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-   -   Installed SPC rear camber kit after installing swift and got an alignment! (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/83944-installed-spc-rear-camber-kit-after-installing-swift-got-alignment.html)

XwChriswX 01-05-2014 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jooonnn (Post 2637698)
Hey chuck im a bit new to this to but from what im learning from this thread is that you would need front camber arms AND one pair of toe bolts to utilize these springs with alignment adjustability. You would not need new camber arms for stock alignment settings. Does that sound right?

Lastly, Would you need two sets of the toe bolts for oem rear control arms (if so, why) or just one? Thats the last part thats confusing me when the z1 site mentions camber arm and spring perch locations.

Again all hell would be greatly appreciated! Im here to soak up all i can learn!


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If you're only going to do lowering springs, front camber arms are not really necessary. Rears aren't completely as lowering springs don't lower you enough to take you dangerously out of alignment... But they're a good idea.

You would only "need" rear camber arms and toe bolts due to them being adjusted from 2 separate locations that interact with each other. The fronts being a true coilover setup would just need front camber arms if you wanted.

The reason for this is the stock arms offer very little, if any, adjustability.

You will only need toe bolts for the rear. The front is a different setup.

synolimit 01-05-2014 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 2638455)
If you're only going to do lowering springs, front camber arms are not really necessary. Rears aren't completely as lowering springs don't lower you enough to take you dangerously out of alignment... But they're a good idea.

You would only "need" rear camber arms and toe bolts due to them being adjusted from 2 separate locations that interact with each other. The fronts being a true coilover setup would just need front camber arms if you wanted.

The reason for this is the stock arms offer very little, if any, adjustability.

You will only need toe bolts for the rear. The front is a different setup.

The fronts are necessary if the specs arent close to equal. Ive seen a 0.6* difference which is no good. The actual camber numbers aren't bad though around high negative 1's.

Rears are 100% necessary no ifs ands or buts!! Swifts will get you mid to high -2's and even into the -3's! Way way to much rear camber. Sub -1.8 is what you want.

Front offer zero adjustment, none.

XwChriswX 01-05-2014 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2638480)
The fronts are necessary if the specs arent close to equal. Ive seen a 0.6* difference which is no good. The actual camber numbers aren't bad though around high negative 1's.

Rears are 100% necessary no ifs ands or buts!! Swifts will get you mid to high -2's and even into the -3's! Way way to much rear camber. Sub -1.8 is what you want.

Front offer zero adjustment, none.

My fronts right now are hilarious. I'm on my winter wheels/tires, so its exaggerated. FL: -2.4* FR: -2.7* I will be ordering front camber arms later this month though, and have those installed when I go back with the summer wheels/tires. Get them set to a -1.8*.

My rears right now are -1.6* and -1.5* L/R respectively, I figured to cut the guy a break and not be overly ocd and have them both match since each time he adjusted one, it would alter the other. :icon17:

Yeah, the stock arms are a waste really. Chunk those. :icon17:

synolimit 01-05-2014 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 2638482)
My fronts right now are hilarious. I'm on my winter wheels/tires, so its exaggerated. FL: -2.4* FR: -2.7* I will be ordering front camber arms later this month though, and have those installed when I go back with the summer wheels/tires. Get them set to a -1.8*.

My rears right now are -1.6* and -1.5* L/R respectively, I figured to cut the guy a break and not be overly ocd and have them both match since each time he adjusted one, it would alter the other. :icon17:

Yeah, the stock arms are a waste really. Chunk those. :icon17:

That's actually a good front. Not great for DD probably but I'd take it! I have used swifts ready to go. I'd love to see those numbers.

XwChriswX 01-05-2014 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2638505)
That's actually a good front. Not great for DD probably but I'd take it! I have used swifts ready to go. I'd love to see those numbers.

For tracking sure, but not for DD. :icon17: So I'll have them pulled back.

I just had the Fortune Auto 500s installed with Swift springs, so I'm looking forward to fine tuning that.

NaderS. 03-11-2014 04:57 AM

just get rear toe bolts, front camber arms aren't as necessary as most people make it. When you lower you car the front isn't affected as much as you would think.

Chuck33079 03-11-2014 06:40 AM

Except when I lowered my car with Eibachs I needed camber arms to get back in spec.

gstraw 03-11-2014 08:25 AM

All this chat about needing more suspension changes is really putting me off :(

My plan was to get Eibachs springs and 25mm spacers. I seem to be getting confused with products available so maybe someone can advise:

In the uk, we have access to Camber Bolts for the rear : Eibach Rear Camber Correction Kit - 370Z - FUNKY POWER

and we have access to Camber kit for the rear (Which seems to come with the bolts linked above) :
350z SPC Rear Adjustable Camber Arm | Tarmac Sportz

then we also have the front camber arms: Eibach Front Camber Correction Kit - 370Z - FUNKY POWER

Now, can somone please advise why anyone would get the rear camber arms if the rear camber bolts can do the 'same adjustment'? both items say they can do +- 3 degrees of camber.

lastly, what is the normal camber adjustment on the stock camber bolts? if its something like +- 2 degrees, then these bolts (the 1st link) would provide an additional 1 degrees of adjustment?

im keen to learn from people who also have this eibach setup and what they done to get the camber back since this seems to be a very subjective area. Fund are low so if loweing turns out to be too expensive, i'll just wack on some eibach 25mm spacers and not lower although my amuse kit may look odd on a non lowered car.

thanks

gstraw 03-27-2014 05:52 PM

Bump!

khsysh 03-28-2014 10:14 AM

The toe bolts wasnt installed correctly by mechanic. He was really stupid. I had to read manual and thought him what was wrong. Just make sure u have to drill the toe bolts.

khsysh 03-28-2014 10:19 AM

Taught*


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