To further highlight how confusing the DOT standards are, DOT 5 and DOT 5.1 are completely incompatible.

DOT 5 = silicone (should really never be used in a car)
DOT 5.1 = borate ester-based (standard brake fluid). Much like DOT 4, but with a lower viscosity rating.

Chris

Baxter you know i don't speak spanish

Hey Mike, is this what you are talking about for Valvoline Synthetic? Valvoline/32 oz. DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid 601458 - Read 1 Reviews on Valvoline #601458

So dumb question. I have a 10 370Z base model. Is the stock brake fluid DOT3 or DOT4? I'll probably be changing my brakes/rotors and figured I'd have Nissan flush the brake fluid also. I've read the posts within this thread and I'm still between 5.1 or 600 for brake fluid. If stock is DOT3 then I'm leaning more toward 5.1. If stock is DOT4 then I'll go 600. I just don't want any issues later on down the road. I don't track my car at all and don't plan on it. And honestly I drive like a grandma lol. Also if stock is DOT3 would switching to 600 cause any issues? I've been reading how 600 could possibly cause an issue with the ABS system.

OEM fluid is DOT 3. But you still want the Motul RBF600 :twocents:

i use valvoline dot3/4

Thanks. One more dumb question. If I replace the rotors/pads and fluid, should I go ahead and replace the brake lines/hoses too?

Not necessarily, but if you're spending money, you might as well. You'll need to bleed the brakes when you install new brake lines, so you want to time it with a brake flush. I did my rotors and pads early on, but I didn't install SS lines until several years later.

No votes for ATE Type 200? I've used it in a 2004 Ford Mustang Cobra, '06 Hyundai Sonata, '08 F350, '06 F250, '07 Ducati 1098, '00 GSXR-750, '09 R1, '05 GSXR-750 and now the '10 Z Sport all with great success regarding fade and immediate increased firmness in the brake pedal/level in all application.

Fwiw, I've used RBF 600 in the past and it required frequent bleeds in motorcycles to keep the master cylinder lever consistently firm. In a '05 GSXR-750 with '07 Yamaha R1 master cylinder (Brembo) I had to get a remote handle adjuster as the MC level would get soft during track day sessions (i.e. Fluid getting overheated). Not to mention the RBF600 bottles says to remove and replace it's fluid in your brake system yearly as it absorbs a ton of moisture. I've never had to do that with the ATE fluid.

Hey people,

Amazon sent me RBF660 instead of 600 and I'm confused if I should use it. Do our cars like this fluid?

Shouldn't be an issue. That's what I just put in my clutch. It's a higher temperature fluid.

RBF660 is more expensive with higher dry boiling point than RBF600. Consider it a win :driving:

The 660 has higher dry boil point but lower wet boil point. I use the 600 since I only service the brake fluid on pad changes. Figure at least 2/3 of the life is in the wet range.

Mixed opinions on the 660 I see :ugh2: I'd be putting it both in brakes and clutch too, since it's time for HD CSC replacement :yum:

Unless you're repeatedly threshold braking (you better be on a closed course), you won't notice the difference between the two. Braking performance at the end of the fluid life will be lower with the RBF660 fluid compared to RBF600 due to the lower wet boiling point. Even so, you shouldn't be close to boiling either fluid on the street.