If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Therefore, stud replacement is always better IMO. Less chance of nuts coming loose, etc. The stud replacement is easy and I believe the more solid spacer is stronger than the V2 spacer with twice the drilled holes. Your wheels are now mounted to the car via the spacer, not the hub... think about that!

I fitted mine today (+1 rep for this guide)

I didn't need to take the handbrake assembly off to get new studs for my 15mm spacers in. See below (you need to turn the hub as you line up the stud but it's simple to do):

http://forums.nissansportz.com/uploa..._77_174740.jpg

I hope that helps :)

Looks good! I don't know if the studs are longer on the rear 20mm spacers or not, but I found that removing the brake assembly was quick and painless anyways....

Nice to see Z's in the UK! My family is from Derbyshire....

so I guess in the end everyone (majority anyway) agree that the H&R DRS are the best bet, it makes sense to me why not to go with the DRM spacers............

H&R DRS 15/20 done today. No problems at all. I haven't had a car I cared to work on in ages. I love this thing.

Yup, less to worry about with the DRS (replacement studs). In fact on our cars we can't use the DRM for the fronts.

Man, I wish you'd stop by my house then - I'm still stuck trying to get the first rotor off the front passenger side. I think the assembly folks mistakenly used Lock-Tite instead of Anti-Seize on just about every single part of my car. :mad:

I had to give mine a pretty good whack to break it loose but no problem.

Well, I gave up on the front one until the Aerokroil arrives next week - moved to the rear set and can't manage to get the two 19mm bolts holding the brake in place to loosen up - not only did they use Lock-Tite, but I think the Incredible Hulk was doing a seminar on the assembly line that day. Sheesh! I might be getting on the phone tomorrow to get quotes on having this done! :shakes head:

I had to give all the bolts a pretty good whack too. It will all come loose given enough force. Just be careful. I made very sure the car was lifted up real solid and climbed into the wheel well and just beat on it a little. Hold the wrench tight so it doesnt get away and damage anything.
You can do it.

You're going to have to muscle it. Didn't have too much trouble with a 6-pt 1/2" socket and 18" ratchet. Definitely had to lean on it a little.

If it is anything like my car half the bolts on the drivers side were either cross-threaded or over torqued where as the passenger side was fine.

Bolts weren't a problem in the front because I could turn the rotors - have a nice 1/2" socket breaker bar (like 18") so plenty of leverage there - I can't seem to fit anything into the rear wheel well that gives me enough leverage not to mention one of the 19mm bolts in the rear has some cross arm blocking it so I can't really use a socket - stuck with a 19mm flare nut wrench for that one. I figured getting the rear ones off would be easy but torquing them back to 98 ft/lbs in that little space was going to be the challenge - boy was I wrong.

Hmm, think maybe I used a long 19mm box wrench on that one.

Wow.... I really had no issues doing mine. The car was really quite new though and had only 700kms on it... that might have helped. Box wrenches are best for the rear and give them a slight tap with a mallet if you need to get them moving.

Ok, progress is being made - had some spare time this evening and was able to get the front passenger side completely done. I'll need something like a 19mm XL GearWrench for the rears because the only reason I can get the front brake bolts loose is that I can turn the wheel and get plenty of leverage on it. By the time I get this done the exhaust should be here! :tup: