SPL Traction Arms, any experience or knowledge
Basically as the the title states. Looking to buy and want to get the best suspension handling out of my car. So has anyone had experience or know how to get the most out of these?
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I have a set but haven't installed yet. I do have other SPL pieces installed. Very nice stuff. Allows for easy alignment. I personally believe other two arms are more critical. Especially for us guys running true coil overs in the rear. Nice clean way to delete that ugly stock arm with spring holder.
Benefits of adjustable traction bar? I'm still figuring that out. Trying to think what it will do? Guess it would impact toe and maybe caster? Not sure. I went more for the solid bushings and high quality design. Won't know how it impacts alignment until I have it on the car and start dinking |
You should be able to limit the toe change during travel by measuring toe at different levels of travel and adjusting the length of the traction arm so that you can keep the change as small as possible. I don't think it's possible to eliminate toe change completely, but you could get it pretty close. Since your car is lower the stock length may or may not be ideal... this will give you the ability to fine tune it.
Since they have rod ends I'd also look at getting some good rod-end seals (not sure what they come with) or some rod-end boots to keep them greased nicely and as quiet as possible. |
But like Grant mentioned the solid bushings are going to make the biggest difference over stock.
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After spending 10 minutes on the phone with SPL the other day the best answer given was your deleting the mushy bushing that induces some bumpsteer to a solid machined bushing that helps reduce this action. Which I'm thinking of ordering there hole bushing replacement kit. Costly but I feel it's worth it.
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I just wish SPL would do a front arm! please please pretty please! Eventually all bushings On my car will be replaced with spl parts. It's about half the cost of my Boxster monoball conversion too! |
Where did you get these parts?
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http://www.the370z.com/suspension-br...ments-now.html |
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Just to be 100% completely clear...Doran Racing DOES NOT run SPL front control arms.
When we first got the car we had a conversation with them and received their parts... after seeing them and talkin with Grand Am we decided to go another direction and make our own parts. At Barber Motorsports park we ran Hotchkis front and rear sway bars.... After running he car for the first time.... we designed our own sway bars as well. The Hotchkis sways are a great product ... we were in need of a much higher range with adjustability..... Again.... We do not run SPL front control arms. Dwnshift |
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...cbc25523_z.jpg IMG_6508 by J M Gale, on Flickr http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8008/7...9efd7581_z.jpg IMG_6506 by J M Gale, on Flickr They were good guys to talk to. I got a crap ton of pictures of their cars :tup: |
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Galeforce,
Great meeting you and your family this past weekend! I hate that your son didnt like sitting in the car. That would have been an awesome pic. You are correct, SFR Enterprises is sponsored by SPL Parts Pro (Sean Farrah). Also to be clear, we are a SPL Dealer as well. I do not think we have the SPL 370Z components listed on our site YET...I will need to double check. Otherwise we can also obtain any of their parts as well. |
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I'm still working on the photos from the weekend. I'll send you a PM with a link to the photos for you and the team to look through when I'm done. |
subd
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bump, does spl or whiteline have any pushings out yet for our car? except spl's front inner control arm, knuckle ball, and subframe ones.
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I'd like to see spl front control arms!
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Attachment 54887 |
what about them bushings, i believe mine are wearing out :|
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Bump.
Mine are installed. I've adjusted some for toe. Till I get on an alignment machine, I don't think I'm adjusting toe correctly. But I'm not worried about toe. I want to know what I spent $300 for? Anyone learn something about these? |
You will not need to adjust toe with these. Keep them as close to stock length as possiable and equal on both sides. These traction arms just help maintain stability under load of the suspension to aid in keeping the toe at postion. Then the fact of you removed another OEM rubber bushing. They also can help with bump steer.
A suspension is like aero dynamics. It works better when all parts come together. |
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I wouldn't use the rear bumper for measurement. As long as there equal length from side to side and the alignment is good. Your good.
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I just spent an hour redoing everything. Made sure each traction arm is 10 5/8 like OEM center hole to center hole, flipped my lockout plates and ground down one side since the top to bottoms where longer than the side to sides, so now the plates are 0.13" shorter on one side than the other, and had to redo camber because of the plates changing toe. Now I'm -1.7 degrees each side and 0.25" toe in. Toe is still out of spec but its better than 0.69" toe in then when I started. I think I need to make new plates. I can't grind down the one side anymore because then it will be to short and will flop in between the slots in the subframe. If you look at this pic of where a guy made new plates, my holes are in between the centered holes and where his are. So with new plates and moving the hole more to one side like his, I'm sure I can get another 0.125" each side. However tires to bumper I'm still 2.5" drivers side and 3" passenger. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psdec2770b.jpg |
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Seems even with the winter wheels.
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Then your fenders shouldn't be used as a gauge. |
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So question is, will these parts work in a stock suspension? or is it not worth buying unless you add other components to the mix.
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It's one of those things that's really the last piece of the puzzle. Do it last after you have done the bigger suspension mods from spl
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