Sub to this!

Once you start using professional grade products, the word "better" starts to loose significant value when it comes to performance. There may be things about a professional grade product that makes it better for YOU (cost, availability, etc...), but performance will seldom be the issue. What you should concentrate on is learning how to use the product properly so that it performs up to the manufacturer's designed intent instead of trying find something "better". There are a lot of professional grade products that will take you to Shineville, just pick one and master it. However, make sure that you don't pick up any worthless consumer junk along the way. There are very few consumer grade products out there that are worth your hard earned dollar.

One rule that I try and follow to keep my choices down to a minimum is using a company's product that actually manufactures what they sell. If they don't have a manufacturing facility (like Hi-Temp, Meguiar's & Menzerna to name a few), then they are either rebottling their product or their products are made for them. By following this rule, you can pick up the phone and actually talk to someone who has a degree in manufacturing these products instead of just a company employee. When you talk to people with a degree in this stuff, they can expand on how their product works and should be used to a degree that will put you to sleep. Not that you remotely need that level of exposure to be successful, it's just good to have that access.

Just don't get fooled by the imposters out there. Having a manufacturing facility where the products are actually created (and the company's name is actually on the building where the products are created), and having a warehouse are two different things. ;)

Thanks for the excellent instructional videos Junkman. I followed the process you outline and my car came out better than ever, very pleased with the results. Took me 1 day to wash, clay, wash, tape. Two days of polishing with 105 and 205. Then one final day for applying 3 coats of zaino sealant and spot cleaning all the little areas.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Glad it worked out for you. :)

Thanks for all the hard work put into making these DIY's Junkman. Your expertise is more than appreciated by me :)

Thank you for watching. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...eys/tiphat.gif

thanks for your time and effort for this tutorial! I'm slowly working around the car... did the rear bumper and trunk then will work on sides and front over the weekend.

best advise you gave was -> PATIENCE!!!! It's going to take time cause technique > product.

Yes grasshopper... the red pill is strong with this one... :D

First, the UDM is NOT like a PC and a rotary combined. Regardless of their marketing, it's more like a PC with a 20% more powerful motor. I don't see that being anything significant because the back plate doesn't have forced rotation like the Flex 3401VRG. If it had that, then there would be a significant difference between it and the PC. At least you didn't spend some ungodly amount of money for that "more powerful" polisher. The Bosch 1250DEVS is a hybrid PC/Flex. You can burn paint with that thing or use it like a PC with no worries at all. It has a locking mechanism that switches it between modes.

As for pads, do you know what the difference is between a white pad and a green pad? If you don't know who manufactures the pad, how do you know what the cut of the pad is? Answer that question for me. Also, I am not impressed with anything by Wolfgang. The Menzerna product is fine.

I was trying to say that I have a UDM and I also own a Flex 3401 (I purchased the flex in 07 I think).

I have green and white pads from Lake Country:

The labeling on the LC green pad says this. This soft green polishing/finishing pad will remove light imperfections, including mild swirl marks and mild oxidation. Use light swirl removers, polishes and cleaner waxes. This soft green pad can be used after compounding to apply a finishing polish or to apply one-step products.

The labeling on the LC white pad says this. This white pad is intended for use with pre-wax cleaners, waxes, and sealants. This pad is highly absorbent to allow for even product application. It has very light cutting power in order to clean the paint without abrading clear coat or single stage finishes.

The green pads from proper auto care don't have anything on them but they look like the LC green pad and their part number starts with LC so I was assuming it's probably from Lake Country.

Since the finish was new I wasn't sure if the LC green pad would be too aggressive.

Then the number one rule that you should follow when looking at your situation is to always start with the least aggressive method first and work your way backwards.

Yo junkman - awesome videos! I just haven't gone through them all - any recommendations if I don't have a garage nearby? in an apartment right now with no access to a hose to wash the car. I take my beater to the local DIY play and just spray it down with their pressure hose and the foam gun.

I use to go to a DIY place in the middle of the night and take my time washing the car. Just do it in a nice part of town. The lighting is excellent and you won't have to worry about water spots at night.

Thanks man, I saw the reply on youtube :) I need to grab a bucket and the grit guard to do it properly.

hey junkman...thanks so much for the time and effort you put into what you do...it helps so much...

I had a question and if there is a video about it maybe you could put up a link...im wondering if when I am polishing on the car and following as close to your technique as I can am I able to go around my entire car for instance with the orange hex logic pad without stopping to clean it out? like I said im not sure I found a video with this info in it but if so could you please point me in the right direction...thanks again