Hi Dustin :hello:It was great meeting you. It's a shame my little guy was afraid of sitting in the race car, thanks to you and the team for the offers.

I'm still working on the photos from the weekend. I'll send you a PM with a link to the photos for you and the team to look through when I'm done.

subd

bump, does spl or whiteline have any pushings out yet for our car? except spl's front inner control arm, knuckle ball, and subframe ones.

I'd like to see spl front control arms!

Here's a pic of the one's that were being tested on the #51 World Challenge Z.
Attachment 54887

what about them bushings, i believe mine are wearing out :|

That would probably be around $700 if there was one available. There is one for the 350Z for that exact price.

interesting! i thought they would have a design similar to the 350z front arm using the shim system

:icon23:

Ok I'm confused. Spoon asked about traction links (arm that runs from the front of the car to the rear per say). You seem to be talking about toe links which replace the aluminium arm that holds the rear spring. Or am I missing something? Before I found this in a search I thought toe was adjusted by the eccentric bolt in the mid link arm or the traction arm if you bought an adjustable one. I guess I'm wrong. Unless I spend $728 on the spl mid link or buy true coils and then buy the spl toe arms, at the moment I have zero way to adjust rear toe because I installed a lockout bolt.

Bump.

Mine are installed. I've adjusted some for toe. Till I get on an alignment machine, I don't think I'm adjusting toe correctly. But I'm not worried about toe. I want to know what I spent $300 for? Anyone learn something about these?

You will not need to adjust toe with these. Keep them as close to stock length as possiable and equal on both sides. These traction arms just help maintain stability under load of the suspension to aid in keeping the toe at postion. Then the fact of you removed another OEM rubber bushing. They also can help with bump steer.

A suspension is like aero dynamics. It works better when all parts come together.

I adjusted one side and it did have crazy bump steer. Now they're both OEM length and equal. But the issue I have now is the drivers tire is like 2.5" away from the rear bumper while the passengers is like 3".

I wouldn't use the rear bumper for measurement. As long as there equal length from side to side and the alignment is good. Your good.

You mean wouldn't use it?

I just spent an hour redoing everything. Made sure each traction arm is 10 5/8 like OEM center hole to center hole, flipped my lockout plates and ground down one side since the top to bottoms where longer than the side to sides, so now the plates are 0.13" shorter on one side than the other, and had to redo camber because of the plates changing toe.

Now I'm -1.7 degrees each side and 0.25" toe in. Toe is still out of spec but its better than 0.69" toe in then when I started. I think I need to make new plates. I can't grind down the one side anymore because then it will be to short and will flop in between the slots in the subframe. If you look at this pic of where a guy made new plates, my holes are in between the centered holes and where his are. So with new plates and moving the hole more to one side like his, I'm sure I can get another 0.125" each side.

However tires to bumper I'm still 2.5" drivers side and 3" passenger.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psdec2770b.jpg