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-   -   Just replaced my brake pads, now it sucks. (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/74394-just-replaced-my-brake-pads-now-sucks.html)

Voice59 07-25-2013 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bking (Post 2417359)
The service guy at Nissan told me I needed to replace the front brake pads. After the change I almost got into an accident because it took a long time for the brakes to stop my car. I thought maybe it's new and needs time to "break-in". After a full day of driving the response from the brakes seemed to have improved but it was not like before. Before the change I needed only to step on the brakes relatively lightly to stop my car, but now I need to step fairly hard to do so.

I called my service guy and he told me these "brembo" brakes takes some time to break-in and told me to go on a highway and hard brake a few times.

I feel like the brakes were not the problem but just the "sensitivity" of the brake pedal with the brakes themselves. Can the brakes be adjusted/calibrated?

Thanks in advance.

Same thing happened to me. Thing is I was there literally from start to finish and watched every part of the procedure. Including the bleeding, and they did it correctly on every wheel. Still I feel like the pedal is a whole lot softer.

kenchan 07-25-2013 11:36 AM

pad compound changed?

JARblue 07-25-2013 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by /Angelo350Z/ (Post 2417829)
But whatever. Apparently he decided to suck at his job instead.

:icon18: Yes. Yes he did.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 2418584)
yep. i didnt have to do any special bedding in for my endless pads either.

not all pads require bedding like we do on high performance pads, although i still do it anyway to make myself feel better. :icon17:

I think the EBC red stuff don't require bedding either. I wasn't able to bed my Hawk Performance Ceramics as precisely as I would have liked due to unexpected traffic at 9 pm, but they are fine and perform much better than the stock pads ever did.

My experience with bedding brakes
( Click to show/hide )
My understanding of the idea of bedding brakes is to get them good and hot to transfer an even layer of pad material to the rotor for proper operation. If you do this too quickly, the layer is likely to be uneven as the pad can quickly and suddenly increase the deposits when certain temperatures are reached (varying with different pads and other conditions). Therefore, you want to do lighter bedding at the beginning to gradually increase the level of deposit. And of course, you never want to engage ABS.

The experience that has worked best for me is starting with 2-3 runs braking from 50mph down to 20mph. Mash down on the brake pedal good, but you don't need to be close to kicking in ABS - just trying to heat them up gradually here. Next are the 60-10 runs, and these are the ones you want to be all in on the braking. Basically you want to brake as hard as possible without engaging ABS - error on the side of braking lighter as ABS will put marks on your rotors or worse, leave uneven spots of pad deposit if hot enough. I usually do 60-20, 60-15, 60-10, 60-5. The quicker you can do these, the hotter your rotors will get. If you can get the rotors good and hot, one good 80-10 will finish the job. I generally do 2-3 when I can't do the previous runs fast enough.

chrischhorn 07-25-2013 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 2418644)
:icon18: Yes. Yes he did.



I think the EBC red stuff don't require bedding either. I wasn't able to bed my Hawk Performance Ceramics as precisely as I would have liked due to unexpected traffic at 9 pm, but they are fine and perform much better than the stock pads ever did.

My experience with bedding brakes
( Click to show/hide )
My understanding of the idea of bedding brakes is to get them good and hot to transfer an even layer of pad material to the rotor for proper operation. If you do this too quickly, the layer is likely to be uneven as the pad can quickly and suddenly increase the deposits when certain temperatures are reached (varying with different pads and other conditions). Therefore, you want to do lighter bedding at the beginning to gradually increase the level of deposit. And of course, you never want to engage ABS.

The experience that has worked best for me is starting with 2-3 runs braking from 50mph down to 20mph. Mash down on the brake pedal good, but you don't need to be close to kicking in ABS - just trying to heat them up gradually here. Next are the 60-10 runs, and these are the ones you want to be all in on the braking. Basically you want to brake as hard as possible without engaging ABS - error on the side of braking lighter as ABS will put marks on your rotors or worse, leave uneven spots of pad deposit if hot enough. I usually do 60-20, 60-15, 60-10, 60-5. The quicker you can do these, the hotter your rotors will get. If you can get the rotors good and hot, one good 80-10 will finish the job. I generally do 2-3 when I can't do the previous runs fast enough.


Not enough road in Hawaii to properly embed the brakes lol.

JARblue 07-25-2013 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrischhorn (Post 2418820)
Not enough road in Hawaii to properly embed the brakes lol.

:icon18: yeah... Texas has just little bit more real estate :icon17:

chrischhorn 07-25-2013 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 2418835)
:icon18: yeah... Texas has just little bit more real estate :icon17:

I miss Texas......Almost been a year since I left. :(

kenchan 07-25-2013 02:57 PM

i have enough dumbarse drivers around my area just dodging them in regular traffic beds brakes nicely each time. :icon17:

/Angelo350Z/ 07-25-2013 07:19 PM

So is your car fixed OP? Did you kill him yet?

Mike 07-25-2013 08:12 PM

you just need to bed them properly. 10 stops, 50-0 in quick succession, let them cool and repeat. Maybe endless pads are prebedded, who knows, but most pads aren't. prebedded are available from carbotech, but its easy enough to bed them on my own.

even in Hawaii, you can get up to 50 and stop several times.

chrischhorn 07-25-2013 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike (Post 2419320)
you just need to bed them properly. 10 stops, 50-0 in quick succession, let them cool and repeat. Maybe endless pads are prebedded, who knows, but most pads aren't. prebedded are available from carbotech, but its easy enough to bed them on my own.

even in Hawaii, you can get up to 50 and stop several times.

Not without crossing a cop...... I swear there is more cops on this tiny *** island then in the state of Texas :shakes head:

DEpointfive0 07-25-2013 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrischhorn (Post 2419432)
Not without crossing a cop...... I swear there is more cops on this tiny *** island then in the state of Texas :shakes head:

AND they roam in the officers' personal cars... So you'll see them in 50 different cars...

chrischhorn 07-25-2013 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2419459)
AND they roam in the officers' personal cars... So you'll see them in 50 different cars...

Yup........my ticket came from a cop in a Toyota 4Runner. The only mark they have on them is the Blue light o top. Theres 2 slammed G35 sedan cop cars, 1 on 370z Sport wheels and another one some chrome big lipped wheels and those are their cop cars....

Bking 07-26-2013 12:20 PM

UPDATE: After I gave them a horrible survey from Nissan Canada, the service manager contacted me and basically apologized for not telling me that new brakes might take a while to break in, and nearly got me into an accident. And it is normal for new brakes to feel "spongy" in the beginning.

Anyhow, I brought my car in this morning and in 30 mins they told me nothing is wrong. The service manager test drove the car and told me the ABS came on so the brakes are mounted correctly. He told me it can take up to 400-500 km (around 275 miles for you southern folks) in order for the brakes to fully break in. I told him about air in the brake lines but he said they never touched the brake lines when changing the brake pad so that was not possible. Also he mentioned that since my car is "5 speed" I will tend to slow my car by downshifting rather than using my brakes. I told him I use SRM and/or shift to neutral all the time and it hardly slows my car down so that's irrelevant. Finally he told me to give it a week or two to see if there are improvements, if not just bring it back in.

Thoughts anyone?

Bking 07-26-2013 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by /Angelo350Z/ (Post 2419258)
So is your car fixed OP? Did you kill him yet?

No I haven't killed him yet. I will see in a week or two.

6MT 07-26-2013 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bking (Post 2417359)
The service guy at Nissan told me I needed to replace the front brake pads. After the change I almost got into an accident because it took a long time for the brakes to stop my car. I thought maybe it's new and needs time to "break-in". After a full day of driving the response from the brakes seemed to have improved but it was not like before. Before the change I needed only to step on the brakes relatively lightly to stop my car, but now I need to step fairly hard to do so.

I called my service guy and he told me these "brembo" brakes takes some time to break-in and told me to go on a highway and hard brake a few times.

I feel like the brakes were not the problem but just the "sensitivity" of the brake pedal with the brakes themselves. Can the brakes be adjusted/calibrated?

Thanks in advance.

Did they resurface the rotors? Or put new rotors on? The pads are really only half a brake job.... there's 2 surfaces involved.


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