how to raise the rear of my megan coilovers....

RedBullRR · 05-04-2011, 11:41 AM

I'm not sure I understand why you did that.

simota1 · 05-04-2011, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedBullRR

I'm not sure I understand why you did that.

the reason why i did that was because for some weird reason with the megans rear part of there kit for the not true type coilover system..... the adjustable part is to short

so even when you max it out to its highest adjustment... its still slammed as hell in the rear.... while in the front part of the car you can raise it sky high.... to give you guys an idea... my side skirt was about 2 3/4 above the ground in the rear....keep in mind that is the highest it will go.... and my front is about 4 1/2 i know the right thing to do was slam the front but i would be at the same place i was when i had my springs... i could only go from my house to work... no where else... which sucked....

here is what i meant about the max height of the rear for the megans.....

i used phimosis car as reference.... for the rear section if you look at the adjustment his own is maxed out also but if you look at his car in the first pic... its still slammed as hell in the rear.... my car ended up looking like it was launching while it was parked or how i described it to all my friends it looks like its taking a crap....

simota1 · 05-04-2011, 04:22 PM

he also wrote about it on his review that the rears maxed out was still really low...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phimosis

Hi again everyone. I have been to busy to follow the forums.

I have 7,000 miles on my Megan coilovers and haven't had any problems. I've done a few road trips and had to adjust the shocks to softer settings because when I have them at 9 from firmest, it is too harsh for long trips and gives me a headache. Overall, They are great. the spring rates and dampening are pretty much perfect.

The only problems I have with the setup are 1) the rear springs at the highest setting still lower my car by 1.25 inches and 2) nissan didn't design the car to go that low. By the time you get the car low enough that the tire is into the fender well, but still able to see the tire tread, it scrapes on everything.

so on issue #1, I had to match my fronts at 1.25" lower than stock. The fronts can go higher than that, but not the rears. The car looks great at this height, but it scrapes on everything and I would like to go higher. The front cradle and underbody skid panel touch down on hard bumps. On the I405 in San Fernando valley the concrete slab pavement has terrible expansion joints and some of them will cause the cradle to touch down at 70mph. My Stillen exhaust tips touch down on the inclined driveway at my work, so I rarely drive it to work. I would much rather be 1.00" lower than stock.

on issue #2, it ties into issue 1..... Megan needed to make the rears so they will go higher, but Nissan didn't design the fender position quite right. By the time the car has the sporty appearance of the tires just tucked into the fender wells, everything on the car is touching down on the pavement: front cradle on big bumps/potholes, underbody exhaust on the smallest of speedbumps, exhaust tips on inclined driveways, front tires hit the fender liners under heavy cornering loads when you hit mid corner bumps. Its pretty messy. My last car was a C6 Corvette and the suspension is adjustable from the factory. At the lowest setting the tires were tucked into the fender well very nicely, but didn't hit the fender liner. The front airsplitter would scrape, but it is soft and designed to fold under without damage, as opposed to the riveted nisssan one that I've broken twice now. The Borla exhaust I had on the Corvette never touched the pavement. The exhaust under the car would only srcape on pretty good sized speed bumps.... The 370z just wasn't desinged to go low enough to go racing. The Corvette is.

simota1 · 05-04-2011, 04:27 PM

i hope that explains the reason why i added the rubber part....

so now.....i can actually use the adjustment part.... and make it lower.... and higher.... not just.... slammed in the rear no adjustment because maxed out height is still slammed as hell......

05-04-2011, 11:41 AM	#1 (permalink)
RedBullRR Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 336 Drives: 2010 370Z Red Rep Power: 16	I'm not sure I understand why you did that. __________________ 2010 Solid Red Z: Mods: Stillen G3 Intakes \| BC Coilovers \| H&R 20/25 Spacers \| Stillen Splitter \| Stillen LW Pullie TBI \| Red GTR Start \| LED Interior \| Kenwood Double Din

05-04-2011, 04:27 PM	#4 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 407	i hope that explains the reason why i added the rubber part.... so now.....i can actually use the adjustment part.... and make it lower.... and higher.... not just.... slammed in the rear no adjustment because maxed out height is still slammed as hell...... __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

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