I've used it, and it is a good step up from stock (also the ATE Type 200 Gold). The main benefit is being able to see the fluid change color when bleeding. It is good value for money as well.

I had to step up to Motul 600/ AP 600 when the caliper temperatures starting getting to 500F.

I just completed a brake line swap and switched to ATE super blue. I would agree with ChrisSlickX and say that it is good value. 1L bottle for $12.99
Used just under 1L to complete the swap and bleed the lines. (Encountered a few air bubbles on the inside chamber in the rear right caliper
The SS brake lines are a huge improvement of the OEM brake lines. Certainly look at this if you are going to change the fluid anyways.

Thought I'd throw my experience with AP Racing Brake fluid. May go by a differnt name now but when I put it in my Vette back in 1994 it was not DOT. Ran it for a couple of years including some track days and performed great. Car turned into a garage queen in 1997 and just sold it before picking up the Z a couple of weeks ago. Break fluid was still good in 2011. Only thing to be careful of was don't open the cap on your reservoir when the humidity is high. You can actually see the surface gurgling and sucking up moisture... Moisture = bad I'd say that 18 years service out of it was pretty good. Probably only 30-40k miles total though. Everyone was using the Motul 600 back then and it was great stuff too.

So it looks like either the AP and/or the racing blue is a sensible bet for the road and very occasional track use.

Question is though, if you want a matching pad that produces little dust, what's good to go with it?

Sport package gravity bleed... When do you know (say you're bleeding the front 2 calipers at the same time) when the old fluid has been bled all out and to close the nipples on the calipers?

Gravity bleed is a bad idea on a modern car with ABS. If air gets into the ABS module it can be a bear to bleed later. Pressure bleed only either using the pedal or a power bleeder.

Also, don't do two calipers at the same time! :(

If your'e not sure when the new fluid has come through, it would be best for you to use AP racing blue, then you can see the colour change.

What side of the caliper do you bleed first if it's dry on the sport brakes?

Outside.

thanks, i'm getting ready to replace my calipers thanks to Z1, and my struts and springs with Nismo struts and springs thanks to harman.khinda

also, when bleeding brakes i will replace the fluid, i don't need to do anything special for the ABS? just bleed thru the calipers correctly and the whole system will be flushed?

Try to keep fluid loss to a minimum to prevent air entering the system. Do one caliper at a time, connect the new brake hose to the new caliper and mount it in position with the old caliper still attached to it's brake line but caliper hanging free. When you're ready just make the switch of lines at the firewall brake hose to line connection.

Roughly follow my DIY, just leave out the AP Racing parts.
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...g-install.html

oh ok! that's very helpful, i search the DIY brake installs and did not come across this.
good think you replied to my question!
i ordered the infinity calipers because i want to powder coat them so i will post pics when i'm done, hopefully by next week. thanks again.

I've used ATE Super Blue on my 240sx for lots of autocross and occasional track duty. I was very impressed with it and it's pretty inexpensive compared to other similar fluids.

yuck

lest say i go with motul 600... do i need to flush the clutch system as well and put motul 600 too?. i think ive heard that im some cars you need to change both at the same time. apparently in the lo.g run the mixture of fluids can mess up the slave cylinder on some cars. is this true om our cars?.