Thanks Junkman.

Thanks for pointing me to the sticky thread. I re-watched the videos and it answered many of the questions I was posing to you. Also in hindsight, I shouldn't have condensed the steps. So here they are

Step 1: Rinse
Step 2: Foam the car down and let it soak in
Step 3: Wash the car - 2 Bucket System
Step 4: Inspect the paint
(Since I have a new car, I was assuming that everything would be okay). I will check the paint over with the baggy to see what imperfections I am dealing with

From your thread:

If your paint is in excellent shape with very minor swirls or scratches, you may be able to skip the use of the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) and go straight from claying to the Fine Machine Polish (FMP). If your paint does not need to be clayed (which is determined by the baggie test), then you can start with SHR. If your paint does not need claying and only has very, very little paint damage, you may be able to skip both claying and SHR and start with FMP. All this will make much more sense once you watch the videos and see the order that the products are used. Thus, take them in first, and come back to this paragraph after you have finished. It will all become clear to you at that point.

For those who want to implement Revive Polish into this routine, it would come right after FMP. I usually use Revive Polish when doing very dark colors to give the paint that last touch of finesse.

There are 2 other waxes that you can use in place of Machine Superwax (MSW, which is what I used in these videos). There's the Americana Carnuba Paste Wax and the Buttery Wax. Either can be used in place of MSW. The Americana goes on fast and comes off fast. You don't wait for it to dry or haze. If you do, you will need a chisel to remove it! It does not protect as long as MSW but it does last quite a while depending on how often you wash the car and whether or not the car is garaged or not.

Buttery Wax goes on easy and comes off easy. You will allow it to dry before removing it. It does not last as long as the Americana or MSW, however, it is easy to apply and remove. MSW is the longest lasting protection that Adam's has to date as it is more of a sealant. It also has the ability to mask very small imperfections in your paint.

One more time on the order!

1. Clay
2. SHR
3. FMP
4. Revive Polish (if you want - was not used in this video series).
5. One of the three waxes of your choice.

So now that we have cleared up the order. What is the bext wax to use machine wax or hand wax?

In the end, my real concern was hitting the new car with PC. As you mentioned in your videos, the polish is actually removing some of the clear-coat, so I am hesitant to do this on a brand new car. I was hoping for a miracle cure that would be wash the car and apply wax - presto instant shiny car.

Few more questions: So we clay the car and hit it with FMP and then apply wax. Assuming the wax lasts a few months, for re-application of the wax do we need to go through all the steps again? ( Clay to wax)
What are your thoughts on quick spray waxes?

You need to clarify the term "best wax". If you are asking which wax provides the longest protection, then the answer is Machine Superwax. It needs to be applied with a PC-7424. If you are asking which wax applied by hand will last the longest, then your answer is Americana. No wax makes your paint shine but different types of waxes add different characteristics to your shine. So again, the answer to your question depends on the exact results you're trying to achieve. That's why I say that you must be more specific.

In the field of detailing, your mind is in the infant stages of discovery. You have just been unplugged from the Matrix and all of this stuff is rather confusing and daunting to you. In reality, it is very simple and once you obtain the knowledge, you will realize just how simple it is. I say all that to get this point across. The is NO miracle product in a bottle. That simplistic way of thinking is what guys who buy their detailing supplies from Auto Zone, Pep Boys and Costco do. You are now beyond that point and are seeking advice on how to best care for your automobile.

Since that is the case, you need to start thinking on a professional level. There would be no detailers in the world if all you had to do is wipe something on a car and then presto, instant shine. This is somewhat of an art form, but it is an easy one to learn for those who take the time to seek out the knowledge. You are on that road now. Don't look back.

I could go into a lengthy post on why you have nothing to worry about concerning the PC, but that's why I made this video series. Apparently, you have not seen all of my videos. The one that I linked to is one of the most important concerning the PC and is a must see for novices to machine polishing. After watching that series, you will quickly realize just how much your concern about the PC is a non-factor.

Again, this is covered in the series you just watched and you even mentioned it earlier in your post. You clay when the baggie test shows that you need to clay. Not before, only after. The bag is the gauge that you use to determine when claying is necessary. If the bag shows that claying is NOT necessary, then you don't do it. The same is true in the opposite scenario. Use the gauge and react to the results that you get.

The gauge for polishing is your eyes. Polishing removes scratches and other damage from your paint. Thus, if you LOOK at your paint and see damage, then you need to polish. If there is no damage and your paint has no dullness to it, then you DON'T need to polish it. Use the gauge that is your eyes. Only you and whomever may be standing next to your can answer the question as to what needs to be done to your paint.


I would have to answer that on a case by case basis, after looking at what the product claims to do. If the product states that it will protect the car for 6 months and is made up of 50% water, then I would call BS. You have to be specific when asking a question like this because all products can't be painted with one brush.

Thank you for taking the time to review my issues. Your videos are very useful and will have to watch them a few times before I get started on my work.
[QUOTE=Junkman2008;1044502]
Again, this is covered in the series you just watched and you even mentioned it earlier in your post. You clay when the baggie test shows that you need to clay. Not before, only after. The bag is the gauge that you use to determine when claying is necessary. If the bag shows that claying is NOT necessary, then you don't do it. The same is true in the opposite scenario. Use the gauge and react to the results that you get.

The gauge for polishing is your eyes. Polishing removes scratches and other damage from your paint. Thus, if you LOOK at your paint and see damage, then you need to polish. If there is no damage and your paint has no dullness to it, then you DON'T need to polish it. Use the gauge that is your eyes. Only you and whomever may be standing next to your can answer the question as to what needs to be done to your paint.


Can you clarify something for me.. as you stated, if I don't need to clay and if the paint is in good shape and has no damage - I don't need to polish, can you go straight the MSW? Or will you always have to FMP ( at a minimum and then MSW)


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Sweet Z
What are your thoughts on quick spray waxes?

I would have to answer that on a case by case basis, after looking at what the product claims to do. If the product states that it will protect the car for 6 months and is made up of 50% water, then I would call BS. You have to be specific when asking a question like this because all products can't be painted with one brush.

I have some meguire's quik spray wax, that is applied to the car during the drying process, it hazes up and wipe off. I think I have done more damage to my DD car with not using the right products ( chinese MF towels) and creating swirl city.

:iagree:

Yes you can go straight to MSW. I on the other hand would use FMP first because your paint will never be perfect unless you fix it and never touch the paint again.

If it is a Meguiar's product and the front of the bottle does not contain the words "Mirror Glaze", then you couldn't give me a free bottle of the stuff. OTC products need to leave your detailing arsenal . There are very few OTC products worth having. That is not one of them.

Where are the towels, that Adam's sells manufactured?

Korea

Are you serious?

That's how they justify $15 for a towel

It's more like that's where any quality microfiber towel is being made today, if not in the USA (to which I don't know of any). The only difference is that if they were made in the USA, they'd cost more.

Here's the deal Dad. You can keep using those cheap, made in China towels (if that's what you're using) and anyone who doesn't have a clue wouldn't blame you. Or, you can believe me when I say that the Korean made towels are of superior quality compared to the China made towels. You should know that I speak the truth from the many repair threads and videos that I have done. I have proven my knowledge level through both. There is also one other thing you can do. You can buy the towels from Adam's and feel them side by side with those cheap ones for yourself. Then YOU can be the judge. If what I say isn't true, send them back for 110% of your money back. That's right, Adam will pay you to unplug yourself from the Matrix. You don't have to take my word. If what I say is NOT true, repost in this thread and call me a bold faced lie. I will not criticize or respond negatively in any way. That's how confident I am.

There it is. Are you up for the challenge or do you want to take my word instead? :tiphat:

I had hoped(wishful thinking) that they were made in the USA! Maybe in the future, but right now I have all the towels I need, from China.(it's still Communist China right)

Just remember what I said about how they scratch up the paint. I had to find out the hard way.

I assure you, the first scratch from any towel I have, I will switch to Adams.

Okay, deal. :tup:

This... I have never in my life heard of drying a car and using detail spray. Is this actually a method people use?

It is a practice that has been slightly misquoted and is somewhat misunderstood. This is something that is done to help rejuvenate dried water spots and help easily remove them during the drying process. You don't take a soaking wet car and spray detail spray all over it for drying purposes. There is no logic to that practice but some folks have misunderstood and do that.

oh I see... yeah we have VERY bad town water here... the mineral deposits are just terrible. Which is why i'm looking for the hardest, yet slickest sealant out there.

Here is a noob question for junkman..I have some water spot and swirl marks from previous car wahses..what products do I need to get my car back in top shape like it was new? Thanks in advance

Your situation is no different than anyone else. Your learning process starts with this thread. Everything you need to do, including the products you need to buy and how to use them are contained within those videos. It just so happens that I put a kit together that contains everything except the foam gun, which you can find on various websites throughout the web.

The reason I made these videos is because I have been asked the same thing you've posted a million times. Thus, I have covered all the questions you may have about this in those videos. WATCH THEM MORE THAN ONCE. You will never retain or catch everything that I say and do the first time through. No one ever does. Most folks need to watch them 3-4 times. They contain that much information.

Take notes. You'll be glad you did.

Junkman, what are your thoughts on Optimum No Rinse? Seems too good to be true to not have to rinse the vehicle before and after washing. Apparently, the polymer technology is supposed to encapsulate dirt particles to prevent scratching.

Thanks junkman...will definitely take the time to watch it and start detailing on my own one day..

Lol

Hey, you asked! :D

This is great news! My WW towel is also made in Korea!!! :ughdance: I guess my towels are superior as well!

Lol that helicopter is sweet

And fun too, once you figure out how to fly one! ;)

A lot of great info has come of this thread - thanks to everyone for the input. I do have one more question for you all though:

I live in Vegas. It's hot out, obviously. :) Finding the right time to wash the car myself - which I now thoroughly enjoy - can be tough. My point: I wash it less now than when it was cooler out. I have found, however, that the car stays remarkably clean for MUCH longer than my cars ever did in London (moved to LV a year ago). I guess due to less vegetation, cleaner streets and air, and far fewer insects.

BUT there is a lot of dust in the air and I find that after a week or two, while the paint remains remarkably clean, a thin layer of light but visible dust surfaces the car.

It annoys me because it almost feels like a full clean isn't necessary. And I've seen several people here keep huge dusters in their garage to buff over the car. I DON'T want to do that - the dusters look black and dirty. But I had a similar intention...

My question is: Do you think it's okay to use a clean dry microfiber towel? So, grabbing two adjacent corners of the towel, you just sheet the cloth over the paint - adding no extra force than the weight of the material itself - to gently sheet the dust/pollen clear without having to apply water?

I don't want to damage my paint. I will wash it if you all think it's a terrible idea, but I tried it on the rear hatch and I can't see any problem. If this is a viable option, I'd only need to clean my car roughly once a month, and my thoughts are the reduced handling of the paint will reduce the overall damage that occurs due to the washing process.

Thoughts?

Yea. These videos were made for you. Watch and learn. A tool can be a good or bad thing, depending on how you use it.

ANY time that you touch the paint with anything, no matter how soft, it will always have at the very least microscopic marring (scratching). If there is dust on the car, that means dirt... if you wipe it with anything, you will get scratches and overtime your paint will dull and it will need to be polished. It's likely always better to wash the car... rinsing it very throughly before washing, using very soft products and then using an electric blower. A good coat of sealant, I would recommend Finish Kare 1000p because of where you are and the Finish Kare's high temp formula (it's good up to 250 degrees)... after that the blower will make it much easier to get all of the water off.

So the simple answer: No, it's not a good idea. Thanks Methodical! :tup:

Is Finish Kare something you put on after washing before drying? Also, do you ever use touch-less car washes? Under the principles of 'touch = inevitable damage', they sound like a good idea. I was thinking of trying one tomorrow.

no problem friend

Hey Junkman. I watched your videos - the third one mainly. Your technique with the california duster is essentially EXACTLY what I described in my post, i.e. just glazing the fiber over the surface. So from that, I would take it that what I suggested is fine.

Using exactly what I used, in the same manner as how I use it is fine. Anything else and you are looking at scratching the paint.

This is why I show you flawless paint to start with and then destroy it with the technique that most people use. You don't have to take my word for it, all you have to do is believe your lying eyes! You see me use one technique that creates the damage, and then you see me use a technique that does not. If I knew nothing about this, at least I can see a proven technique and say to myself, "Hmmm... that way didn't scratch the car."

That would be enough for me without me trying to reinvent the wheel. As for touchless washes, I have some videos that cover that too. All you have to do is wash them.

Bump for a thread full of knowledge.