Nissan 370Z Forum
Page 5 of 6 « First 34 5 6
Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Brakes & Suspension (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/)
-   -   SPL rear titanium mid links, springs??? (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/86835-spl-rear-titanium-mid-links-springs.html)

gomer_110 02-12-2016 09:22 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 3412528)
I think that's a prob then. A 7" spring at oem heights probably putting it at an odd angle. You saw my pics and gomers, 6" spring with adjuster at half way and straight when compressed. You need to slam it or go 6".
My springs are 7" free length.

DEpointfive0 02-12-2016 09:32 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 3412526)
Well since I DIDNT f*^k the guy who clames I did who I sold my links to cause they were perfect on my car, maybe yours are 350z's? Even though I doubt that's an issue because I gave away my oem buckets to a 350z guy and he has no issue. So idk
Whathuh?

And SPL said they're the same and that I have the newest revision

OldFart 02-21-2016 03:25 PM
Really late to this one, but I called them on the same issue about the spring alignment. They said it was normal when car was jacked up, when car is down on ground it looks ok from what I can see. I'm running a 6" spring and my adjuster is in the middle, have plenty of room to go either way. Total bitch adjusting them though - the spring binds on tbe inside of the adjuster.

When the weather gets nice I have to play with my droop, any major bump I hit it sounds like I am slamming up against something with the suspension, but not seeing anything amiss.

Here is a picture of mine with the car on the ground.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...221_163437.jpg

Spooler 02-21-2016 09:22 PM
I was looking at these but man they seem to be a pain to get right.

OldFart 02-21-2016 09:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3419466)
I was looking at these but man they seem to be a pain to get right.
There is some trial and error. I just backed the car up on race ramps and have enough room to make adjustments without removing anything. Take it out for a spin and measure. It is a nice setup.

Spooler 02-21-2016 10:04 PM
Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?

OldFart 02-21-2016 10:16 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3419500)
Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?
For a daily driver, probably not, except for the adjustibility - and the chubby ya might get when under the car. What you have listed in your post is almost my exact setup. I can never leave well enough alone, hense my reasoning for doing it.

gomer_110 02-21-2016 10:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3419500)
Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?
Addressed a couple of pages back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gomer_110 (Post 3393201)
Suspension geometry doesn't change from stock. The advantages are that you can use more readily available 2.5" ID springs, adjust ride height (could help handling), and can adjust camber and toe with a more robust adjustment than just toe bolts.

OldFart 02-21-2016 10:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3419500)
Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?
For a daily driver, probably not, except for the adjustibility - and the chubby ya might get when under the car. What you have listed in your post is almost my exact setup. I can never leave well enough alone, hense my reasoning for doing it.

This was prior to putting the mid links on.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...927_090307.jpg

clkio 04-20-2016 07:52 PM
Bringing this back. Anybody has more info on this? I bought the mid links and I am running coil overs but I need the 2.5 springs to get them to fit. However, I am still not too sure about height (whether to go with 6 or 7") and what spring rate? Thank you

clkio 04-21-2016 06:51 AM
I found tein springs at my buddy's shop that were 7" long and 2.5 in diameter. They fit perfect however I don't know what the spring rate is on them. I will contact SPL and neomotorsports (coilover manufacturer) and see what I can come up with

OptionZero 07-27-2016 05:11 PM
Bumping this thread. I too am experiencing the popping noise when going on ramps

Setup:
Aragosta coilovers w/ pillowball mounts
SPL arms in back: midlink, camber, traction arms
6 inch Swift spring.

Reading the responses above, it appears that adjusting the rear coilover height/length to keep pre-load on teh spring may solve the issue. The Aragosta rears are adjustable, so i'll be playing with that.

DEpointfive0 07-27-2016 08:12 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by OptionZero (Post 3525199)
Bumping this thread. I too am experiencing the popping noise when going on ramps

Setup:
Aragosta coilovers w/ pillowball mounts
SPL arms in back: midlink, camber, traction arms
6 inch Swift spring.

Reading the responses above, it appears that adjusting the rear coilover height/length to keep pre-load on teh spring may solve the issue. The Aragosta rears are adjustable, so i'll be playing with that.
There is no rear preload...

You need to fix your droop most likely

2SIC4U 03-10-2017 10:33 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2759780)
I'm worried about something if someone can help...

I installed the spl mid links and the 6" swift 10kg springs. The car is at a ride height of 26 3/16th on both sides. I don't remember where the car sat before the install with the swift spec-r's. I know it was 26 something, I think high 26. The spl mid link is about half way to get to that height and where spl said it should be.

The issue is if I jack the car up the spring almost falls out of the bucket. If this happened it'd be a total crash or worse! So basically I have zero preload if that's what you call it. I've seen Z's on three wheels before so there is a chance the spring could pop out on a track. Not to mention the loud banging all the time as the spring pops in and out over big holes all the time beating up the upper and lower buckets.

What do I do? Buy an adjustable length shock?

Almost popping out, only one side jacked up.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps5cf10557.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc75c962d.jpg


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps29cbc155.jpg

You need a helper spring Swift Helper Springs to keep a load on the spring. KW provided me this information as I ran into your same issue Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008. Also you need to find a better alignment shop or if you did this yourself, you need to correctly adjust the top (there is a bolt you can adjust) to move the top spring so when the car is on the ground, the spring still stays straight up and down...vs the way yours is now at a weird angle.

2SIC4U 03-10-2017 10:52 AM
Update:

KW Variant 3 Coil-overs
Hotchkis 370z front sway bar
SPL PRO Front Upper Camber/Caster Arms
SPL PRO Front End Links Spherical
SPL Eccentric lockout kit

SPL TITANIUM Rear Mid Links
SPL TITANIUM Rear Camber Arms
Swift Springs 65mm 5inch 10k
Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008

For those that posted issues with a popping noise or noise when going over bumps. Your issue is you do not have the required helper springs so when you hit a pot hole, bump, or your tire comes off the group, there is no pressure holding your rear springs in the midlink so it's the spring moving...this can be dangerous and your rear spring could come out under the right conditions. My car now drives like it's on rails and is an amazing ride. I have it at the perfect height, no more wheel gap, not slammed, and I can come up an inch or down 2 more inches using the midlink cup.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:26 PM.
Page 5 of 6 « First 34 5 6
Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2