Voodoo13 rear camber arms and Nismo sway bars?
 

Curious if anyone has the Voodoo rear camber bars on their Nismo or car equipped with Nismo sway bars. They don't have a bend in them so I've heard they will not work with aftermarket bars as they may hit. I don't plan on switching out my swaybars and I'm lowered about .9" in the front, .7" in the rear (so not much). Just want to make sure they'll work with the Nismo bars as they're obviously larger than the base/sport bars.

Really need to get traction with acceleration in control. I do a whole lot of spinning in the first three gears despite no tune and not really having any more hp than stock. The car has been like that since day one, even with new tires (Bridgestone RE-050A). Hasn't gotten any better with coilovers or an alignment. Given there's minimal adjustment, I figure anything I can do to optimize alignment will be beneficial. I was trying to go without swapping out the traction links for toe.

I also plan on upgrading to a wider wheel and tire all around and having the dealership check and see if my VLSD is actually doing anything at all. The new Q60RS has more traction than I do (and LOTS more torque). So something is amiss.

Just buy SPL, don't waste any time with Voodoo

I see that typed a lot but looking for a solid reason to spend an extra $100 when I don't track the car. Other than the bend, 5they seem to be functionally the same. If I don't need the end to clear the sway bar, I can put the money elsewhere. If it's a functional compromise and they'll hit the sway, then yes I'd get the SPL.

I don't track either. Quality is quality.

When you sell them you'll make your money back, it's difficult to sell Voodoos... And $100 more? Find a better vendor, try calling Kyle at Imports Parts Pro.

Still think it's overkill, move back to SPC, and use some lock tite if you want. And you'll get toe bolts too.

From what I'm reading, both use high quality races, NCT or QA1. Both are made in the U.S.A. and the SPL's seem to have more locking redundancy. I'll contact Kyle, he had a very good price on the SPL front upper arms.

I'm not convinced the extra engineering will make a difference which is why I'm looking for information as to just what makes them higher quality outside of sway bar clearance.

Shop around for SPL. You can get deals. Kamispeed won my business.

Yeah they have the best price I've found so far via the weekend sales. Going to wait for Kyle to respond since he's semi-local and a forum supporter.

So am I understanding this right, you want camber arms to help with wheel spin? So are you thinking you have too much - camber and therefore not enough tire contact causing your wheel spin? If so what is your actual camber? At .7 I'm thinking you could at least get to -2.4 which is I think right on edge of spec? Can your coilovers go higher (to oem) just to verify that is your issue before spending all the money on camber arms?

Yes and no. I've had horrible wheel spin issues since day one of owning the car, brand new Bridgestone's, (245/40/19 on the rear), completely stock car. I went and had the alignment checked and it was in spec. I then swapped in the Aragostas and noticed an ever so slight improvement (really more able to control the slide before the VDC kicks in). I'm lowered .9 in front, .7 rear so technically, I should not need camber arms as I should be able to get it in spec.

My front tires are now gone on the inner edge, in six months, and I most likely could have gone another four months before replacing if the alignment had been better. Aftermarket upper control arms have already been ordered as I'm not replacing tires every six months. I don't know if it's a camber or a toe issue. I do not have a good suspension/alignment shop and no one with corner weight scales. I've set the shocks to Aragosta's recommended height as a result. I have a highway jaunt at least five days a week, 25 miles or so.

My rear tires are wearing far more evenly. But the traction issues still persist.

I'm pulling the trigger on new wheels, 19x9.5 and will run 255 series Michelin PSS's. I know they'll help a bit based on reports from other owners switching out the OEM Bridgestones. They're about 3/10th taller than the OEM rear wheels so I'll be able to drop the car ever so slightly from where it sits now.

My real reason for purchasing is that I want to be able to optimize the alignment and not have it compromised by my ride height (as modest as it is) and try to determine the best alignment balance between cornering and acceleration (straight line and coming out of corner). It's a 7AT. I can switch to manual, slide into second gear and floor it. It'll just spin the tires up. Pretty much the same in third. No wheel hop. Car handles fine otherwise. For toe, I guess the traction bars are the solution as I don't want to use the toe bolts and elongate the slot. Plus they slip.

Here's a chart (it's a little hard to read) from my last alignment after installing the dampers and lowering the ride height:
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...ps5i70p8bd.jpg

I have two power adders and no tune currently as I don't see the point until I get my traction issues under control. A Corolla would own me off the line. So something's not right. I just need to figure out what.

Edit: I've also messed with tire pressure front and rear.

You need a better limited slip rearend. End of story. I know exactly what you are feeling. Not sure what your G37 has, VLSD or open diff. No matter, they are both terrible. I would suggest a Wavetrac or Quaiffe.

It's the VLSD. That isn't what I want to hear! :).

Basically what I have is your Nismo with 12" more wheelbase, two back seats and 400 extra pounds :) Sway bars and spring rates are the same although it appears the Nismo dampers are more firm than the IPL's dampers.

In short, I'd be better off spending money on the LSD vs new wheels, tires and camber arms? I'd really like to use the Wavetrac but that'll require swapping pumpkins out for an open diff pumpkin I believe.

Z1 motorsports is your friend. Take a look. They have an assortment. Pick your poison. Turn off VDC and you can see what is going on. The VLSD will do the one wheel wonder on you with the quickness. With VDC on, it masks the issue by applying the brakes.

Looking at your angles I'm actually surprised there are that good for a .9/.7 drop mine oem height (maybe my springs sagged) were 1 deg front and 1.5 rear both neg of course and I haven't checked alignment since installing my powertrix but set the height only .25 lower than I was so not sure where I am at now but need to check soon. So a -1.3 and -1.6 isn't really bad, I'm surprised they wore so quick but I think the 0 toe didn't help as that is 0 static toe and factory wants some + toe so that could be that it becomes less when driving (dynamic toe) most fronts for rear drive will go to a less angle while driving.

As for traction I have oem size with potenza so4 tires, 7at, stock vlsd, ecutek and I can't say I have a whole lot of issue with wheel spin, granted I don't really drag race but in turn exit etc it hasn't been bad. Maybe not the best way but if you did an ecutek tune you can use the racerom traction control to help control wheel slip, cost a lot less then a diff and you'll want it don't eventually anyway.

Yeah I've often heard toe will kill tires faster than camber. Bottom set are the new numbers after alignment, top numbers are with the Aragostas installed for a week. I'd think with zero toe there'd be less wear? How is toe adjusted up front? Already has an eccentric? Despite being under there all the time I never really looked.