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-   -   Best sway bars and endlinks for 370z? (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/84029-best-sway-bars-endlinks-370z.html)

ubs234 12-27-2013 07:53 PM

Best sway bars and endlinks for 370z?
 
Whiteline, Stillen, Eibach, or Hotchkis?

TerribleONE 12-27-2013 08:04 PM

There are plenty of threads on this. Search is your friend :tup: I am running whiteline and am very happy with them

kenchan 12-27-2013 08:15 PM

I'm with the kangaroo bar as well.

critical 12-27-2013 08:26 PM

My Progress are great. Stock end links for now, till they break lol

XPNSD IT 12-27-2013 08:30 PM

Hotchkis sways and spl end links

ubs234 12-27-2013 08:32 PM

After research I am going with the Whiteline sway bars and endlinks!!! WHOO!!

zguynate 12-27-2013 10:24 PM

I just installed my whitelines today. A friend of mine has them on his Nismo and loves it.

Wonka2581 12-27-2013 10:32 PM

SPL endlinks and Hotchkis... FTW

SPOHN 12-28-2013 03:56 PM

Be nice if SPL would make some sways. Track tested of course

synolimit 12-29-2013 02:04 AM

WL here, felt nothing over stock. Still body rolls like a mother and rear end seems to step out easier.

Everyone says the bigger the better on these cars. Hotchkins has the thickest bar readily available and strongest even being hollow but that's based off of just a straight bars twist. Adding the bends and depending where the mounting hole is located could change its overall strength. I'd like someone to measure the hole so I can see the numbers based off of stock and the WL.

PEPI 12-29-2013 03:17 AM

Hello

I have Whiteline swaybars

BNF41Z Front Sway bar - 27mm heavy duty blade adjustable
BNR37Z Rear Sway bar - 24mm heavy duty blade adjustable

LINK
Whiteline Suspension for 370Z Z34 (2008-ON)

Made a world of difference, even running with stock end links. The Zed sits very flat turn in turn out - body roll is minimal. Of course with aftermarket decent suspension etc can only improve the sway bars full capability.

If I may suggest one thing - which ever brand you go with?
As aftermarket sway bars are adjustable, I would strongly recommend that you make no adjustments (other than manufacturers recommended settings) until you have the other necessary after market equip. To start changing settings while running stock everything else can/will lead to premature wear/breakage (usually while the car is in motion) and adversely upset the balance of the car.

Just to be safe than sorry until you have other mods to match/compliment/enhance swaybars.

Cheers

kenchan 12-29-2013 08:11 AM

I've seen a few posts with broken whiteline adjustable endlinks.

Chuck33079 12-29-2013 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 2628962)
I've seen a few posts with broken whiteline adjustable endlinks.

Mine broke. Buy SPL.

Super Werty 12-29-2013 10:04 AM

I went Eibach...body roll was dramatically reduced. Very stiff ride but I LOVE it!

Rusty 12-29-2013 12:11 PM

Hotchkis bars, SPL end links. :D

wrxrcr 12-29-2013 01:01 PM

Progress sways?

kenchan 12-29-2013 01:18 PM

wat? Lol

critical 12-29-2013 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrxrcr (Post 2629229)
Progress sways?

these ones:

Progress Technology: Anti-roll bars, sport springs, coil-overs, camber kits and more since 1995!

they're sold in the Nissan motorsports catalog as well.

synolimit 12-29-2013 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrxrcr (Post 2629229)
Progress sways?

Stiffer is supposedly better for these cars in the front, more bar the better. Based off of just a straight bar (doesn't include the 6 bends or mounting hole locations) the hotchkins is the strongest at 35x10mm while that progress is only 35x6mm. In terms of twist or motion of inertia the hotchkins is 140% stiffer (I believe. MoI is 5.45 vs 3.89. WL is 2.61 and OEM is 1.71). Now if the progress bar has a mounting hole closer to flat part of the original straight piece before it was bent then the progress could be stiffer. Only way to tell is measure each hole to find out which ones closer.

Now since the progress is sold individually I'd say that's a pretty good bar to buy! The hotchkins rear is useless! Since most keep OEM or hell, they remove it all together! I yelled at hotchkins last night and asked why the hell are you not splitting them? You're losing customers because no one wants the rear.

critical 12-29-2013 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2629402)
Stiffer is supposedly better for these cars in the front, more bar the better. Based off of just a straight bar (doesn't include the 6 bends or mounting hole locations) the hotchkins is the strongest at 35x10mm while that progress is only 35x6mm. In terms of twist or motion of inertia the hotchkins is 140% stiffer (I believe. MoI is 5.45 vs 3.89). Now if the progress bar has a mounting hole closer to flat part of the original straight piece before it was bent then the progress could be stiffer. Only way to tell is measure each hole to find out which ones closer.

Now since the progress is sold individually I'd say that's a pretty good bar to buy! The hotchkins rear is useless! Since most keep OEM or hell, they remove it all together! I yelled at hotchkins last night and asked why the hell are you not splitting them? You're losing customers because no one wants the rear.

i might jack up the car today. what measurement are you referring to?

remove the rear bar? i drove with only the front before i did my rear sway and it felt weird, wasn't as sharp with the OEM.

synolimit 12-29-2013 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by critical (Post 2629409)
i might jack up the car today. what measurement are you referring to?

remove the rear bar? i drove with only the front before i did my rear sway and it felt weird, wasn't as sharp with the OEM.

If you laid the bar against a wall (the front longest flat part), then measured from the wall to the first mounting hole (the front side of the hole closest to the wall), that'd tell you who's is the strongest. Basically its like the WL has two holes. The first hole is stronger then the back hole. So Hotch vs progress, if the progress hole is like an inch closer, it might be strongest.

Some do. Lots leave the rear stock. What do you mean not as sharp? Stock sways felt better then stock rear with aftermarket front?

Chuck33079 12-29-2013 03:32 PM

I'm perfectly happy running hotchkis front and rear bars. Rear is set at the middle hole. Very neutral until you get on the gas.

synolimit 12-29-2013 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2629429)
I'm perfectly happy running hotchkis front and rear bars. Rear is set at the middle hole. Very neutral until you get on the gas.

Wonder if you're different from running so much weight from the TT up front.

Chuck33079 12-29-2013 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2629449)
Wonder if you're different from running so much weight from the TT up front.

Who knows. If I had to guess, it's only ~40-50 lbs net weight increase, with maybe 1/3 of that ahead of the front axle. I couldn't tell you if that's enough to shift the balance of the car forward.

synolimit 12-29-2013 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2629459)
Who knows. If I had to guess, it's only ~40-50 lbs net weight increase, with maybe 1/3 of that ahead of the front axle. I couldn't tell you if that's enough to shift the balance of the car forward.

Well I know what several people run or want to run, Dorans rear would be a good idea of what to do. However since he's forced to run 245/275 that might be a moot point.

Chuck33079 12-29-2013 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2629467)
Well I know what several people run or want to run, Dorans rear would be a good idea of what to do. However since he's forced to run 245/275 that might be a moot point.

I'm also on softer springs (eibachs) than most, so there's a good chance it would be too much bar in back if i went to a coilover setup. For a daily driver, I'd rather run too much bar and not enough spring just to keep from beating myself to death.

PEPI 12-29-2013 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 2629194)
Hotchkis bars, SPL end links. :D


Hi Rusty
Do the SPL endlinks work with other sway bar makes?
Whiteline only make front ones.

Cheers

Chuck33079 12-29-2013 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PEPI (Post 2629473)
Hi Rusty
Do the SPL endlinks work with other sway bar makes?
Whiteline only make front ones.

Cheers

Whiteline most certainly makes rear endlinks. They're garbage. I've got a broken set sitting on a shelf in my garage right now. SPL links will work with any sway bar that I can think of. They won't break, and they cost ~$30 more. It's a no-brainer.

It's very odd. I've ran pretty much the entire Whiteline catalog on other vehicles and been very happy. The endlinks are the first failure I've ever had of one of their parts.

synolimit 12-29-2013 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2629472)
I'm also on softer springs (eibachs) than most, so there's a good chance it would be too much bar in back if i went to a coilover setup. For a daily driver, I'd rather run too much bar and not enough spring just to keep from beating myself to death.

Ahh see that's making sense. The track guys I'm talking about are very stiff. Stocks like 8.1kg and I'm going to 13kg coilover.

synolimit 12-29-2013 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2629476)
Whiteline most certainly makes rear endlinks. They're garbage. I've got a broken set sitting on a shelf in my garage right now. SPL links will work with any sway bar that I can think of. They won't break, and they cost ~$30 more. It's a no-brainer.

It's very odd. I've ran pretty much the entire Whiteline catalog on other vehicles and been very happy. The endlinks are the first failure I've ever had of one of their parts.

Whats the difference? Thickness? Subis run kart boy solid links. Why not 370's? I could make some steel ones :tup:

Chuck33079 12-29-2013 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2629492)
Whats the difference? Thickness? Subis run kart boy solid links. Why not 370's? I could make some steel ones :tup:

The threads strip on the whiteline links. I've got a set with the first 3/4" of the threaded part worn smooth. My guess is they use softer steel than they should.

I ran a set of Kartboys on several Subies with no complaints. Before you go to too much effort take a look at the SPL ones. They seem plenty beefy and they're still fairly reasonably priced.

synolimit 12-29-2013 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2629495)
The threads strip on the whiteline links. I've got a set with the first 3/4" of the threaded part worn smooth. My guess is they use softer steel than they should.

I ran a set of Kartboys on several Subies with no complaints. Before you go to too much effort take a look at the SPL ones. They seem plenty beefy and they're still fairly reasonably priced.

The question would be though, would we need a link that has to move some with the hem joints or whatever they're called or can a solid link be used?

Chuck33079 12-29-2013 04:53 PM

I'd imagine we need something OEM style, but I'll defer to the hardcore track guys on that one.

Gibby1113 12-30-2013 04:59 PM

Anyone know if eibachs are hollow or solid bars? Thanks

synolimit 12-30-2013 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibby1113 (Post 2631135)
Anyone know if eibachs are hollow or solid bars? Thanks

Everyone's hollow but whiteline. They're 32x7mm.

Gibby1113 12-30-2013 05:31 PM

Whitelines are good but they're pricey. Wonder if they're worth the price. Wonder why hotchkis are more expensive if they aren't even solid.

Super Werty 12-30-2013 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibby1113 (Post 2631190)
Whitelines are good but they're pricey. Wonder if they're worth the price. Wonder why hotchkis are more expensive if they aren't even solid.

a solid bar is not necessarily stronger/stiffer.

synolimit 12-30-2013 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibby1113 (Post 2631190)
Whitelines are good but they're pricey. Wonder if they're worth the price. Wonder why hotchkis are more expensive if they aren't even solid.

When twisting a straight bar back and forth, WL vs Hotch vs eibach, Hotch is the strongest. It doesn't matter that its hollow. The more area makes up for it. It's called motion of inertia. WL is like 2.61cm^4, Hotch is 5.45cm^4 and eibach like 3.23cm^4. So even hollow it's almost double the strength.

HOWEVER...mounting holes play a role. If the Hotch is like 12" away from the bars center and the WL is like 10.8 on the first hole and 11.5" on the second hole, it gets some of that loss back. Not sure if it shoots to the lead but you get the idea. Only way to know is to measure each bar and if they're all the same really than the Hotch wins.

Gibby1113 12-30-2013 05:56 PM

Thanks for sharing bud. Rep coming for the physics lesson :tiphat:
I just want to make sure I'm getting the right one cuz I can't afford purchasing something that's gonna snap on me or something.

synolimit 12-30-2013 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibby1113 (Post 2631234)
Thanks for sharing bud. Rep coming for the physics lesson :tiphat:
I just want to make sure I'm getting the right one cuz I can't afford purchasing something that's gonna snap on me or something.

Lol. Your endlinks will fail over time. Save up over the months and get spl. They're not needed right away. I still have OEM ones. Depending on your driving the Hotch might be over kill. For track though I think I'm going to have to sell my WL. Still no idea on mounting holes though for anyone but OEM and my WL.


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