Track Pad material help?!
 

Hello all,

Looking to see what i can do to solve my rotor-temp issues.

I run Carbotech XP8 pads on all 4 corners of my 370z when @ the track.
My tires are R888R track compounds.

With the XP8, i can engage ABS at the bottom of the pedal. Also my rotor temperatures after a cool-down lap are about 700F.

Question
Would an upgrade to XP10 compound (higher temp) assist with LESS heat into the system over time?
- OR: would the higher temp compound create more peak heat thereby raising the average rotor temp?

:tiphat:

Couple of things.

You need more brake cooling. Bigger hoses, run a couple of hoses.

With the higher temps. You need pads that operate at those temps.

What Rusty said ............

Is all about cooling ......... if you need to consider 3" cooling hoses fed from the front of the car. If you already have that, then look to fit a pair of 3" hoses

So far I have been good with the Stillen brake duct system with xp10s up front and titanium braking plates. I'm considering a bigger hose as my speed is increasing with experience.

Pad material really won't make a difference for your case in how hot your rotors get. The more time you're on the gas, the faster you go, the hotter the brakes get. Two piece rotors are great because they are lighter (less mass) but cause higher temps because change in Temp=Energy/Mass. But generally lighter rotors are are better because you can always increase cooling to offset the heating effect as Rusty said above.

But if your rotors are surviving and your not getting fade I don't see an issue. But I and a number of others run XP10F and XP8R or even 12/10.

Well I’m only group b (and just recently) with a 2013 so no stillen brake duct option. I use xp10/xp8 with zero brake issues (again still new) and also I’ve only been to leguna so mild weather vs buttonwillow or thunder hill but my last track day I had a really awesome instructor (raced formula fords and other stuff through his career) who had me focus much more on braking and smoother braking. I could see after my runs the brakes were not nearly as hot as my track day before but I’m still frustrated with the Harry’s app so I can’t say what was truly faster.

Getting Harry's set up was the worst experience in the world. I switched to RaceChrono and haven't looked back.

Is this a new app? I have an event coming up march 3 and really want to get this whole damn gopro, kiwi, timer overlay thing working for once.

I used it all last season of autoX. This is conjunction with a obdlink lx, gopro3 silver and a dual gps puck. The gropro is mic'd to my exhaust.

Here's with the stock overlay:

https://youtu.be/mXkn6fDdwJQ

Keep in mind the OBD bus on the e36 is slow, i think it's 5hz so the return can be laggy on the numbers.

Cool I will give it a go. Cheaper the Harry’s too even though I already have Harry’s. Will phone gps work?

I'm sure it will, I already had the GPS puck so there was no use not to use it :)

This guy knows his stuff. I've been scared straight on track runs with him. :rofl2:

I'm doing 10/8's with brake duct cooling on stock discs and its a a world of difference in confidence that my brakes will last a 30 minute session. I'd recommend a 12/10 only if you're running a really aggressive tire. If you get too aggressive on pads and not enough tire, you risk your abs going into ice mode.

:iagree:
The more aggressive the pads, the more grip you need from the tires.

I don't think you would need anymore than what has been recommended unless you are running a true racing tire like Hoosiers.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Did a track day on Monday in 95 degree weather - 130mph straightaway hard on the brakes for 6 20 min sessions, never had any fade. I'm running carbotech xp10/8 pads, stilen brake ducting, have the titanium backing plates, stainless lines and motul rbf 600 fluid. Finally think I have the brake setup down right, if that helps at all.

that is great to hear, since I am chasing the same problem. What are the Titanium backing plates, and who makes them for the Z

thanks

I keep getting brake shudder while on track...any others with this issue?

Setup:
2014 Sport, XP10/8, Blank Rotors, RBF600, Steel Brake lines, on RE-11 Tires.

I tend to be hard on the brakes and have been coached to not brake as late and aggressive. Front rotors replaced 3 times in an effort to correct the issue; stock rear rotors still.

It has been suggested to me to try different pad company.

Thoughts, suggestions, comments?

I have had this in the past when I went to Endless ME20 pad compound. My brake specialist suggested that it was due to the interaction between the pad deposits from my road pads affecting the bedding and operation of the ME20 pads which are an endurance race compound.
I went back to using a fast road pad front and rear (Project Mu HC+ or Ferodo DS2500) all the time and the problem went way. Byproduct is lots of dust though
What pads are in the car for Daily usage ?? I suspect the shudder is coming from the interaction between DD pads and XP10/8 combo on track and maybe it might work if you use a Carbotech DD pad if there is such a thing (I'm in Australia and not familiar with that brand of pad material)

Yes, Carbotech has a street pad. Xp 1520 from what I remember.

Yes, I am using the Carbotech DD pad (1520)...where the compounds are compatible as per carbotech. I am sticking with pure Carbotech and switching between the 1520 and XP10...and still experiencing the issue. I just wonder if the excessive heat is still causing the problem. I am considering switching Pad companies all together...but Carbotech seems to be very popular here with the 370z community.

I would check your braking habits. Do you cause pad deposit's by your driving style? Our cars brakes are pretty good about not warping rotors unless you have some bad habits.

Braking habits may be it...but not sure I would know if my habits are the cause. While on track I do brake late and very hard...at times of hitting ABS with RE-11 tires.

Nothing wrong with braking like that if you want to run lower lap times, you just need to find the max brake force you can apply without the ABS kicking in, and upsetting the chassis. If you are worried about your pads and rotors lasting longer then what your instructor is telling you is good advice.

If your brakes are hot and you're parking it; you need to make sure to rotate the wheels occasionally to prevent rotor warping too.