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-   -   Z1 2-Piece Rear Rotors???? (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/89000-z1-2-piece-rear-rotors.html)

Driftomodachi 04-22-2014 07:12 PM

Got my erection all up for nothing

DEpointfive0 04-22-2014 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline (Post 2791115)
What was the price these were listed for then (can't see now that the link is down). If it is much more than the RB $950, I'll stick with the RB rears. My fronts have been amazing thus far. 1lb extra weight savings on the rear would be nice, but not worth a whole lot more IMO. I love the open slot design of the RB rotors too, and I don't mind trimming the dust shield slightly to gain a thicker rear rotor. (So much trimming/adjusting other stuff on the car anyways, what's one more dremel lol)

The LIST price was $650, don't hold me to it. And I think $700 is reasonable with the amount of R&D and taking into account how much of a BITCH it is to do what they did

edconline 04-22-2014 07:30 PM

For the pair?!@ You must mean each.. lol. If it's for a pair that's insane, I'm all over it. If each though, I don't see the price increase over the RB ones. Not having to shave a bit off the dust shield is nice (I can see some people not wanting to bother) but not really a big deal to do it either. Especially if (as they state on the site) the thicker rotor will increase longevity.

DEpointfive0 04-22-2014 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline (Post 2791146)
For the pair?!@ You must mean each.. lol. If it's for a pair that's insane, I'm all over it. If each though, I don't see the price increase over the RB ones. Not having to shave a bit off the dust shield is nice (I can see some people not wanting to bother) but not really a big deal to do it either. Especially if (as they state on the site) the thicker rotor will increase longevity.

LOL!!! For the PAIR!!!

Call and ask for John, tell him the asshole sent you. He'll know what you're asking about, LOL


Thicker will, but hell, people had 50+ track days on OEM rears without any issues. I'd rather have 5lbs off EACH vs an extra .01" of metal. lol

edconline 04-22-2014 08:19 PM

:excited: Haha the RB ones are 4lbs lighter a corner than stock, but an extra pound/side is 2 whole pounds! And that price :yum:

PharmDZ 04-22-2014 09:04 PM

Dumb question... Correct me if I'm wrong but the rears are gonna sell for $650?? Aren't they smaller than the fronts? Dunno why they'd be more expensive.

gomer_110 04-22-2014 09:05 PM

Should have my set tomorrow. Can't wait to get them on. :excited:

edconline 04-22-2014 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmDZ (Post 2791310)
Dumb question... Correct me if I'm wrong but the rears are gonna sell for $650?? Aren't they smaller than the fronts? Dunno why they'd be more expensive.


The rear rotors were more expensive when RB debuted them too, I'd imagine they cost more to produce and develop seeing as they have to retain the ebrake.


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slam1918 04-22-2014 09:47 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Z1 2 piece rotor set front & rear installed with new pads,SS lines & Moto fluid

There seemed to be some question as to the weight of the rear rotors. My bathroom scale shows a 5 lb reduction from factory to Z1.

Tip on the install. you will probably have to back off the star wheels adjuster on the emergency brake. Check the tension on the brake assembly before re mounting the tires. On the rear I used the old caliper pins as the ones Z1 sent in the kit were too long and looked silly stickin out of the caliper.

She will be getting a wheel alignment tomorrow & then brake break in.

edconline 04-22-2014 09:52 PM

Oh boy, please tell me these are available without the cross drilling!


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DEpointfive0 04-22-2014 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmDZ (Post 2791310)
Dumb question... Correct me if I'm wrong but the rears are gonna sell for $650?? Aren't they smaller than the fronts? Dunno why they'd be more expensive.

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline (Post 2791380)
The rear rotors were more expensive when RB debuted them too, I'd imagine they cost more to produce and develop seeing as they have to retain the ebrake.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:iagree:

It's R&D costs as well as how much of a BITCH it is to make...

DEpointfive0 04-22-2014 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline (Post 2791389)
Oh boy, please tell me these are available without the cross drilling!


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Yep, slotted FTW. Ordered mine already

6MT-Z34 04-22-2014 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slam1918 (Post 2791385)
Z1 2 piece rotor set front & rear installed with new pads,SS lines & Moto fluid

There seemed to be some question as to the weight of the rear rotors. My bathroom scale shows a 5 lb reduction from factory to Z1.

Tip on the install. you will probably have to back off the star wheels adjuster on the emergency brake. Check the tension on the brake assembly before re mounting the tires. On the rear I used the old caliper pins as the ones Z1 sent in the kit were too long and looked silly stickin out of the caliper.

She will be getting a wheel alignment tomorrow & then brake break in.

Nice! I think the rotors are directional I'm not 100% sure but u might want to check it before doing the alignment and brake in...?

DEpointfive0 04-22-2014 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6MT-Z34 (Post 2791412)
Nice! I think the rotors are directional I'm not 100% sure but u might want to check it before doing the alignment and brake in...?

They are.

And slam1918 installed them wrong if I'm not mistaken

slam1918 04-22-2014 10:11 PM

1 Attachment(s)
what's the beef with X drill??? I have an 04 Joe Gibbs Silverado with 175k miles Magnuson blower & Baer slotted X drilled rotors all around. I drove the crap out of it in the S. Florida heat & not a peep out of em. Changed pads @ 75k & didn't have to resurface the rotors.

Chuck33079 04-22-2014 10:12 PM

They are much more prone to cracking than blank or slotted, especially with track use.

DEpointfive0 04-22-2014 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slam1918 (Post 2791419)
what's the beef with X drill??? I have an 04 Joe Gibbs Silverado with 175k miles Magnuson blower & Baer slotted X drilled rotors all around. I drove the crap out of it in the S. Florida heat & not a peep out of em. Changed pads @ 75k & didn't have to resurface the rotors.

Drilled rotors are infinitely more prone to cracking. You probably won't crack them with any amount of aggressive street driving in any temp, but tracking would probably do it.

I get upset that if stress cracks occur the manufacturer is blamed... Which is BS...

edconline 04-22-2014 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2791416)
They are.

And slam1918 installed them wrong if I'm not mistaken

I believe them to be backwards as well. Based on their pictures on the site. The cooling vanes need to be angled towards the rear in order to evacuate heat from the rotor. If they were straight vaned I don't think it would matter which direction the slots ran, but they appear to be curved from the pics.

slam1918 04-23-2014 05:07 AM

Funny Z1 tech told me on the phone cooling vanes in between the rotor surfaces go toward the front to scoop air and assist in cooling but I will triple check with them. Maybe if Z1 is peeking in on this site they can chime in. The pic is front & rear but thanks for pointing that out. I'll confirm today.

edconline 04-23-2014 07:36 AM

They may have said that however unless their rotor design defies conventional wisdom/practices re: curved vane rotors, I think it was bad information.

Installation:
MOTOR Magazine Article | MOTOR Information Systems
https://www.drt-sport.com/faq
How to properly install plain, slotted, or drilled brake rotors

Good discussion on it here:
Direction of rotation - RacingBrake Forums

FPenvy 04-23-2014 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slam1918 (Post 2791603)
Funny Z1 tech told me on the phone cooling vanes in between the rotor surfaces go toward the front to scoop air and assist in cooling but I will triple check with them. Maybe if Z1 is peeking in on this site they can chime in. The pic is front & rear but thanks for pointing that out. I'll confirm today.

i mean i could always just go look at my stock rotors and tell you which way they go lol

Sh0velMan 04-23-2014 07:41 AM

A key point that may be being missed in those articles vs this discussion: It's internal vane orientation that matters, not the slots on the outside. So you gotta be sure the internal vanes are pointed the right direction.

LostSol 04-23-2014 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan (Post 2791719)
A key point that may be being missed in those articles vs this discussion: It's internal vane orientation that matters, not the slots on the outside. So you gotta be sure the internal vanes are pointed the right direction.

:iagree:

Hotrodz 04-23-2014 08:19 AM

Yup, I'm with slam1918...I initially installed mine with outer vanes running the other way as some have suggested and I was told that my rotors were backwards as compared to another Z with Z1 rotors. These were people that are very knowledgeable.....:confused:

edconline 04-23-2014 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan (Post 2791719)
A key point that may be being missed in those articles vs this discussion: It's internal vane orientation that matters, not the slots on the outside. So you gotta be sure the internal vanes are pointed the right direction.


Those articles were reference internal vane orientation... The forum link was to the racing brake forum where they said exactly that, the slot on the outside doesn't matter but ALL CURVED INTERNAL VANES must run with the vane angled towards the rear for proper operation. I have a feeling they know a thing or two about brakes.
Right now his rotors are opposite to that. It just makes good sense when you think about it too, sucks air from the center of the rotor, through the hot rotor and out the edge away from it. If it 'was sucking air in' as apparently the Z1 tech suggested, it comes across the hot rotor to the inside and goes... Where?

Edit:
From the first link I posted:
"Rotors with curved vanes, however, are directional and must be positioned properly to achieve full heat dissipation. With curved vanes, the rotor must be mounted with the vanes angled rearward, which results in a centrifugal pumping action. This causes hot air to be pumped from the center area outward. "

From the second link:
"Rotors with straight or pillar vanes are non directional. Direction of cross drilled or slotted rotors can be installed on either side as long as the front and rear match.

A curved vane rotor is directional and must be installed as left and right. The vanes sweep backward from the inside running back toward the rear of the car."

Third link:
"Some higher performance cars come with "directional rotors", which have curved or tilted internal cooling vanes. These curved vanes pump more air through the rotors, resulting in improved cooling efficiency. Thus, there is a left and a right rotor. When the directional rotors are properly installed, these internal vanes should lean toward the back of the car - as shown in the diagram on the lower left."

Waiting for Z1 to chime in and explain why their curved vane rotors are apparently supposed to spin opposite to every other curved vane rotor on the market.

http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...rientation.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPenvy (Post 2791715)
i mean i could always just go look at my stock rotors and tell you which way they go lol

That probably wouldn't help as IIRC the stock rotors are straight vane design.

Sh0velMan 04-23-2014 09:34 AM

Yes, I'm glad that you agree with me.


Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline (Post 2791926)
Those articles were reference internal vane orientation... The forum link was to the racing brake forum where they said exactly that, the slot on the outside doesn't matter but ALL CURVED INTERNAL VANES must run with the vane angled towards the rear for proper operation. I have a feeling they know a thing or two about brakes.
Right now his rotors are opposite to that. It just makes good sense when you think about it too, sucks air from the center of the rotor, through the hot rotor and out the edge away from it. If it 'was sucking air in' as apparently the Z1 tech suggested, it comes across the hot rotor to the inside and goes... Where?

Edit:
From the first link I posted:
"Rotors with curved vanes, however, are directional and must be positioned properly to achieve full heat dissipation. With curved vanes, the rotor must be mounted with the vanes angled rearward, which results in a centrifugal pumping action. This causes hot air to be pumped from the center area outward. "

From the second link:
"Rotors with straight or pillar vanes are non directional. Direction of cross drilled or slotted rotors can be installed on either side as long as the front and rear match.

A curved vane rotor is directional and must be installed as left and right. The vanes sweep backward from the inside running back toward the rear of the car."

Third link:
"Some higher performance cars come with "directional rotors", which have curved or tilted internal cooling vanes. These curved vanes pump more air through the rotors, resulting in improved cooling efficiency. Thus, there is a left and a right rotor. When the directional rotors are properly installed, these internal vanes should lean toward the back of the car - as shown in the diagram on the lower left."

Waiting for Z1 to chime in and explain why their curved vane rotors are apparently supposed to spin opposite to every other curved vane rotor on the market.

http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...rientation.jpg



That probably wouldn't help as IIRC the stock rotors are straight vane design.


edconline 04-23-2014 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan (Post 2791972)
Yes, I'm glad that you agree with me.

LOL. I just re-read your post and was like :werd: The 'May be being missed' was too much for me when I read it this morning, just came off an all night shift at the base and clearly wasn't reading right lol. All I thought was, dammit how are people not getting this yet lol. :tiphat:

Sh0velMan 04-23-2014 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline (Post 2791974)
LOL. I just re-read your post and was like :werd: The 'May be being missed' was too much for me when I read it this morning, just came off an all night shift at the base and clearly wasn't reading right lol. All I thought was, dammit how are people not getting this yet lol. :tiphat:

:tup:

Dustin@Z1 04-23-2014 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkJak (Post 2789159)
Is the parking brake still working well with these?

Regardless, I'll eventually buy them this year to match the fronts.

DarkJak,
Yes the Parking Brake is retained and fully functional with our 2-piece Rear Brake Rotors. We designed the internal parking brake drum to work with all OEM Parking Brakes without modification. We DO NOT recommend parking brake drifts or using the parking brake after doing a track session due to the aluminum hat. This is consistent with any of rear brake rotor on the market either Steel or Aluminum.

Dustin@Z1 04-23-2014 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmDZ (Post 2791310)
Dumb question... Correct me if I'm wrong but the rears are gonna sell for $650?? Aren't they smaller than the fronts? Dunno why they'd be more expensive.

The rears are going to be slightly more expensive than the front rotors due to the additional cost in the aluminum hat. The hat is machined from a massive chunk of billet aluminum, that is expensive from a material standpoint. The iron section is also not a standard dimension, this also significantly increased the manufacturing cost having to have the irons custom made.

Just to confirm. These will be listed for $728 regular price. But we will list these on special for an initial offering at $648 plus shipping. Again, to also confirm, this is for the PAIR of rear rotors. We have a limited number of sets available at this time.

edconline 04-23-2014 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1 (Post 2792003)
The rears are going to be slightly more expensive than the Rear's due to the additional cost in the aluminum hat. The hat is machined from a massive chunk of billet aluminum, that is expensive from a material standpoint. The iron section are also not a standard dimension, this also significantly increased the manufacturing cost having to have the irons custom made.

Just to confirm. These will be listed for $728 regular price. But we will list these on special for an initial offering at $648 plus shipping. Again, to also confirm, this is for the PAIR of rear rotors. We have a limited number of sets available at this time.

Amazing price Dustin :tup:
But even more importantly, which way do they spin?! :stirthepot:

Shadezz 04-23-2014 10:51 AM

At least a full package deal please front & rears? Thanks!

Dustin@Z1 04-23-2014 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline (Post 2792058)
Amazing price Dustin :tup:
But even more importantly, which way do they spin?! :stirthepot:

The internal vane direction dictates the direction of rotation...which is what I think someone mentioned previously.

If you plan on installing brake ducts that are mounted close to the hub, you want the vanes to slant towards the rear of the car. Inside (hub edge) leading. This will allow the vane to "scoop" the air and spin it out through the middle of the disc. \\\\

If you do not plan on installing any brake ducting, then it really does not matter. However, a 19" or larger wheel will have additional clearance between the wheel's barrel and the rotor itself. These will allow air to be scooped and pulled into cool the hub/wheel bearing....in theory. ////

The vanes are designed to scoop air and force it through the rotor. The rotor will perform this action, regardless of which direction you choose. However, if you do install brake ducts in conjunction with the rotors and install the rotors in the wrong orientation, the ducting will be work to its full potential.

I hope I have answered your question.

edconline 04-23-2014 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1 (Post 2792089)
The internal vane direction dictates the direction of rotation...which is what I think someone mentioned previously.

If you plan on installing brake ducts that are mounted close to the hub, you want the vanes to slant towards the rear of the car. Inside (hub edge) leading. This will allow the vane to "scoop" the air and spin it out through the middle of the disc. \\\\

If you do not plan on installing any brake ducting, then it really does not matter. However, a 19" or larger wheel will have additional clearance between the wheel's barrel and the rotor itself. These will allow air to be scooped and pulled into cool the hub/wheel bearing....in theory. ////

The vanes are designed to scoop air and force it through the rotor. The rotor will perform this action, regardless of which direction you choose. However, if you do install brake ducts in conjunction with the rotors and install the rotors in the wrong orientation, the ducting will be work to its full potential.

I hope I have answered your question.

Yes. I have never seen this suggested before, I think that would be an interesting test with some equipment to measure temps in both orientations. I will probably stick with the industry convention on orientation regardless of ducting or not. Thanks for the reply.

Hotrodz 04-23-2014 11:23 AM

I'm wearing my brakes out changing my rotors and re-bedding them lol. I think I will leave them the way they are just to be different.

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DEpointfive0 04-23-2014 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edconline (Post 2792058)
Amazing price Dustin :tup:
But even more importantly, which way do they spin?! :stirthepot:

Yeah, that's a great price!

I forced my credit card info on John without knowing the price, lol
I'm very excited to get them. I might "be sick" when they come in...

Sh0velMan 04-23-2014 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2792118)
Yeah, that's a great price!

I forced my credit card info on John without knowing the price, lol
I'm very excited to get them. I might "be sick" when they come in...

"Have a crisis"

DEpointfive0 04-23-2014 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan (Post 2792133)
"Have a crisis"

If we're using "crisis" in the way the British use the word, then yes :tup:
I already had a crisis in my pants when I saw that these were so close to being up for sale.

If we're talking about at home... I've genuinely had too many, lol. "Sick" is easier to pawn off at this point

BlkNismo 04-23-2014 11:58 AM

Z1, will these be available with j hook design?

If so, I'm ready for front and rear sets.

DEpointfive0 04-23-2014 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlkNismo (Post 2792151)
Z1, will these be available with j hook design?

If so, I'm ready for front and rear sets.

I highly doubt it. I don't think Z1 makes any J-hooks at all...
I believe that's an AP-Racing thing that Stillen does too because they are the AP-Racing sellers as well as work with them directly to make products for consumer cars


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