lmao crap I'm working on my cart for an order at Z1 and I see this thread.

From what I'm making out, there's otherwise a void in where this mounts (just pins). Was there typically supposed to be an OEM part issued with the Nismo or RC?

I contacted Z1. It is currently only for LHD.

I basically registered to figure out how to install the damn thing. I have a G37, but have confirmed that it fits. I just can't get the bolts in.

Anyone have any other neat tricks other than removing the brake master cylinder and booster?

Just got mine in...and I'm in the same camp. Just can't get the bolts at the right angle to start threading in. It's pretty damn tight in there. I say that as a person with longish skinny fingers. Doesnt help my Z is black cherry so it's also dark.

Seems like the "recommended" tools is more like completely necessary tools. I'm short of the uniball bit but it seems like a 4" extension could also fare better than a 6" because my tool hits the brake booster. Tempted for the master cylinder to be pulled, but I'm pretty sure the end bit makes the difference for the Z at least.

Lol this really is supposed to be simple otherwise.

Reading these is making me worried about installing mine..

Ball joint bit didn't work, all I could pick up is a 6". Really, getting this done is just a matter of tool geometry.

If it's not the brake booster, it's the lines to the master in the way of getting the right angle for threading.

Use a length of semi-flexible hose that fits tightlyover the end of the nut to thread it on. Won't be able to tighten it, but you'll be able to get it on!

I'll probably give that a shot as I can't imagine how I'll get the further bolts in. Might try a swivel head first per the other thread on this forum.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll be ordering one!!

Finally got mine installed...pretty much. I could only get the first two bolts in. The furthest one is just has too many obstructions for me to work around. Basically should be enough, as the brace sits flush on the curved profile of the chassis so it's not like there's a serious case of leverage against the bolts when the master cylinder pushes back.

My procedure/recommendations (not entirely DIY thread worthy; can't post pics):
1. Remove the cover and surrounding of the brake compartment per Z1's instructions. Also remove the brake booster hose at the booster end and angle it away (rest it on the silver line.. You need every bit of space.

2. Prepare: Ratchet tool + 6" head extension + swivel + 5mm Allen bit with painter's tape. Place the bolt on and it should stick on that bit pretty snugly. I went with a 3/8" drive because it seemed to work during my tool test routing, but would recommend to go with a 1/4" drive so there's more wiggle room.

I don't think a uniball bit is actually all that necessary. Regular cut aligned just fine for me, and probably better when applying torque. I don't recommend a magnetic tip, because you may end up getting stuck to the hard lines and anything else in there.

Also prepare the brace with the bolt and jam nut. Screw that as far in as you can (don't actually tighten, though). Again, it allows for more movement during the install.

3. Practice how you'll feed the tool+bolt and brace separately. Each to their own with fingers. I fed my tool between the hard lines, with my fingers able to hold the swivel head at an angle as I'd feed it into the brace hole.

4. I targeted the closest bolt (towards the driver fender) hole first because it was easiest to see the bolt feed into the hole. Have the bolt feed through the brace hole, then the threaded chassis hole.

This is pretty much key step. Much easier said than done for almost anyone. My 3/8" drive swivel head had me working at different angles with each turn since it has little space to rotate.

5. Once you successfully fed in that bolt, thread in only about half way so the brace can be re-positioned, then go for threading into the middle bolt hole. Same path as I described before. This should be way easier, but my tool setup was hitting the brake booster studs so I had to keep working around until I got a few turns in.

6. Adjust bolt+jam nut against master. Make sure it's pretty snug on there before working the jam nut. My final position was very similar to what was in Z1's instructions. If you don't have a slim enough wrench, finger tight should work. Bolt isn't going to be spinning when pressed against the master. If you could pull out the booster hose (without destroying it), you could definitely tighten the jam nut well enough. That being said, don't forget to put put the hose back in.

Most of my time was spent sorting out my tool and feed strategy. Had I known what would work off the bat, yeah, it is a 30min job or even less. Would've been smoother with lower profile tools.

Edit: Flexible hose approach as suggested before could be an idea. Would've tried it if I was still unsuccessful. There are those bendable driver extensions but I thought the local offerings (as in Home Depot/Husky) were too stiff to actually make the tight turns needed. That'd probably require feeding behind the hard lines.

I know there's 90 degree adapters, which could be awesome, or just not fit in there either.
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As far as perception goes, I didn't have a second person to take a look at the before/after movement of the master, but I'd expect it to be the case as this pretty much happens with any other car's hydraulic brake setup.

Careful way to put it is that the brace doesn't necessarily help with response. Initial bite still happens at the same point for me (as I'd expect), but the brace limited the softening feel when doing legitimate extended, hard braking (50+% application) from higher speeds. There is more noticeable shudder, but I believe that's from the rotors/pads. If anything it's probably telling that the pedal force application is more consistently linear, with the brace installed.

So you can say the response at that point — and perhaps the braking performance overall — is better, but I don't think the mod is entirely worth it for the street unless you really start doing things you shouldn't. Like at most, you'd probably appreciate it during some panic braking on the highway.

I'm still wondering what's supposed to occupy those threaded holes in the chassis otherwise.

Ok think I'll be passing on this part.

Bought this because its cheap and I was already ordering something else.

Absolutely nowhere on the product page does it state LHD only, nor even in the instruction manual. Very disappointed

Lesson learnt I guess. Didn't realise the engine bays are different in RHD

Edit: I was going to write a review on the page to warn people but my account apparently no longer exists

I don't mean to be "that guy", but I feel like this is one of those things you should've checked before buying. It was noted on a previous post here, and you could've looked inside the brake compartment.


Small update: I really want to gamble with getting that last stupid bolt in, but otherwise it's been doing its job. Just nice to have, though nothing like "wow thank god I put this in".

Another Update 2 months later since last version of this post: Bolts never came lose or anything since the initial mounting. Brace still feels rigid.

Sort of bringing this thread back from the dead. I just installed my brace and had a similar issue of only being able to get two of the three bolts in, but for me I got the upper and lower ones. The middle bolt didn’t seem to quite line up properly, there are marks on my brace from the screw grinding on it as it tried to thread so I bailed on that middle bolt.

As far as the main bolt and jam nut, do you guys think more or less finger tight is okay? I only had access to a normal length 19mm wrench, I snugged the bolt as best I could by hand against the master cylinder, and was only able to maybe get a quarter turn with the wrench on the jam nut after finger tightening it before the angles didn’t allow me to go any further with the wrench. Want to see what you all think.

Got all 3 bolts in mine. Try and just the jam nut tighter. You will have to flip-flop the wrench around to do it. And take baby bits.