Attachment 35992
took 4 hours i would not reccomend the mequires ultimate polish or wax polish dried really hard after 5 seconds and took several wax tries to get it off witch left wet looking streak went back to useing the other meguires wax
Attachment 35993 he was happy


THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP MINE IS NEXT !

If you are going to continue polishing your cars or other cars, invest in a bottle of Meguair's M105 and M205. They are fantastic polishes.

iv got the meguairs swirl remover 2.0 on the way gonne use that after the clay

That stuff is ok...still has fillers in it so you're really not "removing" anything. And to be completely honest, most polishes has a filling effect to them, that's why you have to do IPA wipedowns to ensure you don't leave any oil residue on the surface that could mask minor defects.

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The M105 and 205 are part of their "prosumer" line and are much better than the Meguiar's stuff you'll find in your typical auto parts store.

will try next year lol gonna clay and use the swirwl remover then wax XD

Hey Guys,

Good info on there. I am in the process of looking to be more involved in my car care paint finish and have been reading about what is best. It seems the Porter Cable mentioned is best for beginners, and there is tons of info on polishes and waxes it seems. My main questions come from exactly what pad to use for a Polish and for Waxing/Sealants. Also, has anyone used the Mothers 3 step program ive read about? Basically just a prewax cleaner, glaze and wax..
Also, when you are going to buff off the residue from polishes/waxes, do you have to do this by hand (Microfiber Towel) or can you put on a microfiber bonnet on the polisher to do this? Thanks for any info...

There is no specific pad/polish combination because many pads can be used with many different polishes. For example, M105 can be used with a wool pad for heavy correcting or a light compounding pad for work that doesn't need wool. As far as applying liquid waxes or sealants, some people will use a finishing pad, but it's best to remove it by hand with a plush MF towel, not a machine.

So how'd you like that #9? Don't know about that filler comment but I know when I use it on a white 91 camery that hasn't been taken care of... I get a white residue on the blue towl I'm using.

In my opinion as far as polishers go... Don't use them. I have a milwakee heavy duty polisher. I've used my dad's rinky dink polisher too. I hate both. The milwakee will burn thru the paint on corners in an instant. The little rinky dink POS won't even take dried wax off. I'm done with them. When I'm too old to do it myself... I'll pawn it off on my kids LOL!

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Polishers are a needed tool to do any kind of paint correction. If you can't use a polisher correctly, then yes you can burn through paint, especially on edges, but don't make a statement to not use them just because you've had bad experiences with them. I have a PC that is next to impossible to burn through paint and I also have a Dewalt rotary polisher that can spin up to 3000 rpms. I've never had an issue with either. You just have to be careful and pay attention to what you're doing.

The color coding on the pads seem pretty universal -- white for very light correction, yellow for more umph, etc. The blue or red pads are good for applying wax or sealant. You can use a microfiber bonnet to remove the wax residue, but it's easier to just do it by hand since the bonnet gets saturated with wax very quickly and needs to be changed to be effective.

My point is more that if you're not a professional detailer, your probably better off not using it. I've also seen swirl marks on a ton of cars done by "professionals" No thanks, I like my paint swirl free. I've painted my cars and my friends cars, color sanded polished etc... all by hand. Yeah, it's a lot of work but they were beutifull vehicles when I was done with them. I would not recommend learning how to use a polisher on a new car.

I agree if by polisher you mean a rotary polisher. A dual action (DA)polisher, like the Porter Cable is plenty safe, even if you're not a "professional." As with anything, you need to learn how to do it properly. The Porter Cable DA polisher and even the Flex polisher, aren't as agressive as a rotary which gives even us "non-pro's" less of a chance of causing damage. If your "pro" caused swirl marks after you had it detailed, it means he wasn't really a pro. It's a proven and effective way of removing swirl marks by real profesionals on new and old cars. Browse through the Detailer Domain detail write up's and you'll see what I mean.

Not trying to sell any product here... just throwing out my opinion, that all.