This is it here:

Pro Alignment Kit - Nissan 370Z Buy suspension from Eibach including adjustable suspension and automotive coil springs. 72 370Z Rear

Hope that is what I need, just ordered it :|

Cancel your order if you can and go with SPL

i dunno why i have to keep saying this

SPL

Its been shipped already.

Whats wrong with the Eibach arms?

Well another member said I probably don't need rear camber but will most likely need to adjust front camber.

Problem is I only ordered the eibach rears and in Australia I cannot find front camber arms. I looked on Z1 but there are so many different items I do not know which one to get. There are front camber arms, front control upper arms, I do not know what the differende is and which one I will need? For the sole purpose of fitting the front Work wheels on properly and nicely without wearing out tires quickly, can anyone help me choose here please, thanks.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-3982.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-7360.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-9584.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...ms-p-8534.html

I know zero, but there is some helpful info here if I wanted to learn.

PS I had nothing to do with the title, so don't read anything into it.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ion-parts.html

I read the eBay guide on Camber kits lol.

According to that guide if lowering less than an inch we normally won't need to adjust camber.

Ok. Go find out the hard way even though there is ample information here to the contrary. Why do you ask for advice and then argue against it?

How was that an argument, I was just stating what eBay wrote. I didn't agree or disagree with it. And link to the information you are referring to?

Search for it yourself. There are tons of threads here with what you need. This forum needs to stop spoon feeding you information.

But I am a baby, I need to be spoon fed! :drama:

Pretty much. Your entire post history backs that up. Read more, post less.

Babies can't spoon feed themselves, they will die.:stirthepot:

We should be so lucky.

That's horrible!

This doesn't make sense to me...

Swift = 1.2" F - 1.0" R
Ark GT-S = 1.4" F - 1.2" R

That's less than a 1/4" difference front and rear going from Swift to Ark. That's like the thickness of an iPhone. How can only dropping that much more all of a sudden cause you to scrape everywhere and damage mufflers?

When I had my '91 Miata, I had it lowered on coilovers, 1.75" front and 1.5" rear. That car sat a lot lower than a Z on Ark springs and I didn't bottom out and scrape on stuff with it at all. The only issue I had was a little scrubbing on full lock in the front.

Not arguing, just trying to understand that post.

Here's a good comparison between stock springs and Ark GT-S springs...

http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s10...43857337-5.jpg

http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s7/...87532741-5.jpg

BTW, that pic above was after rolling right off the rack. I only drove it about 100 feet down the lot and 100 feet back, swerving a little bit both ways to try and "settle" down the ride height. I've been driving on these springs for two weeks now and they haven't settled anymore than what you see above.

Also, a couple quick questions which I have yet to see asked...

1) Has anyone had issues running into the bump stops with lowering springs?
2) Has anyone ever had issues with the drive shaft having less movement between the output shaft of the transmission and input shaft of the differential?

Although the static ride height difference may be negligible, the spring rate at those heights may have a difference in excess of 50-250ib/in.

A softer spring will allow more ride undulation. Given the fact they are both dual rate progressive springs, the length and transitional rates could be massively different.

*** After further research, the swift spring actually is the stiffer overall spring. The coil diameter is larger and has a higher rate for the tighter wind coils "dead coils". The transitional rate between soft and stiffer would probably be smaller overall. So even though the ARK srpings sits a marginal amount higher, the spring travel is greater. Which ark springs is said person talking about though? Gt-s or Gt-f?

So does anyone have anything for these questions? Just curious.

So with ALL of the members on here over ALL of the years of lowering these cars one way or another, no one has any answers for these two questions? Really?...

Question 1. Depending on how low you go. Will determine when you will hit the bump stops and how often. Everyone has hit the bump stops at one time or another. You just don't know it.

Question 2. Lowering the car has nothing the do with the driveshaft between the tranny and diff. Both are fixed in position. The driveshaft doesn't move. It's fixed at the diff. You should be concern about the halfshafts between the diff and knuckle. The diff stays in place the the knuckle moves up and down in an arc.

Q1) I ask about the bump stops because I wanted to know just how close we actually are to them once lowered. On one of the roads I normally drive on almost daily, there's two manhole covers in the middle of the lane, and for whatever reason, the road has a couple of really sharp dips (ripples) between them. While stock, it's quite an abrupt bounce through there. Now that I'm lowered, it's an actual "jolt" going through there. I'm assuming that jolt is from ramming right into the rear bump stops. It does not seem to bother the front at all.

I'm sure we do all ride the bump stops once in a while without knowing it. If our Z's are setup like Miatas, they are designed to compress the springs fully and then gradually compress the bump stops as the bump stops on Miatas are actually factored into the handling of the car. They rely on riding on the bump stops during hard cornering.


Q2) I don't know why, but for some reason, I have been thinking about it as if it were a live axle, which it's not. I wasn't even thinking about the fact that the diff is physically connected to the chassis. Sorry about that.

On that note, what concerns would there be with the half shafts? Only asking for curiosity reasons. I have no plans on ever going any lower than what the Ark GT-S springs give me.

As it is, I sometimes think I should have stuck to my guns and went with the Swifts. Not because of rubbing or bottoming out, but because the front and rear tires tuck a little now which prevents me from using spacers, and also limits me on eventually going with wider meat front and rear.

To get into the halfshafts is long and detailed. It deals with angles of operation, engineering POV. Had to deal with it at work. And I don't feel like getting into right now. But with the Z. You don't have to worry about them. Unless you are pushing mega HP and torque. From a strength POV.

Constantly riding on the bumpstops is NOT a good thing. Slamming the bumps can cause damage and premature failure to the damper. Also considering the low profiles tires, this will be exerting more load on the tire sidewall and ultimately the wheel rim. The miata for example had larger sidewalls, softer tires overall and softer bumpstops with more absorption.

There are however aftermarket bumpstops with tuned bump curves that will allow some further compression instead of hard stops in compression stroke.

I'm inclined to believe the jolt you are feeling is from the rear springs binding the "dead springs" Where as the fronts are already fully bound at normal ride height due to the weight bias. Next time you have car up in the air, check if you see scratches/indentations between the tightly bound coils


With regards to the halfshafts, the suspension geometry as factory is designed to keep the shafts relatively level during normal driving conditions. Increased camber, lower ride height. higher torque loads and blown out bushings can cause premature failure to the boots, the internal cages/races and the shaft itself. Ripped boots is a slower wear issue which usually leads to damaged bearings which is a noticeable failure. Damage to the cages and races would almost definitely be catastrophic failure. A snapped shaft is probably the most preferred failure, in a worse case it will bend and start playing hammer fist with the surrounding suspension pieces. This will probably fail at lowspeed.

There are plenty of details on how it all can fail like Rusty suggested.

I should clarify on this, by saying tuning bump rates should be done professionally. Using original sized bumpstops as a way to tune bump compression is not ideal, certainly with progressive rate springs.

:stirthepot:

Wow! Thanks, this is amazing! Anyone running Ti2000 RS-R Lowering Springs? I never heard of them.

What's up Z nation? Quick feedback guys.
Want to go w/ a "conservative" drop on my Z. Thinking of going w/ the ARK GT-F lowering springs along w/ rear camber arms and toe bolts.
With this "conservative" setup will I need spacers? And if so, what size spacers would you guys recommend?
Any other information or advice on this setup would be greatly appreciated.
#Znation
:tiphat:

Vogtland Lowering Springs
 

FWIW Vogtland Lowering springs are listed as 1 inch drop front and 1 inch rear (according to the manufacturer) but in reality the fronts are probably between 1.5 and 2 inches. Spring rates are 314 front and 423 rear.

Why (as to why on earth I even care) and how I came to know this info is a long story. But that information comes directly from the manufacturer.

I had the Eibach Pro Kit Lowering Springs on my 2015 Mustang Ecoboost and I was a big fan of them. I'm interested in them with the Z because in part, familiarity but it's also the least aggressive drop listed on the first page.

Could someone using these comment on the drop and more importantly the handling/daily drive?

Other than alignment, is there any other work that I should expect or is it a straight swap.
Sorry for the new-b questions. I'm new to the car and there's so much info to sort through since this car's been around for 11 years.

Called H&R. They said they dont release the spring rate because the way they test the rating is different to others. They include the bump stop to their equation. They did say it is stiffer then OEM.

Do the stock OEM Nismo springs have a drop compared to stock non-Nismo springs?

I have OEM Nismo shocks/springs on the 2016 Nismo 370Z. Never touched it yet, and yes I did remove the spring blocks that come with the car during shipping lol.

I could measure the height of the car from the ground to the fender on all 4 corners. Maybe someone can measure their Base/Sport/Touring Z with stock suspension and we can compare it. I know it's not exact science, but it's better than nothing.

I'm also wondering if the stock Nismo suspension lowers the car as much the S-Tune suspension (the red springs and silver shocks that anyone can buy). Supposedly the S-Tune suspension lowers the car 10mm (0.4"). But I'm pretty sure they are comparing this to the stock Z suspension and not the Nismo edition one.

Just for reference:
S-Tune suspension product number is: E3110-1EA00

OEM Spring part numbers:

2015+ Nismo
Front: 54010-6GA1A
Rear: 55020-1EA0B

2009+ Base/Sport/Touring etc.
Front: 54010-6GA0A
Rear: 55020-6GA0A

Since these are different part numbers, the spring rates are going to be different. However I'm wondering whether the spring heights are different as well.

Whenever I get to measuring the cars height, I'll post it here.

I think this might be a suitable thread to post and ask this...

So I finally managed to get the Eibach Pro Lowering Kit installed. It's supposed to be a drop of 20/25mm, but it seems to me like quite a bit lower. Can anyone give me their opinion? Pic below.

Also now I seem to scrape on everything with the front wheel flaps - don't know what they're called, they're behind the bumper, in front of the wheels. Should I remove those?

I kept the stock shocks and the ride is quite a bit stiffer, although not horribly stiff.

Thanks for any input/opinions.


https://i.imgur.com/SkI1E1kh.jpg

That looks about right to me! What size tires are you running


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stock tyres, 19/275/35 and 245/40.

The thing that confuses me are the flaps in front of the front wheels. I measured them today and they're about 3 inches off the ground which makes them scrape on everything. Did anyone remove them? I don't think there's any real purpose in having them.

Do you angle in when entering or existing driveways, or go straight in?