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So let's say i want a good quality fluid, for a car i appreciate the brakes on, occasional hard drive, possibility of a track visit once a year.
Trying not to spend a bunch of cash, but don't want regular stuff either... |
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I would have classed motul600 into a more expensive category than most brake fluids (not including race stuff) Can i assume that below there, they're all the same?
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Yes, money out of pocket, performance, using for what we all do here (don't see to many pros here in PWC or conti series) it is. A 20 min session for us isn't going to show a performance gain getting fluid that's a few degrees better. I get what you're saying though. |
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In alphabetical order: AP Racing, Brembo, EBC Brakes, Elf/Total, Eneos, Ferodo, Gulf, Millers Oil, Pagid, Pentosin, PFC, Silkolene, StopTech, Tarox, Tilton, Wilwood Just look at the specs to see which one is the match for the 600 (too detailed to type it all here). These are not all of them, just what I have had verified since about 9 months ago. Most of these brands also have versions that match up with the 660. Chris |
For me. Motul 600 is easy and cheap to get at the motorcyle shop. :D
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I'm as adverse to throwing my money away as the next guy, but IMO the price differences being discussed here are negligible considering how much brake fluid is used and how often. Less than $100 over the course of a year between the cheapest and most expensive fluid? Yeah, IDGAF. That's like using regular instead of premium gas because of the cost savings.
Like Rusty mentioned, Motul isn't expensive, and I can find it locally at the motorcycle dealer anytime I need it. I used Superblue for the convenience of the color when flushing brake fluid, but it has been outlawed because the color blue is toxic according to DoT :icon14: I don't bother with the racing stuff because it's just unnecessary for me. If I tracked or auto-x at all I would be using it because the cost difference isn't significant enough to care. |
So what are you using now then?
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Running ATE blue in mine currently, but something isn't right, there is the slightest hint of needing to pump the pedal just before every use.
It's hardly noticeable if i don't do that, but if i do tap it first, i'll get a marginally higher pedal on the second push. What's the standard size Motul 600? 500ml? |
For a complete flush. You will need 2 bottles.
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Bottle isn't a size, so i'm guessing you mean i litre of fluid for a flush?
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Remember MadMaxx what your are experiencing is fairly normal. After a little brake use, you are experiencing what is called pad kickback. As you start to corner there is a little slop in the hub bearings and the rotor flexes just slightly in the hub and pushes back the pads a little. With more use this push back becomes slightly more pronounced and thus the pedal travel seems to get a little longer. Most racers have a technique which before reaching their braking point, they tap the pedal to get rid of this excess pad spacing so that when they do apply the brakes as needed, they will have a hard pedal starting and not have to pump them during the braking to get the pedal and brake pressure up hard. It also tells them if their brakes are ready to work before they really need them. Some of the newer computer controlled brake systems today now can prime the brake system if it anticipates a possible collision situation to make the brakes react even faster when applied. Unless your pads are really worn or you've got air in the system, I wouldn't worry about it.
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