Thanks for all your help, peeps. This is a really good thread for complete newbies. I have myself a shopping list and I'll be happier knowing I'm doing things right.

^_^

Dry with an electric leaf blower, the less you touch the paint the better.

tanooki- i just saw your thread and didn't read the entire thread, but those buckets you got are too small! :D hahaha. you need minimum 5 gallon capacity and place grit guard on the bottom.

i personally use two griot's buckets with casters. has a grill on the bottom as well. great tool.

http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/Grio...0_FAM?$detail$

You should check out the whole thread. He's straight now. ;)

Fancy bucket you got there. Where's the cupholders?

They are on the fancy chair that comes with the bucket. :D

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/tolae_2140_60672861

:icon18:

LOL!


dayam!~ :D i dont use a creeper chair when i detail.... just knee pleasers (foam mats).

Hey Junkman et all,

First of all I want to say you are “the man” when it comes to detailing cars. I have watched many of your videos and the results you produce are out of this world.

Like Super Tanooki, I recently bought a new 2011 GM 370Z in February and now it requires a wash. I have been holding off washing it until I get all the proper supplies

I am new to detailing – but take pride in what I own and make sure it looks as good as much as possible. With that being said I have a couple of things that I would like to ask you about washing and detailing

I am condensing the steps to move to my point quicker. (Feel free the add steps if you think they are vital to the process)

Step 1: 2 Bucket Wash System – I have ordered all the proper supply’s to wash the car

Step 2: Drying the car – Sheeting + air dry (spot dry with waffle towels). Now are Adam’s microfiber towels okay for this process?) No chinese towels

Step 3: Get Shiny – I want to bring the shine out in the new paint job. What is the best thing for my new car?
a) Just add some detail spray and dry it off with a microfiber towels
b) Superb Glaze and Carnauba Wax application
c) Machine Superwax?

Even with my new paint - Do I need to clay the car before b) or c)?
The Nissan dealership added a paint sealant to my car – do I need to change the prep before I attempt any waxes?

Supplies I ordered from Adams

• Adam’s Starter PC polishing kit
• Wash Trio
• Second Wash Mit
• Gallon of Detail Spray
• Grit Guards
• 2nd Tub of clay
• Foam Gun from AutoGeek
• Brass quick dis-connect
I already for the 5 gallon pales and Toro Leaf-blower

( I probably should have gotten the premium kit as I didn’t get any paste wax with my order – opps)

Before I hit the 370 with the PC, I am going to perfect my technique on my DD. I have a case of the swirls for in-correctly washing it over the past 5 years.

Many thanks.

I am about to put on a detailing clinic in Atlanta this morning. I will answer your post in detail this evening when I return to my hotel. There are some key things that need explaining. In the mean time, you need to watch the first 5 videos and the first 2:45 of the 6th video of this video series again, hopefully before I reply this evening. There is some clarity that you need to have so that my response will be clear.

-oops nvm

Thanks Junkman.

Thanks for pointing me to the sticky thread. I re-watched the videos and it answered many of the questions I was posing to you. Also in hindsight, I shouldn't have condensed the steps. So here they are

Step 1: Rinse
Step 2: Foam the car down and let it soak in
Step 3: Wash the car - 2 Bucket System
Step 4: Inspect the paint
(Since I have a new car, I was assuming that everything would be okay). I will check the paint over with the baggy to see what imperfections I am dealing with

From your thread:

If your paint is in excellent shape with very minor swirls or scratches, you may be able to skip the use of the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) and go straight from claying to the Fine Machine Polish (FMP). If your paint does not need to be clayed (which is determined by the baggie test), then you can start with SHR. If your paint does not need claying and only has very, very little paint damage, you may be able to skip both claying and SHR and start with FMP. All this will make much more sense once you watch the videos and see the order that the products are used. Thus, take them in first, and come back to this paragraph after you have finished. It will all become clear to you at that point.

For those who want to implement Revive Polish into this routine, it would come right after FMP. I usually use Revive Polish when doing very dark colors to give the paint that last touch of finesse.

There are 2 other waxes that you can use in place of Machine Superwax (MSW, which is what I used in these videos). There's the Americana Carnuba Paste Wax and the Buttery Wax. Either can be used in place of MSW. The Americana goes on fast and comes off fast. You don't wait for it to dry or haze. If you do, you will need a chisel to remove it! It does not protect as long as MSW but it does last quite a while depending on how often you wash the car and whether or not the car is garaged or not.

Buttery Wax goes on easy and comes off easy. You will allow it to dry before removing it. It does not last as long as the Americana or MSW, however, it is easy to apply and remove. MSW is the longest lasting protection that Adam's has to date as it is more of a sealant. It also has the ability to mask very small imperfections in your paint.

One more time on the order!

1. Clay
2. SHR
3. FMP
4. Revive Polish (if you want - was not used in this video series).
5. One of the three waxes of your choice.

So now that we have cleared up the order. What is the bext wax to use machine wax or hand wax?

In the end, my real concern was hitting the new car with PC. As you mentioned in your videos, the polish is actually removing some of the clear-coat, so I am hesitant to do this on a brand new car. I was hoping for a miracle cure that would be wash the car and apply wax - presto instant shiny car.

Few more questions: So we clay the car and hit it with FMP and then apply wax. Assuming the wax lasts a few months, for re-application of the wax do we need to go through all the steps again? ( Clay to wax)
What are your thoughts on quick spray waxes?

You need to clarify the term "best wax". If you are asking which wax provides the longest protection, then the answer is Machine Superwax. It needs to be applied with a PC-7424. If you are asking which wax applied by hand will last the longest, then your answer is Americana. No wax makes your paint shine but different types of waxes add different characteristics to your shine. So again, the answer to your question depends on the exact results you're trying to achieve. That's why I say that you must be more specific.

In the field of detailing, your mind is in the infant stages of discovery. You have just been unplugged from the Matrix and all of this stuff is rather confusing and daunting to you. In reality, it is very simple and once you obtain the knowledge, you will realize just how simple it is. I say all that to get this point across. The is NO miracle product in a bottle. That simplistic way of thinking is what guys who buy their detailing supplies from Auto Zone, Pep Boys and Costco do. You are now beyond that point and are seeking advice on how to best care for your automobile.

Since that is the case, you need to start thinking on a professional level. There would be no detailers in the world if all you had to do is wipe something on a car and then presto, instant shine. This is somewhat of an art form, but it is an easy one to learn for those who take the time to seek out the knowledge. You are on that road now. Don't look back.

I could go into a lengthy post on why you have nothing to worry about concerning the PC, but that's why I made this video series. Apparently, you have not seen all of my videos. The one that I linked to is one of the most important concerning the PC and is a must see for novices to machine polishing. After watching that series, you will quickly realize just how much your concern about the PC is a non-factor.

Again, this is covered in the series you just watched and you even mentioned it earlier in your post. You clay when the baggie test shows that you need to clay. Not before, only after. The bag is the gauge that you use to determine when claying is necessary. If the bag shows that claying is NOT necessary, then you don't do it. The same is true in the opposite scenario. Use the gauge and react to the results that you get.

The gauge for polishing is your eyes. Polishing removes scratches and other damage from your paint. Thus, if you LOOK at your paint and see damage, then you need to polish. If there is no damage and your paint has no dullness to it, then you DON'T need to polish it. Use the gauge that is your eyes. Only you and whomever may be standing next to your can answer the question as to what needs to be done to your paint.


I would have to answer that on a case by case basis, after looking at what the product claims to do. If the product states that it will protect the car for 6 months and is made up of 50% water, then I would call BS. You have to be specific when asking a question like this because all products can't be painted with one brush.

Thank you for taking the time to review my issues. Your videos are very useful and will have to watch them a few times before I get started on my work.
[QUOTE=Junkman2008;1044502]
Again, this is covered in the series you just watched and you even mentioned it earlier in your post. You clay when the baggie test shows that you need to clay. Not before, only after. The bag is the gauge that you use to determine when claying is necessary. If the bag shows that claying is NOT necessary, then you don't do it. The same is true in the opposite scenario. Use the gauge and react to the results that you get.

The gauge for polishing is your eyes. Polishing removes scratches and other damage from your paint. Thus, if you LOOK at your paint and see damage, then you need to polish. If there is no damage and your paint has no dullness to it, then you DON'T need to polish it. Use the gauge that is your eyes. Only you and whomever may be standing next to your can answer the question as to what needs to be done to your paint.


Can you clarify something for me.. as you stated, if I don't need to clay and if the paint is in good shape and has no damage - I don't need to polish, can you go straight the MSW? Or will you always have to FMP ( at a minimum and then MSW)


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Sweet Z
What are your thoughts on quick spray waxes?

I would have to answer that on a case by case basis, after looking at what the product claims to do. If the product states that it will protect the car for 6 months and is made up of 50% water, then I would call BS. You have to be specific when asking a question like this because all products can't be painted with one brush.

I have some meguire's quik spray wax, that is applied to the car during the drying process, it hazes up and wipe off. I think I have done more damage to my DD car with not using the right products ( chinese MF towels) and creating swirl city.

:iagree:

Yes you can go straight to MSW. I on the other hand would use FMP first because your paint will never be perfect unless you fix it and never touch the paint again.

If it is a Meguiar's product and the front of the bottle does not contain the words "Mirror Glaze", then you couldn't give me a free bottle of the stuff. OTC products need to leave your detailing arsenal . There are very few OTC products worth having. That is not one of them.

Where are the towels, that Adam's sells manufactured?