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Got my erection all up for nothing
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For the pair?!@ You must mean each.. lol. If it's for a pair that's insane, I'm all over it. If each though, I don't see the price increase over the RB ones. Not having to shave a bit off the dust shield is nice (I can see some people not wanting to bother) but not really a big deal to do it either. Especially if (as they state on the site) the thicker rotor will increase longevity.
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Call and ask for John, tell him the asshole sent you. He'll know what you're asking about, LOL Thicker will, but hell, people had 50+ track days on OEM rears without any issues. I'd rather have 5lbs off EACH vs an extra .01" of metal. lol |
:excited: Haha the RB ones are 4lbs lighter a corner than stock, but an extra pound/side is 2 whole pounds! And that price :yum:
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Dumb question... Correct me if I'm wrong but the rears are gonna sell for $650?? Aren't they smaller than the fronts? Dunno why they'd be more expensive.
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Should have my set tomorrow. Can't wait to get them on. :excited:
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The rear rotors were more expensive when RB debuted them too, I'd imagine they cost more to produce and develop seeing as they have to retain the ebrake. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Z1 2 piece rotor set front & rear installed with new pads,SS lines & Moto fluid
There seemed to be some question as to the weight of the rear rotors. My bathroom scale shows a 5 lb reduction from factory to Z1. Tip on the install. you will probably have to back off the star wheels adjuster on the emergency brake. Check the tension on the brake assembly before re mounting the tires. On the rear I used the old caliper pins as the ones Z1 sent in the kit were too long and looked silly stickin out of the caliper. She will be getting a wheel alignment tomorrow & then brake break in. |
Oh boy, please tell me these are available without the cross drilling!
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It's R&D costs as well as how much of a BITCH it is to make... |
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And slam1918 installed them wrong if I'm not mistaken |
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what's the beef with X drill??? I have an 04 Joe Gibbs Silverado with 175k miles Magnuson blower & Baer slotted X drilled rotors all around. I drove the crap out of it in the S. Florida heat & not a peep out of em. Changed pads @ 75k & didn't have to resurface the rotors.
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They are much more prone to cracking than blank or slotted, especially with track use.
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I get upset that if stress cracks occur the manufacturer is blamed... Which is BS... |
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Funny Z1 tech told me on the phone cooling vanes in between the rotor surfaces go toward the front to scoop air and assist in cooling but I will triple check with them. Maybe if Z1 is peeking in on this site they can chime in. The pic is front & rear but thanks for pointing that out. I'll confirm today.
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They may have said that however unless their rotor design defies conventional wisdom/practices re: curved vane rotors, I think it was bad information.
Installation: MOTOR Magazine Article | MOTOR Information Systems https://www.drt-sport.com/faq How to properly install plain, slotted, or drilled brake rotors Good discussion on it here: Direction of rotation - RacingBrake Forums |
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A key point that may be being missed in those articles vs this discussion: It's internal vane orientation that matters, not the slots on the outside. So you gotta be sure the internal vanes are pointed the right direction.
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Yup, I'm with slam1918...I initially installed mine with outer vanes running the other way as some have suggested and I was told that my rotors were backwards as compared to another Z with Z1 rotors. These were people that are very knowledgeable.....:confused:
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Those articles were reference internal vane orientation... The forum link was to the racing brake forum where they said exactly that, the slot on the outside doesn't matter but ALL CURVED INTERNAL VANES must run with the vane angled towards the rear for proper operation. I have a feeling they know a thing or two about brakes. Right now his rotors are opposite to that. It just makes good sense when you think about it too, sucks air from the center of the rotor, through the hot rotor and out the edge away from it. If it 'was sucking air in' as apparently the Z1 tech suggested, it comes across the hot rotor to the inside and goes... Where? Edit: From the first link I posted: "Rotors with curved vanes, however, are directional and must be positioned properly to achieve full heat dissipation. With curved vanes, the rotor must be mounted with the vanes angled rearward, which results in a centrifugal pumping action. This causes hot air to be pumped from the center area outward. " From the second link: "Rotors with straight or pillar vanes are non directional. Direction of cross drilled or slotted rotors can be installed on either side as long as the front and rear match. A curved vane rotor is directional and must be installed as left and right. The vanes sweep backward from the inside running back toward the rear of the car." Third link: "Some higher performance cars come with "directional rotors", which have curved or tilted internal cooling vanes. These curved vanes pump more air through the rotors, resulting in improved cooling efficiency. Thus, there is a left and a right rotor. When the directional rotors are properly installed, these internal vanes should lean toward the back of the car - as shown in the diagram on the lower left." Waiting for Z1 to chime in and explain why their curved vane rotors are apparently supposed to spin opposite to every other curved vane rotor on the market. http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...rientation.jpg Quote:
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Yes, I'm glad that you agree with me.
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Yes the Parking Brake is retained and fully functional with our 2-piece Rear Brake Rotors. We designed the internal parking brake drum to work with all OEM Parking Brakes without modification. We DO NOT recommend parking brake drifts or using the parking brake after doing a track session due to the aluminum hat. This is consistent with any of rear brake rotor on the market either Steel or Aluminum. |
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Just to confirm. These will be listed for $728 regular price. But we will list these on special for an initial offering at $648 plus shipping. Again, to also confirm, this is for the PAIR of rear rotors. We have a limited number of sets available at this time. |
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But even more importantly, which way do they spin?! :stirthepot: |
At least a full package deal please front & rears? Thanks!
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If you plan on installing brake ducts that are mounted close to the hub, you want the vanes to slant towards the rear of the car. Inside (hub edge) leading. This will allow the vane to "scoop" the air and spin it out through the middle of the disc. \\\\ If you do not plan on installing any brake ducting, then it really does not matter. However, a 19" or larger wheel will have additional clearance between the wheel's barrel and the rotor itself. These will allow air to be scooped and pulled into cool the hub/wheel bearing....in theory. //// The vanes are designed to scoop air and force it through the rotor. The rotor will perform this action, regardless of which direction you choose. However, if you do install brake ducts in conjunction with the rotors and install the rotors in the wrong orientation, the ducting will be work to its full potential. I hope I have answered your question. |
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I'm wearing my brakes out changing my rotors and re-bedding them lol. I think I will leave them the way they are just to be different.
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I forced my credit card info on John without knowing the price, lol I'm very excited to get them. I might "be sick" when they come in... |
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I already had a crisis in my pants when I saw that these were so close to being up for sale. If we're talking about at home... I've genuinely had too many, lol. "Sick" is easier to pawn off at this point |
Z1, will these be available with j hook design?
If so, I'm ready for front and rear sets. |
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I believe that's an AP-Racing thing that Stillen does too because they are the AP-Racing sellers as well as work with them directly to make products for consumer cars |
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