subd thanks!

Just installed SS lines today. I have an issue with my rear passenger line. It was the last one I installed and did everything the same as the others. However after getting everything bolted up with the new SS line and inserting the clip. I noticed the hard line that connects to the SS line at the clip was seeping fluid. I tried loosening and reseating it and retightening to no avial. I then tried to tighten it more hoping it would seal. It looks like the SS line is crushed where the hard line seats.

Anyone else have this issue. Or know of anything else I can try?

Right now I am waiting to hear back Monday if I can get a new rear SS line without having to buy a whole new set. Hopefully I can get one in time for Z Nationals.

Sounds like you'll need a new line.

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet

I have been postponing this for about a year.

Yea. I put the stock line back on and so far no leaks. Hopefully I'll be able to order a single line in the morning.

Been perusing this discussion and I'll chime in a little from over 40 years working on cars and bleeding brakes. First let's talk about brake fluid.
1. DOT 3 will interchange with DOT 4 and DOT 5.1. Never mix DOT 5.0 with any street car. It's really designed for cars are used as collector cars such as show hot rods and will hardly ever be used on the street. As mentioned, it compresses but does not absorb moisture like the DOT 3,4, & 5.1 will. Also you would have to flush out the entire brake system from any residual old fluid to got to DOT 5.1. It can play havoc on your brake system seals everywhere. I would never use anything today less than DOT 4.
2. Bleed your brakes every year if possible and if you track your car, preferably after every track weekend. If you do that, you will give yourself a greater chance of never really experiencing any seal failures in your brake system because of corrosion from water which all DOT 3,4, & 5.1 fluids will absorb over time. And for you manual shifters out there, don't forget you clutch master and slave cylinders as well. Cheap insurance.
3. Use a good quality fluid such as MOTUL RB 600 and the like especially if you track the car. These fluids have a higher wet and dry boiling points and resists producing air bubbles when taxed real hard. And remember even on the streets, you can bring up your rotor temps to over 800+ degrees depending on how you use them. Don't skimp here, it could mean your life.
4. Purchase a good set of flare wrenches. They work great for the brake system nuts and bolts but also work great on some other nuts and bolts which maybe a little corroded and are hard to turn. Reduces rounding off of nuts and bolts by a bunch.
5. Stainless steel brake lines. Really the main resistance to expansion comes from the PFE -3 tube which is surrounded by the stainless steel braid to add extra protection and comply with DOT specs. I've seen this same material without the braid used in high pressure fuel injection systems on engines and they have resisted pressures equal to or greater than a brake system produces. Great stuff. And yes they are much better than an old set of OEM brake lines unless the factory has also installed them.
6. When bleeding fixed calipers I've heard and have followed the practice of bleeding the other bleed screw and then the inner one. Also the sequence is different for the Nissan series of cars. For the entire car, bleed the passenger rear first, passenger front, driver rear and then driver front. That's the last I heard from my dealer. However if all else fails, bleed the rears first (passenger, driver) and then the fronts in the same fashion. If in doubt, find out form the manual or ask your service department. Also make sure that you apply no power to your engine or car while doing this. The normal ABS system must not be turned on while bleeding the system and doesn't need to be. Put that key FOB on your workbench and the car completely turned off.
7. Use any brake bleeding method you want. Just make sure you keep the master cylinder always full while doing so and then when finished keep the level between the Min-Max.
8. Another little tip I've found which helps reduce brake fluid leaking everywhere when changing brake lines. You remember those little bleed screw covers on the calipers? Well take one off and then break the brake line loose where the hard line connects to it. Soon as you get the hard line off quickly put this bleed screw cover on the hard line and it will stop the fluid from leaking all day long. Don't worry, there is enough play to move the hard line up and away from the connection to do this. You can then take your time working your way back to the caliper to disconnect and reconnect the rest of the line without the fluid leaking everywhere around you and possibly draining your master cylinder completely dry without rushing to do it.

It's not that difficult and gets easier every time you do it. Good luck and enjoy your cars.

Al

Got the new brake line on and so far no leaks. However the clip on the rear passenger side that holds the line onto the hard line us being a PITA. Any tips or suggestions on how to get it on? The other 3 went back on without any issues. Really don't want to damage a second line forcing the clip back on.

Get it started manually so that it's in the notch of the new line above the bracket. From there simply the clip it with a small ball-peen hammer gently but steadily and it will slowly work its way in until it's nice and tight. It's better to be slightly tight then way too loose. And yes, not all the hard line connectors are machined exactly the same as they are made. I've experienced an entire set of new stainless steel lines which I had to do the procedure above. Just make sure you hit the clip and not the hard line.

Al

P.S. Really a hammer works here. :tup:

Pictures no worky

+1^ Any chance the original member can fix the photo links? Seems very helpful for a sticky DIY

Pics aren't working :(

Thanks for this DIY, it helped me during my install!

Premium Z1 lines came in. Quick question. What lines go to the back? Is it the shortest ones?

Can anyone confirm? I have both of the longer lines on the front. I just want to double check before I move to the next corner. Its close, but I'm worried about having enough slack for suspension travel.

DIY: Challenge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
 

Well my mistake is your knowledge: The shorter line with the block is for the front, coupled with the longer line with no block. The longer line with the block is for the rear.

Here is a stock vs ss line comparison. Front on top, rear on bottom:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a665d29532.jpg