DOT4 and DOT3 are immiscible, so there is no problem using DOT4 on the track or on the street. It is a higher spec than DOT3 as it pertains to boiling points. Most racing fluid "conforms" to DOT4, although the best fluids are quite a bit better than the minimum specs call for.

Chris

If you guys are careful, you can bleed your brake system using a single quart of new fluid. Using the RBF600 and ATE SuperBlue alternating schedule, it's easy to know when you've adequately bled each caliper.

How often should you bleed the brakes if you run RBF600 on a mostly street driven Z?

Define mostly?

I bleed the brakes every 2 years on my street cars.

99% of the time just street driving, I would like to think someday I can go to a track for the first time haha. Thanks for the information, I am upgrading the fluid and pads for my base brakes since the stock pads and fluid cannot cope with any serious sustained braking, that's for sure.

If you are just driving on the street RBF600 is a waste of money. Given that it is recommended that you bleed the brakes directly before a track event, go with something a little more economical (but meets the DOT4 spec) until you hit the track.

For the Motul, I replaced mine on my other cars about every 6months. You should prob do it in smaller increments seeing as though it's a huge difference on the track everytime I flush the system.

Now I use Neo sythetic brake fluid, which lasts prob half as long, but I still replace every 6months. LOL.

I use AP Racing DOT 5.1. It is compatible with ABS, etc. Stillen sells it for about $14 a pint. Three pints are enough for flush and fill. The dry and wet boiling points are way higher than the stock DOT 3. I also changed the brake lines to Goodridge SS. That way the brake fluid will stay drier.

ss lines are to keep the brake pressures consistent, because the lines do not expand. It doesn't really have anything to do with brake fluid staying drier.

Pressure isn't lost with rubber lines, but fluid volume is. In other words, as I press the pedal and the rubber lines expand, more brake fluid must be provided by the master cylinder to keep filling the growing line volume. With SS lines, nearly zero growth means less pedal travel at the same pressure level as compared to OE lines.

OE rubber lines are the main pathway for moisture ingress in the brake system. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing brake fluid every two years. It's the moisture that lowers the boiling point and can eventually cause internal component corrosion. SS lines do not allow moisture through them, keeping the fluid "drier" -- or with a lower moisture content for a longer period of time.

great explanation as always:tup:

I've always used Motul RBF600 in all my vehicles from bikes to cars and love it! You can check it out HERE without spending an arm and a leg!

-Scott

If you are going to the track definitely use the endless rf-650 if not then i would just suggest motul because it is much more economical.

Thank you, Scott. I might pick this up soon. I need 3, right?

I would get 4, I learned that 2 was needed to flush the old stuff out & 2 were needed to fill it up. I have motul 600, and that with the goodridge brake lines I have noticed it is much much better than stock.