And you're supporting a ZdayZ sponsor! :)

Just got my front and rear brake pads replaced with OEM brake pads and the rotors resurfaced at the dealership. I'm having significant brake squeal from only the rears. Went back to the dealership to see if everything was put on right. They lubricated the calipers and the backing plate of the brake pad. The noise went away for 2 days and its back. I was thinking about getting the rotors replaced and getting some Wagner Thermo quiet brake pads (I'm on a low budget and can't bust out $$$ on some higher quality pads) to see if this resolves the issue. Do y'all have any suggestions on this?

Used Hawk hp+ pads on the track and for AutoX so far. I have rbf600 fluid and z1 SS lines. They worked great for AutoX and only had slight fade at the end of the day on the track. It was my first track day but after 5 really hard sessions they still had plenty of life left. This season I've added z1 slotted two piece front rotors and stillen brake ducting so I hope to see big improvements on braking consistency. My stock rotors may have been scored and very slightly warped due to the track session but they don't feel terrible. Just wouldn't want to risk it on another track day. I'll definitely report back once I try the new setup!

It's been my experience that your first several track days are the worst ones on brakes, and then the abuse you're putting into the brake system slowly goes down over time, as you learn to brake harder over shorter lengths. Early on you're dragging out your braking - starting too early and not hitting them hard enough either. Either way you might still have a total braking speed reduction from say 90mph to 40mph, but the less distance you take to get it done, the less excess heat you build up.

I guess the very very first track days might be a little easier on them because you're not carrying as much speed to shed in the first place, so maybe it's more like a curve that spikes up quickly at the beginning and then slowly tapers off over time.

Good to know wstar! I'm hoping the brake ducting will help alleviate some of the abuse on them. I know it's inevitable though.

Anyone have any experience with EBC Bluestuff pads? I've seen talk on the yellowstuff but according to the ebc website our car wieght recommend the bluestuff.

Can vouch for Endless MX72's. For a track car used as a daily driver I can not see how anyone could make a better pad. Smooth and linear with 0 fade at the track. Absolutely no noise on the street, with normal amount of dust.

Would not recommend them for auto X-they are not a bitey pad, but display a ton of smooth stopping control/trail braking feel.

You get what you pay for with brake pads. There is a big difference between a 50.00 and a 200.00 pad.

Agreed on all accounts ... but to clarify the dust: The MX72s do dust noticeably more than the oem sport pads, especially if your using them like they are designed to be :driving:

Think the best/cheapest place to get them at the moment is Forged actually (largely due to their free shipping on anything over 99 bucks), I have a rear pair on order from them right now.

Looks like I'm shopping for some XP8's for the fronts here before I take a journey up to ZDayZ. I have Z1 slotted rotors ~5k on them now, but the stock pads at ~53k+ and I don't have a clue how much life is left in them but it can't be much.

I wonder how the XP8's will be cold. Their site listed their range from 200-1250*

They're not horrible cold. Maybe not optimal, but not dangerous either.

Guy at work runs EBC red in auto-x and on the street, he had one pad bonding seperate but he called EBC and they replaced it pronto. I just swapped a whole set of EBC red on the car yesterday with new stoptech rotors in the rear, I have Z1 2 piece in the front with about 500 miles on them, I was starting to get a slight pulsation last week on the stock pads...it is minor, I was hoping it was the junk OE pads, but no, of course it is not. I emailed Z1 to see if these rotors are able to be turned, they are not as thick as OE so I am hesitant to turn them, I am obvious in break-in mode on the pads, but it is a world of difference so far, the bite is 10x better than OE and they feel so much better, still had plenty of meat on the OE pads at 27k, I would say still a good 6-7/32nds. I will check back in after the pads are fully bedded.

Anyone looking at serious track pads should look at the CL Brakes RC6's or RC5+'s for a bit more conservative use.

Everyone uses the Carbotech pads as the 'Go to' track pad, but these CL pads are top notch and much more widely used, from an international point of view.

Im running RE11s on 18 inch square fit (275s) for the track and PSS on 19 OEM Rays for the street
I also run Sport the setup calipers with RBF600 and Z1 2 piece rotors
Z1 2 Piece Akebono Front Rotors

I also run Stillen (OEM fascia) brake cooling ducts.

I've tried several sets of pads:
OEM (of course)
Pros: no dust, no noise, came preinstalled
Cons: huge fade in road course after 5-10 minutes of driving.

Hawk street pads
Pros: Not too dusty, good initial grip at track when cool, only occasional squeel
Cons: noticible road course fade with 20 minute session

Hawk ceramics (I dd these still in winter)
Pros: No dust, no sequel, good cold weather performance
Cons: very noticeable road course fade at high temps (do not track these... I tried)

Hawk HPS+ (I run these on track and in summer DD. I "DD brake" carefully so as to not eat my rotors)
Pros:awesome track performance when warm. Good initial grip/no fade (in my use/setup)
Cons: TONS of dust (seriously bad), squeak at every stop, very grabby for DD they need to be warmed up a bit before you can really trust them for an aggressive stop.