DIY: Challenge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
 

Note: The majority of this DIY can be done by one person, however, a second person will be needed for the last step, bleeding the brakes. It can be your friend, wife, or even grandmother as long as they have the ability to push the brake pedal.

Estimated install time = 1 hour
Difficulty = Easy

Tools Needed:
- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands
- Tire Iron or whatever is needed to remove your lug nuts
- 10mm open ended wrench
- 12mm wrench or socket
- 14mm open ended wrench
- Needle nose pliers
- Brake fluid catch bottle
- Rags or towels that you don’t mind ruining

Extra Materials Needed:
- Brake Fluid (2 bottles)

Step #1:
Loosen all lug nuts slightly while the car is on the ground. Don’t loosen them too much, just break them free so they will come off easily when the car is off the ground.

Step #2:
Jack the rear of the car up until the rear tires are off the ground and you can slide jack stands underneath the frame rails. Repeat for front tires until all four corners of the car are safely on jack stands. Once jack stands are in place, slowly lower the car onto the jack stands and remove jack from work space. Double check to ensure that the jackstands are properly placed and all four corners of the stands are firmly planted on the floor. I even like to give the car a nudge or two to make sure it doesn't move at all or fall off the stands before I get underneath it.

Step #3:
Remove all lug nuts and all four wheels. Set aside.

Step#4:
Open hood and locate the brake fluid housing. On the 370Z it is the panel on the driver’s side marked brake fluid. Lift off the cover and underneath you will find the brake fluid reservoir.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/cbldiy1.jpg

Step#5:
We will start with the front brake lines. First, place your rags or towel on the ground underneath the brake line area as they will leak fluid once you start loosening bolts. Take your 10mm open ended wrench and loosen the two fittings that connect the hard lines to the rubber line that will be replaced. Loosen the two fittings all the way so they are disconnected. Take your needle nose pliers and remove the retainer clip holding the factory rubber brake line in place. Next remove the two 12mm bolts holding the rest of the brake line on the car and remove the brake line.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/cbldiy2.jpg
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/cbldiy3.jpg

Step #6:
Immediately install the Challenge stainless steel brake line in its place by reversing the process, however there is a certain order this should be done in to avoid headaches. First, hook up the end of the factory hard brake line that connects to the caliper into the metal block on the new Challenge brake line using your 10mm open ended wrench. Next, attach the block to the mounting bracket with the stock 12mm nut. Use your 14mm open ended wrench to tighten the braided line into the metal block. This will not be easily done unless the other end of the brake line is not connected to anything. Once that is done, connect the other end of the brake line to the factory hard line using the 10mm fitting, then re-install the factory clip using the needle nose pliers again. Use the mounting tab on the Challenge brake line to mount to your suspension via the other 12mm nut. Double check to make sure all of the connections are tight, but be careful not to over-tighten as the factory fittings are easily stripped. Once the new line is completely installed wipe off any excess brake fluid that is left on any parts of the car. Last, check the brake fluid reservoir and re-fill up to the max fluid level line.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/cbldiy4.jpg

Step #7:
Repeat setps #5 and #6 for the other front line.

Step #8:
Now we will move on to the rear lines. They are done very similarly to the fronts. Again, remember to lay towels or rags on the floor beneath your work area to catch dripping brake fluid. Loosen the two 10mm fittings on both ends of the factory rubber lines. Remove the 12mm bolt and the clip holding the factory line onto the car and remove the stock rubber brake line. Re-install the 10mm fitting closest to the caliper into the metal block on the new Challenge brake line. Attach the new brake line to the car via the 12mm bolt, leaving the other end of the line detached. Tighten the 14mm fitting on the new brake line to the metal block. Re-install the other 10mm fitting on the other end of the brake line and re-install the factory retainer clip. Double check to make sure your connections are tight, remembering not to over-tighten and strip the factory fittings. Wipe up any excess fluid and re-fill your brake fluid reservoir as necessary.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/cbldiy5.jpg

Step #9:
Repeat step #8 for other rear line.

Step #10:
Once you have successfully installed all four Challenge stainless steel braided brake lines, it is time to bleed your braking system. Bleeding your brakes is the process of getting any air bubbles out of your brake system. Air bubbles in your brake lines can result in your brake pedal going to the floor and as you can imagine, can have serious concequences. Bleeding your brakes is not hard, so don’t let it scare you, but it is necessary for proper brake function. This is the part where you go get grandma or whoever else you have ready to help you. You will also need some sort of brake fluid catch can and clear rubber hose. I highly recommend a brake bleeder catch bottle like the ones from Longacre Racing…
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/longacrebottle.jpg


Step #11:
Have your helper sit in the driver’s seat of the car and make sure the window is down or the door is open so you can communicate back and forth. Whenever bleeding brakes, always start with the corner that is farthest away from the brake fluid reservoir, in this case, that corner is the passenger side rear. On the brake caliper you will see a bleeder valve that looks like this…
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/cbldiy6.jpg

There are two of these on each caliper. The one on the outside (pictured) and another one on the other side of the caliper. Both bleeder valves will be covered with a black rubber cap. Remove the rubber caps and slip one end of your clear bleeder hose over the bleeder valve. Place the other end of your hose into your catch can. Position your 10mm open ended wrench on the bottom of the bleeder valve, but do not loosen. Instruct your helper to pump the brakes 3-4 times and then hold them in the depressed position. Make sure he/she lets you know when they are holding the brakes. While they are holding, loosen the bleeder valve just a ¼ turn or however much it takes for fluid to start coming out. When you loosen the bleeder valve, the brake pedal will go to the floor but make sure your partner continues to depress it. Let the fluid drain out for 1-2 seconds and then re-tighten the bleeder valve. Have your helper pump the brakes another 3-4 times then hold. Repeat the process until there are no more air bubbles coming out into your clear hose. Next, move on to the second bleeder valve on the caliper and do the same thing. Once you have bled the air out of that caliper, re-fill your brake fluid reservoir as necessary. Make sure to check your brake fluid reservoir often during the process. If you drain it too much you will start sucking air back into the system and you will have to start over. Always keep the brake fluid level between the minimum and maximum level lines.

Step #12:
Repeat step #11 with the left rear, then the right front, and finally the left front. By the time you are done your brakes pedal should feel back to normal or even harder than they were before. Thank your helper, their job is done.

Step #13:
With the new lines on and the brake system bled, you are ready to put the wheels back on. Put your wheels back on and tighten the lug nuts as much as possible while the car is in the air. Lower the car back to the ground. Once on the ground, torque your lug nuts to your desired specs. (I go 80 ft.lbs.)

Step #14:
Before you drive your car, make sure that there is nothing in your immediate path just in case there is still air in your lines. Slowly start moving your car and test your brakes. Use common sense to make sure to avoid any possible disasters should your brake pedal go to the floor in the event there is still air in your lines. If you do still have air in your lines you must re-bleed your brakes making sure that ALL of the air bubbles are out.

Please do this install at your own risk. Double Down Motorsports does not hold any responsibility for problems that may occur due to installing these parts on your vehicle. As always, it is recommended to have a professional install these parts.

Thank you.

Haha...I like how you color coded the hardware. Very nice.

lol yes, installation for dummies :).

awesome DIY thanks!! +1 :tup:

Quick question. The brake bleeding needs to be done with the car running, correct? Or can it be done with the car turned off? Sorry for a potentially stupid question.

It can be done with the car turned off.

In process of installing ss lines- any torque values other than don't strip the factory- the "generic" statement on the ss line says Min 12 ft lb max 16 ft lb-

Nope, just use caution not to over-tighten.

could we redo the photos? they are apparently no longer located at the location the OP put them at

Done

Thanks! Rep :tup:

Excellent write-up! I happen to be changing to SS brake lines today.

Dummy question...
I'm also changing to DOT4 fluid...should I completely drain all DOT3 brake fluid first prior to taking off the factory rubber hoses? If so, should I be draining from the bleed valves off each caliper until empty, or is there a simpler way?

You should be alright mixing DOT3 and DOT4. Its the full silicon DOT5 that you have to worry about.

subscribed for my project!

Stupid question, but why do you say to refill the brake fluid reservoir between installing each line. Won't it all just drain out each time then? That's what it seemed like happened when I removed first line.

Should I just ignore this anyway since I'm going to be putting in DOT4 fluid? I should just do that at the end and not refill between each line install?

You want to plug the line as best you can when you do the change over, I lost only a few drops of brake fluid.

You don't want to let the fluid drain free as this will introduce air into the ABS controller leaving you in a state where you are unable to bleed all the air out of the system without the assistance of the Nissan Consult III.

^^What he said. It's all to not let any air into the system through the reservoir.

So I didn't fill in between each brakeline swap, but I did bleed each brake several times, and didn't have any bubbles. I took it out for a test drive and the new lines feel great, much more precise and not really spongy at all any more... so I'm guessing I'm fine? I did only use one bottle (1.05liter) of RBF600 though.

Also this took me way longer than an hour...:rofl2:, more like 8 hours! I even had to go to the store to buy some PB Blaster to loosen one of the bolts, thing just wouldn't budge!

Yeah, you should be fine. Just to make sure jump on the brakes as hard as possible to engage ABS.

Which bolt? There shouldn't have been anything on the brake line on there that tight. The tightest one I encountered was the flare fitting to the hard-line, but as long as you cracked that before removing the clip it was fine.

It was the one the right green arrow would be pointing to:
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/cbldiy3.jpg It has some surface rust on it, so yeah...

I did engage ABS once, and did work, but I haven't ever engaged ABS before on this car, so I can't say whether it felt "normal" or not. But it did feel like I remember ABS feeling in a previous car, the little stuttering it does with the wheels to stop it from locking.

The ABS pulses at a fairly high frequency so you don't feel much through the pedal other than a bit of extra resistance. Sounds like you are good to go.

Okay, cool! Actually you are right, it wasn't the feel that I normally felt with ABS from other cars, but the sound, that's where I could hear and feel the tires stuttering. The actual brake pedal felt pretty smooth during it.

Hey Mike - raising this from the dead. I got my free Goodridge Phantom lines on finally this past weekend, and I wanted to add some insight.

First: For the 10MM fittings on both ends - I do NOT recommend using a normal 10MM wrench to get them. Mine were just slipping away on them. The best purchase I ever made years ago (which also helps a ****-ton w/ bleeding the lines btw), was this 10/12MM combination wrench. It'll wrap all the way around the fitting, and prevent rounding the fitting off.

http://images108.fotki.com/v360/phot...MG_0232-vi.jpg

Also, fair warning: the bolts holding on one of the blocks I think on the rear (maybe...) is attached to a bracket next to the shock. Not surprisingly, you can easily bend that bracket while trying to loosen it, so I just put a crescent wrench in between it and the shock, to prevent it from moving around.

http://images110.fotki.com/v109/phot...MG_0239-vi.jpg

Other than that, don't think I had anything else to add. PB blaster is nice but that wrench I have made its use not needed at all, in the end :)

do both bleeder valves need to be bled at the same time? I keep getting air when switching either from the inner to the outer valve or vice versa.

One at a time is fine. Is a second person helping you (pressing on the brakes)? If so, have them pump the brakes 3 or 4 times, then you bleed them, but tighten the nut before your assistant puts the pedal to the floor. In fact, if you have a small block of wood, place it under the brake pedal to prevent that from happening, otherwise, if he lets off on the brakes before you tighten the nut, it could let some air in. Also make sure the reservoir has enough fluid while you're doing this. It may take several tries to get all the air out because of how the lines run.

We've been pumping 3-4 times and holding the pedal in after the last pump, then opening the valves. After the air goes out, tighten the valve; then let off the pedal. This is what everyone has advised, but I don't know why we still have air

How many times did you repeat the process on each side (inside and outside)? Sometimes you need to do it lots of times before you see no more bubbles in the tube.

You may just have a lot of air in the lines...especially if you're doing the rear calipers. The best $60 you may ever spend is on a Motive Power brake bleeder. Makes the chore of bleeding a mindless one-man job.

I second the need for a 10mm flare wrench. I've rounded all kinds of the hardlines and I've since ordered new hardlines for my next brake bleed (only about $40). Do yourself a favor and go get a 10mm flare from Autozone before you round all the 10mm fittings.

Did it about a dozen times each caliper. No air now, but pedal feels soft. I installed stoptech lines, anyone have experience with them?

Hmmm wierd. Maybe some air in the ABS system? Usually you want to bleed the inner valve first, then the outer.

Yeah, tried inner valve first, outer valve first, and both at the same time. Went through 3.5 bottles of motul for the install and the two times bleeding the brakes. At this point I think I need to schedule an appointment with nissan...

Dumb question Eagle...you DID do both bleeder valves on each caliper, right?

On both fronts, yes.

There are 2 on the rear, also.

http://www.nissanraceshop.com/image/...4001-1ea1a.jpg

You can see it in this pic, barely, on the bottom right of the bottom caliper, and also the top right.

Didn't see a 2nd bleeder on the rears, gonna take another look...

:shakes head: god, i can't believe both my friend and i missed this...
gonna do another (3rd) bleed tomorrow and hopefully that's a wrap.
Thanks for pointing this out MightyBobo!

You wouldnt be the first to miss it. Hope it fixes your problems!

It was the 2nd bleeder valve on the rear calipers. The brakes feel so much better now. Thanks again guys, good DIY Bonanni.