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Price request for the V3's please.
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Sigh... :ugh2: |
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Terrorists Win!
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Just as an aside, the 370z chassis is not designed for the coil spring to load the SHOCK tower.... and in the interest of giving some usable room under the hatch they have also removed the reinforcement found in the 350.....the Aluminum tube is for side impact only...and putting a coilover on the rear also kills one inch of tire/wheel clearance (12" is a bit much I guess) But the boosted boys will need all the room they can find...lol. Soooo until the Robispec 370 is caged..and we reinforce the shock tower to take the loads, I will keep the stock spring location....(it doesn't look like the 370 will coil bind out like the 350 did...) so it looks safe. |
What is the spring rate (kg) ? I am using the middle for the fronts but (if I remember correctly..may have to double check) I'm running 5or6 compression and 7 rebound in the rear and that seems stiff still on the roads we have here. Don't see how you can keep a soft ride in the rear running as stiff as you say unless the spring just matches perfect. Also how many different springs did you test before settling on what you did ?
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This is a moving target right now with the stock front sway and no rear sway (we have a base model without limited slip) we started with 8k fronts and 9k rears (70mm ID high wind race springs so they cant coil bind) this was good for SEMA as they got the car low with enough travel for a GREAT RIDE. This changed when we went with the Whiteline front sway (soft) upped the rear to 10 k and stayed with the front for a twisty Button willow 31 clockwise configuration at the Super Lap Battle finals(placed 4th overall and second 370 Street RWD and .75 back on the Import tuner Turbo charged 370z). Added even more rear spring (12k) and set the front bar stiff at AAA speedway for the Redline finals(2nd Stock class and 2nd 370 by 0.10). I'm at WSIR as I write this and we had gone up on both the front(10k) and rear (14k) and the car has lost grip..(more on the rear than the front). so I think a stiffer front sway will help with the balance more than the extra spring...this will all go out the window with the change in damper valving though lol and we will start from base line again. Compression valves are maxed front and rear and the rebound valves are almost all the way open...thats why we are changing the valving again... Robi |
wow that's nuts..pretty much not even a KW coilover setup anymore then is it ? Reason I was even asking these questions is because I wanted to try a similar setup on my car on my KW V3 setup since I wanna track my car and I'm a novice at it so I was thinking with the research you are putting into it I would have a good starting point and was going to go off of your recommendation. Keep in mind I still DD my car and travel to shows so I'm guessing 12 is the most I should go but for DD is that too much ? I also realize this is parts specific.
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I have the KW V3's being sent to my house, do I need to order anything else such as camber arms, special alignment kits, etc.. Or will I just be fine with an alignment?
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I only plan on lowering it .6", I still need the camber arms? Which brand is better?
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