The main things to get would be the upper control arms, If you change sway bars, the end links. In the rear, camber arms. If your rear diff bushing is shot (leaking). The solid bushing kit or the White Line solid bushing kit.

The front tie rod kit may not allow aftermarket wheels to fit. Depending on width, and offset. Also it would be best to have a race shop set them up to get the bump steer correct. They are not something that you install and forget. You have to play around with them.

Thank you Rusty and yes I have Stillen sway bars installed so I'll get those end links as well. I don't have aftermarket wheels but may get some later so I'll skip on the tie rod.

I bought the front camber arms, traction arms, rear camber arms and eccentric lock out kit from forum so i got a discount there but everything else i just bought from kyle Puckett (kyle houston forum sponsor) but off the top of my head i would say 4k give or take 100$

Kyle at Import Parts Pro (site sponsor) got me the best deal on the SPL stuff. See his thread in the Suspension Parts sponsor section

The Tie rods ends are very, very good but if you aren't going super low i wouldn't prioritize them.

Like Rusty said, the front upper control arms are the biggest thing

Note that what type of coilovers you get will affect whether you need to get the rear mid-links or the toe arms

If you get "true" type coilovers (spring wrapped around the strut), you don't need the midlinks, you want the toe arms (there is no spring bucket needed)

If you get an "OEM" type (spring separate from strut) you'll need the mid-link arms that have a mounting point for the springs. ALSO note that its built for a 2.5inch diameter spring. Swift Springs will be a needed part of that equation, they come in the right diameter and a variety of specs. Oh, and if you're doing either mid-links or toe arms, get their eccentric lockout kit. It eliminates toe adjustment from the OEM bolts and eliminates the play in those bolts. You get toe adjustment from the arm itself (threaded adjuster)

Just get the fronts for now and you're good. Save up for the full rear setup later and get a full alignment.

I would skip any of the diff or subframe bushings unless you have damaged/worn OEM bushings until absolutely last. They make an undeniable difference in stiffening up the rear end, but it WILL cause a noticeable difference in ride quality AND the install is a complete pain in the ***. You have to drop the diff/subframe and get a press. There may be fire involved.

I did the full SPL solid bushings (and threw in some custom other ones too!) in the rear of my S14. Responsive as hell, no doubt. But it was a ton of trouble installing and the ride was bone jarring afterwards on the street. No going back at that point

Thanks for the very detailed response :tiphat:

You got me debating whether I should get the mid link arms or not. I do have Swift springs on my Powertrix coilovers but was wondering what benefit would these links bring to the overall suspension feel/ride?

Well, you're replacing rubber (worn rubber, depending how much mileage/use you have on your car) with metal, so there's a big difference right there.

SPL uses good joints that are self-lubricating so they're durable.

You will "feel more of the road" in ordinary driving

How harsh it is in daily driving will also be affected by tire and coilover quality. Your personal tolerance level is gonna be different from everyone elses. My Z is not my daily driver, but i have good coils (Aragosta Type-S), so even with low profile (25 series in back) and all the SPL arms (still have rubber diff/subframe bushings), its very tolerable.

I got mine mainly for the adjustability. I am fairly low and have aggressive fitment, so the arms were needed.

The best way to find out is to ask around your fellow Z owners to see if anyone equipped with SPL stuff is willing to let you drive/ride in the car. Since you're in socal it should be feasible, plenty of modded Z's around

Well installed bc coils and the fronts rub, do I really need front camber arms or can I adjust front bc plates for negative camber

our cars don't use camber plates

http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/...-design-05.jpg

Camber is adjusted by that wishbone shaped arm. OEM you don't get worthwhile adjustment, if at all

Thats why everyone should be rocking the SPL FUCA

Where can I purchase the spl fronts best price tho. Thanks

As OptionZero suggested, try "Kyle at Import Parts Pro" (site sponsor) or Kamispeed where I actually bought a few SPL parts.

yeah, the vendor here, Kyle (Import Parts Pro) had the best price, better than SPL's website

I think a place near you , Corner 3 Garage MIGHT stock it, but it doesn't look within driving distance of San Diego AND california tax is gonna get you

Awesome , corner3garage will install and do alignment , I'm like 55miles away

How did you pry down on the coilover? My regular spring seems like it's much more in the way than your Nismo springs. I couldn't even get it halfway compressed enough to remove the bolt and then the top mount plate made a horrible noise ...

**update** The top mount plate is fine. It appears the noise I heard was the stud(s) threads rubbing past the holes in the fender well. Before reinstallation I will check the threads and see if they need any repair (a proper tap and die kit might be in my future lol)

As for the bolt... I'm just an idiot. Even after getting the bolt clear of the spring, I was still having trouble removing it. The bolt head was pushing up against the top of the dust boot where the rubber is thicker (see attached photo). Finally, I realized I could just pull down the dust boot completely out of the way and have a ton more room :facepalm:

Did you unbolt the sway bar like I told you to do?

I removed the nut, but I never actually took the sway bar off the bolt. Just sliding the dust boot down was enough.

Any regrets with going solid bushings everywhere? I'm worried about too much vibration on the street.

Going with everything SPL. The only increase I noticed was when I installed the rear sub-frame bushings. To me, it wasn't that much of an increase. My Z is noisy anyway.

Thanks for the info! I am currently considering going with all SPL up front and using whiteline bushings in the knuckles with SPL arms in the rear.

Thank you Rusty and others for this thread. However, I have installed the front arms, and I have followed the steps by making them almost identical to the stock arm. After that I took the car to the alignment people with the machine (Hunter machine).
The rear part was easy and straight forward. But the front one, he said that there is no way to do the alignment while the wheels are on, we have to take the wheels off and do the alignment.
I thought we will be able to do it while the wheels (front wheels) are on. However, he insisted to remove the front wheels.

Now my question is, while we are aligning the car wheels, the font ones, do we really need to take the wheels/tiers off?

Can someone help me with a video or pictures of step-by-step on how to align the front SPL front uper arm, because, I have searched over Youtube and I couldnt find any.

I will be grateful with your help and support, so then I can fix the alignment of the front wheels.

Regards,
NASM

Mine has been aligned with the wheels on. The guy agot to everything from under.

Mine too. Done with the wheels on the car.

Can you Spooler or Rusty, share a link of a video or images/pictures on how they are doing it? Please ... while the wheels are on the car, without removing them. I will be grateful.

Any update please guys .. at least maybe someone might help with this .. I am planning to do it this weekend ...