Yes.

Thought I'd post in here to tell my Berk HFC install story thus far,

Today I spend about 2 hours trying to get the Stock Cats removed, using 3/8th inch extensions and several 14mm wrenches and sockets, and plenty of penetrating oil.

Got all of the bolts broken loose except for the two cursed bolts facing the headers and one of the two O2 sensors was being stubborn. The two cursed bolts wouldn't turn with the 20" worth of extensions, all of the torque was just lost in the extensions twisting, (even when I got it down to just 1 extension).

Also one of the O2 sensors didn't want to turn out, it broke loose and then stopped rotating, to the point where I started to round off the corners of the bolt, not sure what I'm going to do about that, put some penetrating oil on it and will retry.

After reading the full forum post, I went out and purchased some 1/2" extensions and am planning round 2 on Thursday Afternoon. If your reading this and going to do this mod, take my word for it 3/8" extensions are not good for those front facing bolts.

If anyone has any further suggestions, feel free to quote me. Thanks!

KBC

KBC
Yes there is some annoying flex using the 3/8 extension. When I did mine i was lucky enough to have a nice 1/2 breaker bar to which I added a small length of pipe over the end for leverage. I went to harbor freight and got some long 1/2 extensions and used an adapter at the end to be able to chose from several 3/8 sockets. Also handy is the "Irwin" stripped bolt removal socket kit that has spiral twisted inner edges that bite into stripped nuts/bolts... It got me out of a jam on one of the bolts.


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When I did mine the drivers side snapped loose fairly easily. The passenger side was a lot harder because i thought I had roundend it off and spent a lot of time and money buying things to try to grip it and drill it out. What finally worked on it was a swivel socket adapter. By using that it let me get the socket fully on the bolt and it broke loose. Btw i used 1/2" extensions and breaker bar with pipe attached.

Skipin Jupiter and Bryan 212.

Thank you both for you input and suggestions, it seems that a 1/2 breaker bar and extensions are the key to success. I was testing what I could reach today with my 1/2 inch extensions and I found I needed one mor. I was able to get the 6PT 14mm around the bolt with the extensions I have but had 0 clearance to really turn or attach a longer bar to my breaker bar. So it's back to the store for another extension and possibly that "Irwin Stripped Bolt Removal socket kit" as well, sbecause I got one turn out of the bolt and under further examination, it looks like I rounded the edges once. I was still able to get a bite from the socket after seeing the edges looked rounded. But better safe then sorry.

I will update on any further progress.


Thanks!

KBC

Alright I'm back again.

After trying 1/2 inch extensions, I have rounded off 1 bolt and have not moved the other bolt. I drove the car before trying to heat up the bolts, have put penetrating oil on both multiple times.


The error code that was thrown by my ECU is the P2A00, which is sensor 1 bank 1 error. So that's a $200 hurdle.

Does anyone have any other recommendations? My father is considering trying to pull off the side fender to get a short wrench directly on the bolt. not sure how that will work, gonna try all day Monday. Considering drilling out the bolt from the back just to get them off.

thanks,

KBC

DIY: Berk Technology HFC Install
 

KBC
you are in a position most of us thought about but didn't get stuck with (what if the the demon bolt wouldn't come off). Seems the majority of us had issues, but it finally would break loose or snap off.
On the rounded one, try an under sized socket with all the extensions and hammer it on to the bolt? I guess you already tried the Irwin bolt remover.
On the bolt that wouldn't budge get a longer pry bar. The logic would be its going to come loose, snap off or strip, but it's going to do something with enough leverage. Mine came lose, but it made such a pop I thought it broke.
The O2 sensor... Mine is a 2010 and I was surprised that they came off kind of easy... Good luck with that.
Just a note, since installing the HFC's it's never thrown a code, so once you are done you shouldn't have to worry about that.
Skip


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I couldn't get my passenger bolt off after over a week of trying so I drove it to a muffler shop and had them do it. They had snap-on tools that were apparently a lot better than mine. I brought my extensions just in case they didn't have enough to get to it. His swivel socket worked better than mine because it stayed straight as you guided it down to the bolt, where mine fell at a 90 degree angle and I couldn't get it on the bolt. He put a pipe on his rachet and put a lot of force on it and it broke the head off the bolt. I ask what I owed him and he said don't worry about it. I gave him a 20 and thanked the hell out of him, drove it home and finished the install. If I remember right he used 3/8" everything.

Quick update,

Finally got the two demon bolts off.

The bolt that was rounded off, tried extractor tool on it, extractor tool rounded off instead of grabbing bolt. Then tried to tap on a smaller diameter socket, no dice, so we ended up cutting the head off and grinding at the bolt for about 3 hours worth of grinding and checking and grinding and it was a joy when if finally came free.

The other demon bolt, added a universal joint to get past the steering column with 1/2 inch extensions and the baby snapped clean off. I was so happy I almost cried. No exaggeration.

The O2 sensor that didn't come out easy? Seemed to be cross threaded from the factory, there was a giant bubble of sorts connecting 3 rows of the threads. After not being able to find a dye big enough, we took a file to the bubble in the threads and made it fit well enough to screw into Berk HFC's and let it be.

Thank you to everybody who helped and made suggestings.

KBC

KBC
Good news, thanks for the update.
Enjoy!


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I busted the head off the first demon bolt I tried to break on the drivers side(top) lol.... How hard is it to get the rest of the bolt out?

Wondering if I should just put it back together and take it to a mufflee shop for them to finish.

The demons are the tough ones, some of the others are just in tight/awkward spots... On those, just get comfy under the car and find your patient side. Good luck.


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You don't need to get the rest of the bolt out, it will come apart with the head broke off. The heads usually break off on the demon bolts, both of mine did. And it was a glorious sound when they broke lol.

can you start with the top bolts first and then do the bolts connecting to the y pipe?

Yes. I broke all the bolts loose then snugged them lightly back down then started on the top bolts.