Suspension 2.5" lower... or more?
 

Okay, so I just bought a 2014 370z. It already comes somewhat "low" but I still want to lower it 2.5" without messing with the performance (especially cornering). What would be best. Coilovers or springs? Maybe bagging it? And could I lower it anymore without it effecting the performance? (Lower than 2.5")

P.S. Does anyone know of any body kits for the 2014 models with room for the Daytime running LED's, so they're not covered? :(

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/18/qusebaja.jpg

A 2.5" drop is in scraping territory, pretty much everywhere. You might need to be a little higher. Coilovers would be the way to do it, but adding an air cup kit for quick adjustability wouldn't hurt. Of course, that adds to the expense. Full bags are expensive, heavy, and complicated. I can't comment on their performance. Supposedly they can be as good as coils.

I'm not sure any springs exist that can drop the car that low.

If you want a full body kit, I believe that the Varis Arising II kit is the only one that uses the stock DRLs. Carbon Signal has a front lip for the 2013+ as well.

You'll hurt performance. You can't lower a car that much and not kill the geometry of the suspension components. Unless you buy new spindle arms or knuckles that everything bolts to.

What would be best? Theoretically, how much could I actually lower it?

If you want the car to handle, you're probably looking at a 1" drop, not much more because of what synolimit said

Not sure without getting under the car and knowing what I'm looking at. A race team will know. There is a front knuckle out there that's $3000 or something to help go lower :tup:

Or custom...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps30ea43f4.jpg

:iagree: Any more than that, is scrapping a lot.

:iagree:Also, 2.5" is going to hide the tops of your wheels in the fender wells, which looks stupid. Just my :twocents:.

2.5" higher then you can drive it like a truck/suv

so if you want to lower it an inch, you would go with springs? no point in spending all that money on coilovers?

question marks cause i'm asking :D

I had my car absolutely slammed on KWV3's. I wouldn't recommend it for city driving. You'll scrape EVERYWHERE.

:iagree:

:icon17:

Swift Spec-R springs are an excellent choice.

gracias

:tiphat:

im reading the whole thread on the swift springs (on page 4 out of 133 lol)... can you explain why are spacers needed? when you put the springs on are they going to make the wheels fall in so you need spacers to push them back out? and i also see that rear camber is needed.

Spacers are a personal choice. Most people use them to improve the look of the wheel fitment and they also change the handling a bit due to their wider stance.

The rear camber arms are needed because you will find it difficult to impossible to get the camber in spec on shorter springs using the OEM camber arms.

i wasn't aware spacers were expensive. seem to go for $220 per spacer. i think i'd leave it without them lol

You can get spacers for $55 a pair. Like I said in another thread, it's just some milled aluminum with wheel studs. It's the camber arms that are expensive, but they pop up in our classifieds section quite a bit.

IMO, you could probably get away with not using a camber kit if you are dropping with Swifts. Your alignment won't be perfect, but it won't be that far off either.

how much do they go for?

i was looking at this vendor and the spacers were pricey
Buy Swift Spec-R Springs Nissan 370Z | KamiSpeed.com

If you get spacers don't get cheap ones. Most people on this forum run Z1 or H&R. Both are good quality machined billet aluminum and hub centric.

Camber arms aren't that expensive either. I got my SPC kit for $180 shipped off amazon. If you plan on tracking, get the SPL ones and be done with it. Their construction is more heavy duty (as is the price)

i dont plan on tracking it... i just wanted to clear a little bit of the fender gap and the swifts seemed perfect for what i was looking for. as i continue reading the swift thread, it seems some people did need the camber arms and some people didn't. i guess i could always go without and then if needed buy them and put them on?

and sorry for jacking the thread op... sort of :D

Just get them and do it all at once. I gambled and went without because of that as well, but the majority of Zs seem to need it. My first alignment without the arms showed the rear camber was still pretty aggressive at -2.5 with the stock camber bolts maxed out. Installed the arms and realigned a few months later and I'm back at -1.9.

that's what i was thinking as well... thanks for the input :)

My philosophy is that I might as well do it since I have all the tools out :tup:

Make sure to get a few dremel bits and eye protection when enlarging the toe bolt holes

Not to be difficult, but I personally know more than 2 dozen Z's with Swifts and not one could get in sec without aftermarket camber arms. Yes, you can get close, sort of, on the camber angle, but not the camber and toe simultaneously with stock parts.

And -- $55.00 for a pair of spacers and you are buying junk. Expect AT LEAST 120.00 or so for a pair. Do not skimp on suspension parts. Duh. They are holding your car up.

onzedge™ has written

:iagree:

z1 has them going for $88.

by the time you add up springs+spacers+camber arms it almost equals out to coilovers. so now i'm at cross roads lol is it better to save up another few hundred bucks and get coilovers? i still only want to drop my car an about an inch like stated earlier just to clear the fender gap.

Coil-overs do not eliminate the need for camber arms and spacers are completely optional so your cost calculations are a bit off.

Swift Spec-R -- $350.00 (or so)
Koni Yellow -- $900.00 (or so)

Decent Coli-overs, and I mean decent -- ????

Bilstein are the only coil-overs I would consider and they are $2,100 plus

why 2.5"? remove the springs and go -5"

I had H&R springs and spacers and liked it. It was lower than swifts but hard on the oem shocks. Overall no issues whatsoever. I'd also recommend Powertrix spacers hubcentric for a decent price. 140 for a pair of 20 mm and a pair of 25mm. When you lower without spacers, it would look odd with the wheels sunk in. The pix you see below is when I was on H&R's. A good lowering mod with spacers, springs, camber kit and toe bolt will run you between $600 - $650 on the low side. Parts only.

I won't argue with you on the camber, you're right, if you want to be 100% in spec, camber arms are necessary.

The spacers though, what's junk about them? My el-cheapo spacers were hub centric, the correct width, had grade 10.9 studs, and fit perfectly. They just didn't have someones name stamped on them to jack the price up.

Currently dropped on Swifts and I don't scrap...often. I still approach speed bumps with caution but most of them I can drive right over without an angled approach. The drop is 1" in front and 1.25" in the rear.

I want to make the switch to coils and lower another 1" in the front and the rear to it will be about 2" drop all around. Will I start scraping my lip, sides, FI exhaust cans all over the place now?

The probability of issues increases with the the cheaper spacers. They may not be all machined the same, fitment might not be the same for all 4, they may crack, etc. Ichiba is the first that comes to mind. It's the same difference between a $15 Auto Zone rotor and a $65 Brembo Blank. They do the same thing, but you're less likely to have issues with one of them.

Z1 has their spacers on sale starting at $88 for 20mm bolt ons. $33/pair additional surely won't break the bank.

i totally agree...mine's stock and i find myself passing-up a lot of parking lots and driveway entrances due to scraping the front end...even some speed bumps cause problems...good luck to you if you lower it...better keep it on a very well-groomed track

:iagree:

Off topic but any recomendations for a cold air intake system? Takeda K&N AEM Stillen?

Caroll smith recommends minimum 2.5" to better 3" of front bump travel, and more in the rear. So assuming you get roll angle adjusters and bump steer correction, and make sure nothing else in the wheel well interferes, then with the 5" or so clearance, you probably can have a max drop of 2" without hurting the performance, and maybe increasing the performance. In order to do that though, roll center adjusters and super stiff springs, and properly matched good shocks are a must.