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I recently ordered the entire spl line up from A to Z...along with dss axels, an os. Giken diff and new tires..i can't wait to get my car back so i can feel the difference. This post is awesome. Great write up...rep'd
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Thanks in advance Rusty :tiphat: |
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The front tie rod kit may not allow aftermarket wheels to fit. Depending on width, and offset. Also it would be best to have a race shop set them up to get the bump steer correct. They are not something that you install and forget. You have to play around with them. |
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Kyle at Import Parts Pro (site sponsor) got me the best deal on the SPL stuff. See his thread in the Suspension Parts sponsor section
The Tie rods ends are very, very good but if you aren't going super low i wouldn't prioritize them. Like Rusty said, the front upper control arms are the biggest thing Note that what type of coilovers you get will affect whether you need to get the rear mid-links or the toe arms If you get "true" type coilovers (spring wrapped around the strut), you don't need the midlinks, you want the toe arms (there is no spring bucket needed) If you get an "OEM" type (spring separate from strut) you'll need the mid-link arms that have a mounting point for the springs. ALSO note that its built for a 2.5inch diameter spring. Swift Springs will be a needed part of that equation, they come in the right diameter and a variety of specs. Oh, and if you're doing either mid-links or toe arms, get their eccentric lockout kit. It eliminates toe adjustment from the OEM bolts and eliminates the play in those bolts. You get toe adjustment from the arm itself (threaded adjuster) Just get the fronts for now and you're good. Save up for the full rear setup later and get a full alignment. I would skip any of the diff or subframe bushings unless you have damaged/worn OEM bushings until absolutely last. They make an undeniable difference in stiffening up the rear end, but it WILL cause a noticeable difference in ride quality AND the install is a complete pain in the ***. You have to drop the diff/subframe and get a press. There may be fire involved. I did the full SPL solid bushings (and threw in some custom other ones too!) in the rear of my S14. Responsive as hell, no doubt. But it was a ton of trouble installing and the ride was bone jarring afterwards on the street. No going back at that point |
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You got me debating whether I should get the mid link arms or not. I do have Swift springs on my Powertrix coilovers but was wondering what benefit would these links bring to the overall suspension feel/ride? |
Well, you're replacing rubber (worn rubber, depending how much mileage/use you have on your car) with metal, so there's a big difference right there.
SPL uses good joints that are self-lubricating so they're durable. You will "feel more of the road" in ordinary driving How harsh it is in daily driving will also be affected by tire and coilover quality. Your personal tolerance level is gonna be different from everyone elses. My Z is not my daily driver, but i have good coils (Aragosta Type-S), so even with low profile (25 series in back) and all the SPL arms (still have rubber diff/subframe bushings), its very tolerable. I got mine mainly for the adjustability. I am fairly low and have aggressive fitment, so the arms were needed. The best way to find out is to ask around your fellow Z owners to see if anyone equipped with SPL stuff is willing to let you drive/ride in the car. Since you're in socal it should be feasible, plenty of modded Z's around |
Well installed bc coils and the fronts rub, do I really need front camber arms or can I adjust front bc plates for negative camber
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our cars don't use camber plates
http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/...-design-05.jpg Camber is adjusted by that wishbone shaped arm. OEM you don't get worthwhile adjustment, if at all Thats why everyone should be rocking the SPL FUCA |
Where can I purchase the spl fronts best price tho. Thanks
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