Haha my bad, I think it all started when I messed up quoting you in previous messages and it came through all retarded.

[QUOTE=ZMan8;2246987]From my understanding, doesn't toe affect tire life even more so than camber? So wouldn't it make more sense for them to work more on getting toe into spec than camber?

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Yes toe will eat your tires worse than camber as a GEneral rule

Then shouldnt the alignment guy focus on getting toe closer to zero rather than maxing out my rear camber adjustment trying to get it as close to spec as possible?

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I think your toe was in spec though so I wouldn't worry that it's not exactly 0.

I would not sacrifice toe for camber. Other way around, yes. I left my camber at -2.8 until I could adjust toe and camber together.... Now I'm -1.2 and 0 degrees toe.

Seriously, the cost of the toe bolts and camber arms is very reasonable and is a definite improvement over stock adjustability. Don't sweat the small details.... this is a small detail.

Why is the spec a minimum of 2 inches in front and minimum of 4 in the rear if 0 is the best? Is Nissan promoting premature wear of tires so you come in and pay them for tire service lol?

The specs for rear toe have performance advantages. I'm pretty sure most rwd cars run some toe from the factory

So 7 in. of toe is more performance oriented than 0?

I'm assuming you're trying to say 0.7 or 0.07?

Anyway, toe in the rear helps stabilize the rear end at speed, making it more driver friendly to low skill drivers (most 370z owners, though likely not most people on this forum necessarily).

Also, and on this point I am not 100% clear as to how it relates to our rear suspension specifically, but in most independent setups, toe is added or removed under compression.

For example, in the front, toe is added on compression, so it is common for "racers" to spec toe out on the front so that under braking into corner entry, your wheels are as straight as possible.

I think the inverse may be true in the rear. That is to say, under compression (acceleration) toe is removed (meaning toe OUT is added). If this is the case, Nissan would spec toe IN because it would serve twofold

1. Add stability when cruising at speed
2. Straighten the drive wheels out under hard acceleration.

Again, I could be wrong on that second part, but for sure, it adds stability at speed that isn't necessary for a skilled driver on a race track.

EDIT: I will say for completeness sake, it also helps with bump-steer in the rear, as it tries to push the wheel towards the car's center of gravity when one or both wheels are "upset". Another thing a "racer" will want to fine tune for themselves to suit their driving style.

Yes the rear toe is in so that during hard acceleration wheels are straight.

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Yeah, I was pretty sure on this point, but I hate to mislead anyone if I'm wrong.

I also would like to go on record and say I'm tired of shops in America insisting upon giving toe specs in INCHES of toe, since that measurement can vary wildly depending on the overall diameter of the wheel currently mounted on the vehicle.

Let's just do degrees of toe, those never change, no matter how you measure it.

<3

So the shop removed the spring and lubed up the insulator hoping to stop the creaking and so far its much better, I can still hear a "click" whenever going up driveways slowly, but that's it and it's better than the "creaking" I was getting before. As long as it doesn't get worse than the "click" I'll be fine with that and live with it.

Got mine installed today and I've got a popping sound from the front. Mostly when i'm going over bumps slowly, no noise when i'm at speed.

Hmm mine were more like creaking and clicking, now it just makes one slight click when i got over driveways slowly. did ur installer put the oem insulators at the bottom of the springs? if not thats more than likely your issue.