A bunch of breaks/suspension questions!
 

1. Are camber kits always necessary if I decide to go on springs (H&R)? After reading the forum, it seems like the rear is what is required if I do need to get a camber kit?

2. Rotors, whats the difference between slotted and cross drilled? Which one is better for daily driving?

3. How much of a difference does the Stillen or Hotchkis sway bars make in comparison to stock? Would you recommend it?

:tiphat::driving:

1. Camber kit will be necessary for the rear if you get H&R springs.

2. Slotted Rotor Attributes:

- The slots on the rotor helps clean the brake pad, which improves bite.
- The slots on the rotor will slice the brake pad allowing the pad to bite harder into the disc causing an increase in disc temperatures. This will bring your brakes up to temperature faster , but might also take you too far decreasing the benefit. The slotted rotor coupled with a race pad which need to be heated would be optimum.
- Slotted rotors will also cause slightly more brake pad wear and tear giving you less miles on a pad before it needs to be replaced. Shorter maintenance schedule.
- Slotted rotors allow gas to ventilate during brake fade.
- Slotted rotors are less prone to cracking then the cross drilled rotor.
- Slotted rotors weigh more.
- Slotted rotors have more disc surface.
- Slotted rotors maintain around 96% of the friction surface

Drilled Rotor Attributes:

- Drilled Rotors offer an enhanced initial bite.
- Drilled Rotors perform better in wet weather over the slotted rotor. Due to volume of a hole vs a slot.
- Drilled Rotors are more prone to cracking than slotted.
- Drilled Rotors allow gas to ventilate during brake fade.
- Drilled Rotors offer a performance benefit since there lighter in weight.
- Drilled Rotors have more ventilation so they should cool off faster , but have less rotor material so they could get hotter than a slotted rotor. But its hard to say as the slotting also increases heat.
- Drilled rotors maintain around 85-93% of the friction surface

However, your stock brakes are fine for DD.

3. Sway bars make a noticable difference, most people I think would recommend stillen for DD.

First of all, thanks for the answer!

I'm still undecided after reading about the rotors. I'm planning on upgrading to a BBK kit and I have an option to chose any of them. I think the cross drilled ones look the best but under what conditions will they crack? If I'm never tracking the car, will it make a difference?

i wouldn't worry about it if you're never tracking the car. Most of the difference only become apparent if youre on the track. For everyday driving you'll be fine regardless

Don't forget that cross drilled rotors develop minor surface cracks. Quickly. So since you're just buying this kit for looks... Expect to be replacing your rotors every month unless you like this look:

http://www.pbase.com/nogaroblue/image/41363439.jpg

The rotor in that pic is still safe and has plenty of life, but it doesn't look too pretty anymore.

OP: I wouldn't waste your money on a BBK for the street. The extra unsprung weight and rotational mass isn't worth it. Instead, you can upgrade the tires and get some nice OEM sized slotted rotors. and good street pads. Throw in some stainless steel lines and nice fluid (ATE Super Blue or Motul fluid are great). Your brakes are only as good as your tires, and a BBK only shows any advantage once things get hot. There's very little chance you're going to be getting your brakes hot enough to need a BBK on the street unless you're an idiot or there's something wrong with your car.

:iagree: Good point!

Here's a good thread on sway bars you should read if you haven't already. It was just a few posts down.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...-hotchkis.html

Not that i am doubting you, vivid racing, (theres a reason why not many people have drilled rotors) but is this a common problem for GT-R owners too?

Their stock brake setup is this:

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/attac...tr_r35_015.jpg

If they track it yes

So drilled rotors normally do not crack unless you are tracking it?

Basically correct. The cracks occur from the expansion and contraction of the rotor. Unless well cooled just about every rotor eventually cracks eventually under track conditions, even blank faced ones. The drilled rotors crack a little more quickly because the area around the holes is a weak spot, and the heat fatigue is particularly bad around the center of the rotor face.

Driving on the street you will probably never see cracked rotors even with drilled ones. Maybe if you did a lot of hardcore canyon carving that was able to heat the rotors to track temperatures, but it would have to be hard and frequent.