oh well.. but overall I am happy with it...

Also, yesterday and this morning I sprayed PB blaster on my bolts and they came off VERY easily. I'm not sure if mine were just installed without locktite of the pb blaster worked but they came off with zero hassle.

Chuckd, do you have pics with the blacked out valance? I like the look of your valance, and have plans to have mine painted the same way. But I think I can picture how the EVO-R light would stand out. Post a pic if you can :tiphat:

I had a feeling the EVO R lights would be noticeably different if you have painted valence. Do you mind taking some pictures?

So you were able to achieve the look of dim when on and brighten on brake and blink in reverse?

I am interested to know the answer to this as well. I think it would be the perfect setup if it could be dimly lit and get bright when brakes are used while at the same time be configured to yet blink when in reverse.

While I appreciate the technical information that Svre46 provides in his posts, I have zero understanding of current, voltage and amps. (Please don't try to explain..my head will explode)

I do really well with CroMagnon-like directions in all honesty! Draw me a pretty picture with crayons (use the whole box if necessary) and I'll cope well!:tup:

:icon18::roflpuke2::bowrofl:

I just installed my EVO-R foglight to my black 09 Z...I have a stupid question...After I took off the old fake light & housing (which like everyone else, had to cut off one nut), do I no longer use any part of the old housing that held the fake light? If not, I did it right but is there any possibility of the new foglight getting wet under there? I am worry wart so I had to ask...
I have the fog light attached directly to the bumper with the plate and 4 connectors. I have RED on RED [for being on when the lights are on] and the White on Green [so when I hit the brakes, it flashes]. On a bad note :mad:, 2 LED's are bad so I called MotorSports and they are shipping me another one. I have the smoked foglight but not too crazy about it so the replacement, I requested to be red.
Thanks for everyones pics, insructions and tips to make this a job "somewhat" well done! :tup: Next, F.I. Exhaust!!!

This light looks pretty cool and appears easy to install. I'm looking to just have it as a 2nd "brake only" light, and flashing when in reverse. So I tap one lead into the brake only lead (color?) and one into the reverse lead. Cool.

But I went to the EVOR website and it won't let me click on this item. I can click on others, like carbon fiber parts, but not this. Is it out of stock or what?