Brake bleed clear tubing, inside diameter???
 

Anyone know for certain what inside diameter clear tubing I'd need to fit snugly to do a brake bleed task.:bowrofl:

What kind of task are you doing?

Bleeding the brake system. I'd like to know the ID for the clear tubing that goes over the caliper bleed nipple so when I'm out I can purchase the correct size.

You don't need any hose just put a bucket under each wheel open all 8 bleeders keep the M/C full after you run thru about a quart of fluid tighten all 8 bleeder screws top off M/C then fill a windex bottle of water and hose off the calipers to dulit the brake fluid your done.

either 1/4 or 3/8. the clutch line is a little bit larger than 3/8

:gtfo2: Please do yourself a favor and keep bad advise off the forum.

You have no idea what you are talking about troll!!!!:shakes head:

It's bad that you made that comment b/c it shows that you don't know anything about cars!

Yes, I don't know anything about cars because I don't advise gravity bleeding.

First, gravity bleeding uses gravity to flow fluid meaning that there is very little pressure exerted on the line with very little flow. Small bubbles can still stay in the line.

Second, with such little flow/pressure if you have any air in your ABS system it is almost guaranteed not to work.

Third, you don't actuate the master cylinder and you can still have air stuck in it. I have seen this a number of times even with motive pressure bleeders failing to bleed out the brake system properly especially on older Porsche. (964/993) The motive method is like 99% better then gravity bleeding regardless.

Fourth, Running expensive fluid? Cause gravity bleeding tends to be a big waste. I guess unless I am running around watching each bleeder and then closing them but that seems like more work then bleeding properly. I mean most cars hold about 500ml of fluid so wasting half a bottle of SRF does not sound appealing.

Fifth, Gravity bleeding takes forever simply because of the lack of pressure.

So yea.... :ughdance:

Like I said your comment on this forum doesn't hold water.

Gravity bleeding is bad advise for reasons I posted and I don't see any counter argument to adjust my point of view on the subject. Furthermore, I don't see how relevant your age is to the conversation but I will let you know I am 28. However, I am more curious about your experience working on cars like are you a professional tech?

Well, I figured that info would be in the FSM but all it calls for is "vinyl tubing" (I think they meant PVC). As cheap as the stuff is (you can find it in most hardware, hobby, pet (fish) stores for a few bucks for a 5-10 ft roll), just buy 2-3 different IDs and see which works best. 1/4" or 3/8" ID will probably do the trick but I've never bled the brakes on a 370Z.

By the time he runs around to find that hose I can flush the whole brake system in 20 minutes by myself.:tiphat:

With the method mentioned in post #4, i'd be concerned about getting brake fluid on painted surfaces and/or even onto the pads.

As for method, I highly recommend the motive device. Assuming you're just doing this for preventive maintenance, chances of getting air in the master is unlikely. Maybe the trick is to pump the pedal several times then use the motive device?

As far as the fluid on the pads it doesn't get on them and the calipers are power coated not paint so there are obviously no issues with it.

I don't disagree with you. I follow your basic procedure - put a bucket under it and then wash any spills with soap and water. But it can get pretty messy and, if I ever bleed the brakes on my 370, I'll probably use some tubing. The tubing is not necessary but it sure makes cleanup a lot easier. It also helps keep air out of the line if you are pumping the brake pedal to build up pressure.

You guys are funny:roflpuke2:

When bleeding the brakes and bleeder screws are tight hose them down with water(which dilutes the brake fluid)so I don't know how much cleaner than that.plus if you guys completely understood the brake system you would know that there is no reason for a power bleed (foot/machine)unless you are at dealer and they are bleeding the ABS unit in which case the solenoids need to be in the locked open position to remove any air.

I really don't see what the big deal is. Unless using the tubing can somehow mess things up, what difference does it make? Is it necessary? No. Is it neater? Yes.

yea lets spray coagulated oil across the rotors and pads...mmmm hmmm great idea! motive brake bleeder will take you about 10 min to do the job the right way. :shakes head:

They understand the concept of remove fluid,replace with new and don't get any air in it,the hose is absolutely unnecessary to use when you have to bleed 8 bleeder screws(2 per caliper for those who didn't know that) the water cleans the caliper and flushes away and dilutes it.

What are you guys going to do when you are done bleeding your brakes and you pull off the hose?Do you think that you won't spill a few drops on the caliper? and you will reach for a rag and wipe it off which still leaves it on the caliper so the only easy way to do it is with water hence no need for the hose you are just making more work for yourselves.

!

All of my experience comes from reading chiltons manual. So either the are full of it or you are! Especially if almost everyone on this site is saying that you are not correct with your methods then I would re consider your thoughts.

I just put my mouth on the bleeder and siphon out the fluid that way. Although, sometimes I just pour the fresh brake fluid directly in my mouth :ugh2:

This explains alot!!

You may want to spend less time on the net and more time being Factory trained like myself and then come back with a better response.

Nah I don't have those cards do, I suspect you hand more of those out at the shop or driveway that you work at. Man I hope im not senile when I get your age..fm!

You are one of those trolls that's reads stuff and jump from thread to thread voicing your knowledge.

Some prefer to clean up a mess by not making it in the first place. Some prefer to do the job by-the-book. ;)

I'm no braking system expert - I'll freely admit that my knowledge of ABS/TC/&c is superficial at best and my understanding is even less. And the last brakes I bled were on a '98 Pontiac. But... I have worked with hydraulic systems, both mechanically and control-wise, from the size of a few D cells to 6' radial motors and I've been servicing brakes since the mid-'70s (I may not be doing it right but I always manage to stop). Hydraulics is hydraulics.

If you have been paying attention over the years I get pissy about safety items on cars and people don't have 110% understanding on what they are doing and if you guys have to use a book all the time to work on your cars well then I would leave the safety items to an expert ,you don't hear me say much about regular stuff like taking your door panel or radio out.

Holly crap, settle down guys.:confused: Never in my wildest dreams would I envision a simple question turning to this. I live in a somewhat rural area with not a lot of selection so I just thought I'd ask before I went looking. I was thinking of getting the Phoenix Systems Bleeding Brakes, Brake Bleeding Tools, Brake Fluid Testing You push the old fluid and air up into the M/C. As soon as they email me back and confirm they can ship to Canada via USPS I might just go that route. Thanks for all the input guys, I appreciate it but try to keep the personal insults in check.

Welcome to The370Z. :tiphat:

I have a lot of respect for Baer383. From what I can tell from his previous posts he is very knowledgeable about cars and it would be unwise to ignore his advice. But I think he is going a bit overboard in this case. I believe that he's a good guy and that he is only trying to watch out for other DIYers, but (much like myself :p ) he is rather out-spoken and doesn't mind ruffling some feathers. I like that. ;)

First, You have had no response to my earlier post and saying you are "Factory Trained" is a bit laughable. No manufacture recommends or endorses the method you have outlined feel free to seek Nissan's factory manuals for reference.

Second, Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) and the National Automotive Technicians Education Foundation (NATEF) both specifically recommend the factory method and gravity bleeding is not the factory method and its not a method recognized or taught by ASE or NATEF.


Your advise is not good advise gravity bleeding is a poor way to bleed your brake system. Gravity bleeding can work but its not the best way or a recommended way to bleed brakes. It does not have the flow or pressure to ensure consistent and reliable results.

Your Friend
Ron

Factory Trained, ASE Master Technician #ASE-5378-2655, Past Professional Car Chief (Doran Racing), Current Shop Owner/Operator www.facebook.com/metricgarage.net

Just wondering because I haven't seen it addressed..

Is there any benefit to gravity bleeding other than saving time?

I have done mine this way and some of guys that track there cars are also doing which takes about 20 minutes ,and if you want to discuss ASE cert. and I-car cert.(for Autobody repair) pm me you're fax number and Ill see about getting them down off the wall and fax you a copy.

And the only advantage to a gravity bleed is no chance of introducing air in the system.

i used the motive power bleeder for mine. very very very minimal mess, and easy as pie.

^ qft

qft = queefed
:confused:

Here's what I found. Seems to fit.

heh.. it is pretty cheap stuff to buy. I just picked some up - never paid attention to the actual inner diameter - just got what looks small enough for a snug fit on the bleeder. It happens to be .170 in. Something around that size should be good.

I'd love to see a 20min video of the 'other' method... start to finish. and a nice close-up of your caliper paint - Baer.

I'm sure you would like to watch 20 min of brake fluid running out of calipers,next time your in Georgia you can see mine and SPOHN he also does it this way.

Also once you guys learn the calipers are powercoated then you won't make statement like this.:tiphat:

i just like my work to be clean. nothing against brake fluid getting on calipers but then, i dont want that dripping onto my wheels later if i miss a spot. :eekdance: