I busted the head off the first demon bolt I tried to break on the drivers side(top) lol.... How hard is it to get the rest of the bolt out?

Wondering if I should just put it back together and take it to a mufflee shop for them to finish.

The demons are the tough ones, some of the others are just in tight/awkward spots... On those, just get comfy under the car and find your patient side. Good luck.


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You don't need to get the rest of the bolt out, it will come apart with the head broke off. The heads usually break off on the demon bolts, both of mine did. And it was a glorious sound when they broke lol.

can you start with the top bolts first and then do the bolts connecting to the y pipe?

Yes. I broke all the bolts loose then snugged them lightly back down then started on the top bolts.

Picture links are broken, any way we could get them re-uploaded?

I second this. I just ordered Berk hfc for my g37

I third this- will be doing install by end of month. Im buying used, anyone know where I can get the hardware; Gaskets, bolts, etc?

I bought the gaskets and bolts from Berk technology. It's not on the website; you have to email them sales@berktechnology.com. They sold it all to me for $55 shipped. And it was delivered within 3 days

Actually did exactly that about an hour ago! Lol. Same price too.

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I would like the pictures fixed also I just recieved my New Berks HFC's and would like VISUAL aide for my install this weekend.

Just ordered the berk hfc, do I have to reset the ecu after install?

I didn't reset anything on my car when I had art pipes installed. Works fine, no issues.

Great thanks zbrah:tiphat:

Have had the Berk CBE and HFC installed for 3 years without any issues as well. Enjoy the sound!

Great thanks I should received today, looking forward to the challenge of the install this weekend, thanks for the help.

I highly suggest applying pb blaster on the bolts at least the night before and let them soak in over night to make things easier. I did that and my shop guy were able to get the bolts off within minutes.

My shop took my wheels off and then used a torch to heat the bolts. Much easier I think. Just have to be careful of some aluminum down there

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Ok thanks for the advice.

Yea, if they seize up real good you're going to need a torch handy.

Well, it took me the whole Saturday to install the berks hfc but well worth it. No strip bolts just two pain in the *** demon bolts that gave me a workout. Used a breaker bar for them. Note it is not needed to get an 02 sensor socket wrench I just used a large 22inch wrench and with some pb blaster it was a piece of cake. Sounds great don't miss my 07hr sound with the hks titanium exhaust anymore:driving:

:worthless:

:iagree:

(honestly, without pics, its still useful)........BUT......



:worthless:


:rofl2:

As an update: I found another site where OP still has the pics showing. Am I allowed to put the link in here? I hope so. I feel this would be very helpful to have the pics back for those of us that like to DIY.

IMO I would say yes. I used this thread about three years ago when I put my hi flow cats on, now I'm switching to stock and just going off of what I remember. Wouldn't mind seeing the original pics again.

Will post pics later instead since I'm not able to post the link

I've decided to try tackling this on my own. Two questions since pics aren't working and I wasn't able to get a definitive answer on google:
1. The demon bolts are the one top bolt on each cat, correct? For the other two bolts per cat, can someone confirm that I am able to reach them from beneath the car and should be able to break them loose with just my ratchet and socket?

2. Driver side, I was able to break the one by loose, so that's good, took one attempt, yay! The passenger side, I was able to break it loose, but as I used my ratchet to keep loosening it, at one point it stopped, and wouldn't budge. I then put the breaker bar back on, and I believe the bolt may be now be rounded as the socket keeps slipping (it's a 6pt 14mm socket), my only option would be to take it to a shop to get it cut off?

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I have the link to where the pictures are. Can't post link here, but pm me and I'll send it.

Thanks! Pm sent. I'm going to try the passenger side again, hoping I didn't round the head as it doesn't appear to be.

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Welcome. Pm'd back.

Try the Irwin bolt extractors... about $20 at Home Depot and some auto parts stores. They dig into rounded heads.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e892239c10.jpg


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I used this exact set after the drivers side demon bolt rounded. Worked fantastically, and I was able to get enough torque to snap the head of the bolt off.

Thanks guys! I'll pick up a set if the head is indeed rounded. I'll be taking a look in a few hrs

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Pick one up regardless... They are a great thing to have around the garage if you do your own work. =)

I always manage to need a tool 5 minutes after the store closes.

**update** so I removed all of the other bolts, and decided to give the passenger side demon bolt another try, because it was halfway out. I didn't use the universal joint up to this point, and that was my mistake lol I put it on, and it came out!

Test pipes are on the floor, O2 spacers installed, friend will be dropping off his O2 socket tmw, local parts store couldn't find any. I'll also be grabbing new bolts and nuts for the install as I got my pipes second hand, so no hardware.

All in all, wasn't bad.

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Just put mine in over the weekend! I've been looking at them/the box for 6 weeks and was a bit nervous about the demon bolts. Finally I said screw it and gave it a try, it really wasn't too bad.

Here are my tips:
1) PB Blast the heck out of everything. I can't say for certain that this helped, but for $4, it certainly didn't hurt.
2) Use the right tools! 1/2" drive where possible and only 6 pt. sockets! Make sure the socket is well seated before trying anything.
3) Remove the air box and tubes. A lot of guys talk about using a universal joint, but that eats up a lot of energy. With the air box and tubes out of the way, you can get a straight shot at the passenger side (use 1/2" parts). Driver's side is a bit more difficult, but doable. I used a 3/8" socket and 3" wobble extension against the bolt (you can't really use 1/2" drive as the steering column is in the way), then converted to 1/2" drive. A 3' breaker bar did the trick.

Took me and my wife (both lawyers...) about 3 hours from start to finish, so if a mechanic quotes you anything near that, don't walk, run!

My take away is that if you plan properly and use the right equipment, there is no need to be worried.

The result has been great. It's probably the largest "gain" from any bolt on I've ever installed. The VQ "hiss" is annoying from 3-2.5K, but it's a fair trade-off.

Agree with above. I removed my post maf tubes on both sides, had to for passenger bc my extension fell off and was trapped down there lol

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Couple Questions:

1) Which one is actually dubbed the "Demon Bolt"?

2) Besides the penetrating oil and maybe a bit of heat, is it better to use sheer force, or "shocking" the bolt by striking the end of extensions and breaker bar with a dead blow hammer?

I finally paid a shop to heat them loose ($400) 3 hrs. improved sound on the stillen hfc . In my opinion this was a not worth the money MOD. I have the extenders on the O2 sensors and still get the PO300 code every month. The demon comes back.:ugh2:

1) the top one on each side

2) Whatever works. I ended up using a gigantic breaker bar when our impact wrench failed to do the job.

Couple of notes: Take off your intakes so you can get to it without using swivels. Have bolt extractors on hand if you start rounding it off. The pass side came off relatively easy for us. The drivers side - took two of us hanging on the breaker bar before it finally just broke the stud off (which I consider a success).

Thanks Jayhovah, I'm actually installing Z1 CAIs with the HFCs. Two birds, One stone. Popped them out today. Didn't go as rough as I thought hearing all the horror stories.

I used a single hex socket with all 1/2" extensions on the passenger side. On the drivers side I used a short impact socket with a 3/8" extension of 3", then to a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, then 1/2" up to breaker bar. No swivel, and I suggest anyone doing this, do yourself a favor and remove your intake tube, you've got a straight shot.