Titanium brake pad shield
 

I am going to be honest. I don’t know if it is a waste of time, but I just blew $200 on these shins. Let’s see if they will make the pads last longer and brake run cooler

$200?!!! the ****?

Are you tracking the car for lap times to the point where you need EVERY LAST BIT OF PERFORMANCE LIFE from your brakes?

I hope you already have brake ducts and 2 piece rotors

I wish I had enough disposable income to spend $200 on brake shims lol. I hope they work out

Taking one for the team. :tup:

The above mods will improve braking as well as SS lines, upgraded fluid and the master cylinder brace. I think I would do these before the shims.

Just my $0.02

Where did you get them? I've been looking for over a year. I thought hardbrake.com was the only place to get the Ti shims but they haven't been responding to any correspondence attempts.

Pretty sure he's done all the other brake upgrades already guys...

Cossie tracks his car.

I'm curious to hear how they work for you. I've heard Ti shims make a surprisingly noticeable difference in temps.

Well, obviously. What are you, poor? :rofl2:

I have all the brake cooling moods as listed above including the ti shims and my brake rotors are about 400* hot. I get way more life out of my pads than most but I'm also easy on my brakes.

I neglected my car for a few years for a variety of reason, so it's time to do a refresh on it to make it more track worthy again. To be honest, I am afraid it will become a money pit as I am also seeing other parts failing too (clutch and diff are probably next). I had the brake duct put in a year ago. I guess no matter how I look at it, it will still be cheaper than buying another car.

I will see if the shims help. I also have a set of new Cobalt Friction pads too.

How does Ti shims add life/reduce heat to brake pads and rotors?

I thought it's just a better heat barrier between the pad's backing plate and the brake pistons, purpose is to help alleviate/buy time before boiling brake fluid?

I have the cooling ducts with 2" hose. I switching to 3" hose this spring. Have RacingBrake 2 piece rotors. Switching from 660 to the Castrol brake fluid. Have the Ti shims. Pads are XP10/8 combo. Z1 master cylinder brace.

The Ti shims helps keep the heat away from the piston and seals. They do nothing in keeping the pads and rotors cooler. That's for the ducts and hose job. If you are a heavy braker. You need everything you can get. I've had my 'bono's hot enough to leak fluid out of the bleeders. :driving:

Mike actually got his 'bono's so hot. They changed color. :driving:

Where did you get them at?

Ti isn't cheap. Got $28,000 of it in my azz. Another another $5,000 in my left foot.

:iagree:

:driving:

Hard Brakes has them for $91.99 for .5mm shims and $133.39 for 1.0mm shims.

They been AWOL for a while. :confused:

https://hardbrakes.com/

Ebay. The hardbrake website doesn’t have the 370 ones and they don’t reply by email.

Hardbrake has them for the sport brake. 2 thickness. Listed under Nismo. Order them off the website.

https://hardbrakes.com/index.php?mai...roducts_id=106

:shakes head:

The hardbrake website hasn't worked for over a year. You can't select the thickness. So you can't add them to your cart.

The website is working. But you can't click on anything for the 370Z Nismo. :icon14: I can click on other cars and order the shims. But not for the Nismo. :(

A little wear

I am pleased someone called them "Shims", I always thought they were only fitted to avoid brake squeal. :argue:

I just picked up a set of Ti shims for the front brakes. Thanks for the heads up, Cossie :tiphat:

I must be having a bad search ebay kind-of-day, can you post a link?

Thanks.

When I purchased them, I'm pretty sure it said one set left, so I may have grabbed the last one for now.

Here is the link for the rear set. Same seller, so you could message them and ask.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Titanium-Br...4AAOSwb7RckC9y

I bought these before my last track day on 3/8. In preparation for that day I replaced my melted seals. By the time I was done with replacing them I was willing to try anything else to prevent them from melting again. I have not put the car up and swapped back to street pads, but when I do I will update this thread with what I find.

My setup: Z1 2 piece rotor, XP 12 pad, 2” brake ducting.

Would anyone be willing to post some measurements and a drawing of these?

Link already posted. Scroll up.

Thanks, but I was hoping for something with more of the dimensions. Are there non-titanium shims with this same shape? I've been looking but can't seem to find any

I believe when i ordered it, there were only 2 sets.

When I get to working on my car next week I can give you some measurements. They are the same shape as the entire back side of the pads.

JARblue, thanks for the link, here is the response I received;

We ran out of the front shims for Nissan 370Z, in both plain and notched, last week.

We have the plains on the next production run. The notched are on the production run after that.

Please keep an eye on our Ebay store. As soon as they come in, we will get them listed.

Wow I'm surprised I'm reading about shims etc. over retrofitted Corvette and AMG calipers that I see owners installing over on Facebook. Especially, if brakes are leaking out of bleeders and changing color.

He has some in stock if anyone is interested;

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We got a couple of the fronts finished.

Front Plain:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/233187328989

Front Notched:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/233187329664

Rear Plain:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/333122624316



Plain vs. Notched

We do notched and plain versions for pads which have metal wear feelers on the OEM and aftermarket replacement pads, but may not have wear feelers on racing pads. Metal wear feelers are pieces of flat metal, riveted to the back of the pad, and bet around to rub against the rotor and make an annoying squeal when the pad is worn out and should be replaced.

Many racing pads do not have wear feelers, either to save cost, or weight, or because racing vehicles are supposed to be obsessively maintained and the brakes are always looked at before and after each race, and sometimes during. Some of the racing pad companies like Hawk are inconsistent. Some of their street performance and even racing pads have wear feelers. This makes things more confusing.

We make our shims to cover the entire back of the pad in order to provide maximum shielding. The notched shims fit closely around the wear feelers and raised rivet heads of OEM pads. The plain shims cover the entire back of a racing pad, but do not clear the wear feelers and raised rivet heads.
The shim has to fit flat against the back of the pad, and will not bend or conform around anything in the way. Using a plain shim on a pad with wear feelers would not allow the brakes to disengage properly, as the corner of the shim is held away from the back of the pad. It will flex and will be damaged, but will not flatten against the pad. The brakes will not fully disengage and the pedal travel will be excessively long.

Please make sure to check your pads for which shim you need.


Bill Luton

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I haven’t taken a infrared temps with and without shims. But my heat shields have turned that pretty burnt Ti color, maybe that came from running out of pad at the track?!? Or me driving hard in the track. I mean I’ve come in after a session and the rotors are smoking. But the car never lost brakes or had fluid leaking out nipples.

Just ordered the fronts. Hope it helps with my fluid leak.I'm on the fence on the rears still. I've only gotten fluid leak on those once.

That's Facebook users for ya. It's all about it being Corvette or AMG calipers, not that they will work properly. Mainly mall crawlers that never see the track if I had to guess.

Do you have brake cooling ducts installed? If not, get'em.

Finally got around to swapping pads after my track day. I will start by saying weather was cool and rainy so temps probably didn't get near what a dry summer day would be and the shims back that up. Absolutely no color change and the dust boots are in perfect condition.