Agree with above. I removed my post maf tubes on both sides, had to for passenger bc my extension fell off and was trapped down there lol

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Couple Questions:

1) Which one is actually dubbed the "Demon Bolt"?

2) Besides the penetrating oil and maybe a bit of heat, is it better to use sheer force, or "shocking" the bolt by striking the end of extensions and breaker bar with a dead blow hammer?

I finally paid a shop to heat them loose ($400) 3 hrs. improved sound on the stillen hfc . In my opinion this was a not worth the money MOD. I have the extenders on the O2 sensors and still get the PO300 code every month. The demon comes back.:ugh2:

1) the top one on each side

2) Whatever works. I ended up using a gigantic breaker bar when our impact wrench failed to do the job.

Couple of notes: Take off your intakes so you can get to it without using swivels. Have bolt extractors on hand if you start rounding it off. The pass side came off relatively easy for us. The drivers side - took two of us hanging on the breaker bar before it finally just broke the stud off (which I consider a success).

Thanks Jayhovah, I'm actually installing Z1 CAIs with the HFCs. Two birds, One stone. Popped them out today. Didn't go as rough as I thought hearing all the horror stories.

I used a single hex socket with all 1/2" extensions on the passenger side. On the drivers side I used a short impact socket with a 3/8" extension of 3", then to a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, then 1/2" up to breaker bar. No swivel, and I suggest anyone doing this, do yourself a favor and remove your intake tube, you've got a straight shot.

has anyone had the VDC light come on after install? ...checked for exhaust leaks...disconnected the battery to reset ECU... did the manual ECU reset (series of pumping the accelerator pedal, etc.)... the VDC light remains illuminated... any thoughts on what may be causing this?

-update- VDC light was from steering wheel angle sensor. I disconnected the steering knuckle while installing the driver's side HFC and had to spin it around to reconnect it. The only way I could find to reset it was a Nissan Consult function mentioned in the FSM. I tried Nissan Data Scan III coupled with a bluetooth OBD diagnostic scanner (OBDlinx LX), but Nissan Data Scan II is the only version that has the Work Support functions for the ABS system (which is where Steering Wheel Angle Sensor Reset is located). I had to take the car to the dealer to reset the sensor, for which they charged me for one hour of labor.

Anyway we could get the pics re uploaded?

I forgot to get pictures of taking off from the start, but I have some in my thread I can link here if need be. Driver side was a pain in the butt.

I will say, I've read how the berk gaskets don't seem to hold up well. My passenger side one currently "ripped?" so car sounds terrible. Ordered the Z1 gaskets, won't be able to install until I get back home in sept -_-