Then I don't know what to tell you. Maybe you got a bad one.

You could be suffering from a caliper failure where it is slow in response to pressure and the relief of it. Have you thought of Nissan looking into it? Is it only on one side or are both warped? Im not trying to be prude either but comparing sedan brakes to 4piston brakes is like apples and oranges. 99.9% of sedans have floating calipers in comparison to fixed calipers. When you have a fixed caliper the sensation or warped rotors is more evident or apparent then on a floating caliper. The reason you cant feel it as quickly on a floating caliper is the caliper is able to move and not get any binding from the rotor forcing the caliper inwards or outwards (hope this makes sense).

Also since you brag about your time of 13 minutes (which is cool by any means to brag about times) how much time do you have before you park your car? Is it city driving where you don't have 10 minutes of non brake driving to cool the rotors down? If not that could be the most probable cause in the rotors warping. These cars are designed to take a beating, but HEAT is the most common problem in all aspects:brakes, engine, tires etc.

I'm 28 and have owned 2 mustangs, 2 sentras, 2 ford rangers, 1 Toyota Tacoma (big brake kit) and 1 370z. Only 2 have had 4 piston calipers and my experience with brakes is pretty spot on being that I have glazed rotors and warped them myself too many times to count when I was under 22. Take an honest look at your driving characteristics and maybe there could be probable cause there rather than it being mechanical? Also if you google image search the brembo kit on a mustang it is exactly the same style caliper. Just a fyi all 4,6,and 8 piston brake kits are FIXED calipers just like our Z's.

Hope this info helps.

Your problem most likely has nothing to with the brakes at this point.

Have you checked your steering rack or ball joints/control arms.. I have seen both cause a vibration under braking. Also, they make gauges for caliper pressure to ensure the calipers are working right any dealership/reputable performance shop should have a set of them.

Its a solid rotor as you can imagine its quite the same as the side that is machined except you can't tell its warped in a photo that I am sure I don't have because that was from like 2005. I have another warped rotor on the rear of my car right now from exactly the same problem that warped that one. However, I am not going to machine it down simply for internet rep.. The proof you can warp rotors is clearly shown in that photo if you don't want to believe it then continue to live in ignorance.


-Ron

I said 13 MILES. Five corners, and a maximum of 7 stops. Most from under 50mph.
Point well taken on the calipers.
No other car I have owned has done this. Maybe 370z owners can retrofit ten year old sentra brake kits, or just get into a real car. I'm going to heckle Nissan until they lemon the car, or I break even and trade up. Or they somehow fix it. Other than that, this is crap. What do you get, like 30 seconds of track time per rotor!? Lmao. This is a family car with two seats.

The problem does go away for a few hundred miles each time the brakes are done.

I understand the 5 corners and 7 stops, but if they are hard stops then that is the root cause. 2ndly if not that then maybe a sticking caliper? one way to tell is if you have a temp gun check the rotor temps when you get done driving it. if you jack the car up and try to rotate the wheels, that is a easy way to diagnose. How is the brake fluid quality?

I'll look at the fluid tomorrow. If the brakes can't take a few 60-30's and 45-0's, then why the hell even call it a sports car. Just call it a pos and don't polish the turd. American cars don't have this issue in my experience. Going back to them as soon as I can.

370z's usually dont have any issues and the brakes are in generally very impressive for a factory brake system. You have an issue with something other then the pads/rotors or the people doing the work.

I dunno, the rest of the car has been decent enough, the brakes have totally ruined it thus far, though. I won't recommend Nissan. I won't ever own another one. I want out of this lemon. Pieces of cheap ****.

Hmmm I drive my Z like I stole it and I don't have any issues. I blame it on you being in crappy Louisiana.

I'll never own another American car. Reason 1 everybody has one 2. re-sell is crap.

yeah I think he is right. I would give it one last shot with the oem parts and do a full brake flush on the car before writing Nissan off. It could be the technicians that are incompetent and not necessarily your driving characteristics. Hope that this problem can get resolved either way so that if it happens to another forum member we can use this as a learning lesson.

I was thinking of going with a upgraded rotor/pad set but after seeing some of the stuff import has gone through I am definitely reconsidering that thought.

Hey import if you have time try to jack the car up and rotate the fronts. Pump the brakes a couple of times before that to see if it seizes. also check the quality of the fluid.

Couldn't disagree more. Yesterday I bottomed out on the 405...I still love this place. Do we have our problems? Do some of our roads suck? Did our ball team choke this year? Yes, Yes, and Yes. But like Ice Cube says..."there ain't nothing else like LA." There are many, many worse places to live than on SoCal...especially for a car guy! Not trying to start any ****, just offering a different perspective on our great state and city for anyone not familiar with it.

He's talking about Louisiana, not Los Angeles:tup:

My bad...:thumbdown::banghead::eek:

1. I agree, my state sucks. This might well be the problem. It's why I'm leaving. I have some Class III stuff pending with the BATFE which is why I haven't already. After my SOCOM suppressor and 300BLK SBR clear, I'm gone.

2. Everyone has one...for a reason.

3. I'd like to keep a car until the wheels fall off for once. I've tried doing that with my past American cars, and it happens at well past 150K miles or so when I normally sell them. My import lost its transmission, motor mounts, and a host of other things at around 100K, and this import hasn't made it past 10K before having issues that are still plaguing me at 20K. While looking at SRT products, and remembering what I sold my 'vette for, and looking up KBB on this 370Z, I strongly refute your statement about holding value. The 370Z doesn't for **** compared to other domestics that I have owned or that appeal to me.

You're talking about LA. It's nice there except the crime and politics. Here in my LA, even the crime and politics are glossed over in favor of bitching about even worse things, and we lead the nation in murder.

I'll look at the fluid tomorrow. I know I said that yesterday, but after 12 hours of work and running 5 miles, I forgot about it. The techs working on the car are alright. They are GT-R certified, and the service manager has been in the business for 20 years and has a very good reputation. I don't think they are missing anything obvious.

If my driving style is the issue, I want a refund on the "sport" package, and Nissan needs to change their product brochure to reflect that stopping should not ever occur from above 50mph, nor brake pressure exceed 25% capacity.

The first time I wrecked my OEM rotors/pads was a panic slow on the freeway when some idiot tried to run me off the road. Call it 70-40 pretty quick. Then back to freeway speeds. Ever since then...that was the first time I actually "stabbed" the brakes.

Did it again a while back after they fixed them from 40mph trying to sling the phone that fell and dropped forward from under the seat so I could pick it up at the next stop-sign. Yep. You guessed it. Warped again immediately.

Any time you use the brakes at any real capacity, this piece of crap warps them.

Tq check the caliper bracket. That could cause the rotor to warp via a loose caliper.

One stop should never destroy a set of rotors. I've made plenty of panic stops and used my brakes hard with no issue. There's definitely something wrong with yours, and I'm at a loss as to what it is. You've replaced everything but the calipers, and you'd be able to feel it or hear it if a caliper was frozen. I doubt it's heat related, since you're saying it happened after a single stop. Have YOU gotten under the car and looked around? Are the rotors visibly damaged? Are the pads evenly worn? Is everything torqued down? Something's off in your front end. Lastly, this is a stupid question and I'm not trying to be insulting, but you're not holding the brake pedal down when you're stopped, right?

The rotors look ok to the eye. OEM pads looked glazed after 500 miles after being shaved, have not seen stoptech pads. I typically rock the car on inclines or let it creep on declines, even though I doubt I get it hot enough to matter, its habit. They have replaced so much **** they would have caught poor tq values by now or fixed it inadvertently. This is admittedly my first set of slotted rotors. Could it be that slight front end vibration and steering wheel shimmy/vibrarion under braking is normal with them?

I'm actually looking at the brz. If they came out with an STI model, I might try one more import. Great mileage, and allegedly good handling, and I've heard good crap about subaru. The power isn't really something I worry over. Coming from a c6 z06 to the 370z, I have not missed it, but the brz STI would need a bit nicer interior than the regular brz to seal the deal.

This brake thing is wearing me thin. Handling is #1 for me, and brakes are a big part of that. My z is a disappointment.

How slight is "slight"? I'm running out of ideas. If it were my car, I'd get it up in the air and check that everything is tight myself. There's no replacement for verifying things yourself.

The slots should be cleaning off any glazing on the pads, so it seems odd to me that they're already glazed. My next wild *** guess would be a wheel balance issue. Maybe if it's just a little off you could be feeling it under braking only? I'm grasping at straws at this point.

Did you have an accident, or am I confusing you with someone else? If so, was the front end involved? Maybe something got tweaked there.

If you try another import, Subaru is a good place to start. Although most imports these days are built here, and it seems like a good chunk of domestics are built in Canada or Mexico.

I feel for you. Recurring issues drive me up the wall. At this point I'd try another dealer simply to rule out another variable.

Yes, a girl hit my car. It warped its first rotors thousands of miles earlier, though. Very badly. The alignment was redone twice and the front rims are new and have been rebalanced. The vibration was bad enough last time to loudly rattle the bracelet on ky Explorer II, and not quite there now, but at its rate of progression, will be in another week or two. It seems to get progressively worse every day. I kindof want to wait until its OMFG!?!? Bad before I take it back in to the dealer to help underscore my irritation.

Then I'm pretty much out of guesses. I'd still get under it and make sure everything's tight yourself, and let another dealer take a look at it. There's only so many things it could be, and you've replaced most of the components already.

Can you pull the pads out and make sure that the pistons fully retract into the caliper? Maybe one is dragging ever so slightly.

I just like the looks of the brz, and an STI model would still likely get around 30mpg freeway. I'm planning to move to the Fayetteville, AR area, and on those tight windy but very clean roads, handling and a good gearbox is worth way more to me than brute grunt, so 230-260bhp in a well tuned 2700# car would be great for me. The paycut ill take (about $40k/year make the note cut attractive as well, but not necessary as I have my life in order. Still, that's a case of ammo a month more I can buy, and this isn't lost on me.

I'm going to be coming up on 36k miles in one year, and also nearing time again to replace tires for optimal rainy safety. If i want an extended warranty and tires, that will be at least $3500+ down the tube. I'm not going to pit $3500 more into a car that has constantly been...I like this...but that blows, for me.

This brake issue is brake issue is the last straw, after the wreck. This car is bad luck. Windshield replaced on day three of ownership, dealer dinged it before delivery with the lift arms. The berk cbe fits for **** only one hanger at the tip working, the mid hangers supporting it. The interior suede is showing age faster than I expected. In short...this is not a $43k msrp performing car. I'm not pleased. The brakes are just a constant problem. I'm all around dissatisfied and the brakes piss me off the most becsuee.they are part of that damn sport package I shelled out for and they suck. Worse than any other car. Ever.

The pads are always worn evenly, and the rotors don't have any heat spots. My dealership really is a decent place. I want to continue with them for the sake of continuity, and the manager seems in good with Nissan regional.

What's the harm in letting someone else take a look at it? Your dealership has been completely unable to solve your problem. A second opinion never killed anyone.

I'll have it done, but I have all aftermarket parts...at the other service managers suggestion...that won't go over the best.

Other than interior wear and the brakes, what's wrong with it that is a Nissan issue? The other things you mentioned are either bad luck or, in the case of the exhaust, shoddy workmanship. Why not throw a case of beer at someone at a muffler shop to get the hangars fixed?

Brake pads and rotors being aftermarket should not be an issue since they're wear items. You've got all the paperwork from the same thing happening with stock parts. Might as well let them take a look. Maybe a fresh set of eyes on it will help.

I guess the wreck had me on the fence. Now this brake issue is really getting at me. The car never really "sang" to me. Sure, I learned to drive a front heavy sports car, and acceleration is more than plenty, and it looks great, but 24mpg highway for this level of speed is fail, the thin paint has me worried about long term wear and looks, I guess its just one of those cars that you're like "if someone totalled my car today and i wasnt hurt, I'd not yell or be mad so long as I got my $." You know? It was always kindof "well...ok" and niw its in the shop more and more for brakes, and that has made a car I felt "ok I guess" about into a car I don't much enjoy. That and a gear box that grinds every now and then on cold days and is hard as hell to shift when I drive it for the first time after a rain (wtf...why?) I use mt-85 redline fluid in it, fwiw. I dunno, its just not a car I love, and its dicked up now, and id rather dump it than try to care sums it up best.

I told myself the same thing. I had a super low mile 350Z I got for a outstanding deal. I totaled that one (Not my fault) and I said I'll give the 370Z a try. But I will admit if I lose this one I will stick to a cheaper reliable car IE Honda.

I am getting to that age where speeds and looks don't mean much to me nomore.

Now I have no regrets getting the 370Z beside the horrible gas milage, and the high oil temps. But I guess I am just getting out of the phase.

I just wanted to add that to anyone who thinks rotors don't warp, it's happened to me. Spirited driving on a country road, lots of braking, come around a turn and the fire department is flushing a hydrant onto the road. As soon as the water hit the brakes, they instantly warped!

See, I've literally never seen more than 220*F oil temps. Part of the reason I went with the 2012 was the oil cooler. I had no clue that the brakes would **** the bed every few thousand miles.

My brake-fluid is a bit dark, but not burn. Looks like 1000 mile old motor-oil on a new vehicle without blow-by issues.

To me, it's just about joy. This 370Z just gives me a headache every time I look at it. "What next?" "Is this **** fixed yet?" those are the kinds of things I think when I see it. **** that. I buy new cars as toys/luxury purchases. They aren't supposed to be a downer. This one is.

it doesn't matter how hot your engine oil has gotten. You can hard cycle the brakes a couple of times and park it and whala...warped rotors.

Here is a little tip I learnt when I first got my Z. I got it up to 140 on a back country straight line road, when coming to a panic stop it worked great the first time. After driving around for a couple of minutes with no brake use at about 45 I went back to the same road again. I got up to almost 145 and panic stopped again. When I hit about 50 it started to fade on me a little bit. It was that point in time that I was downshifting and blew through a couple of stop signs. My point is this, when you notice that brake fade coming in, that is your WARNING that any more braking after this is the point in which you are going to be depositing brake material onto the rotor and it will cause glazing and/or warping.

I drove the car for about 30 minutes with no braking at 75mph. Since I didn't park the brakes with the brakes that hot or near so, I haven't had any problems with warping or anything of that nature.

Only had two cars that would fade on the first stop. A 1995 Trans AM. It went 170K miles on stock rotors. A 1988 mustang GT. I replaced the rotors once just because I wanted to when I was doing the build, and never again.

My 2001 WS6 would have brake-fade after the first few stops from 80 or so.
It warped the rotors once at around 80K miles, and never again during my ownership (sold at 150K miles).

My 370Z has dicked up the rotors and/or pads 4 times in 22,000 miles, but never any brake fade. Just flat-out suck with no warning.

The more and more I read about the BRZ, the more and more I feel like an STi version would be THE car for me. I don't care so much about power, but 20-30whp more than the "regular" BRZ would make it nicer. Think S2000. Everything I read leads me to think the BRZ is like a Corvette...if it were lighter and had better communication with the driver, and less power/grip so you could play more with it on the street. In a 'vette, if you are going fast enough to actually have fun on the street, you're being totally irresponsible and stupid. My a 370Z and "slower", you can have quite a bit of fun without risking any more than your own hide and some scratches on a guard-rail unless you're an idiot. That's what I like. Having a car I can push a bit on the street without acting a total fool. Mind you not in town redlight to redlight, but rather, lazy afternoon drives down a country road.